kurthicks

it just seems to me that with such important events going on, there might be things that took presidence over logging onto cc. alternately, I understand how this can be a stress release.

but you have time and desire to spray?!

billcoe, I'll be there with CKouba if you need a partner for something. PM me if you're interested.

Surely a bummer, but perhaps mother nature is saying something.

not me

We saw that tree on Saturday too. It looks like it fell quite recently. We rapped off a smaller slung tree off to the left of the last step. I think the tree halfway up Hangover will suffer the same fate relatively soon. Double check your anchors before using them, even if they are huge trees!

just burn everything to DVD, add 512 ram or more (just make sure that all the sticks of ram are of the same size), and reformat the original drive. if that doesn't fix it then buy a new drive. The ram is likely a culprit if the processor is 2.8ghz IMO. what is the speed of the hard drive? 5400? 7200?

Booty! Nice to meet you. I'll let you know when I'm coming back over. No Land of the lost for us -- I was too pumped after doing Dielectric to consider leading anything else for a little while.

stop being lazy and be stoked

Climb: 21 Hours in Hyalite- Dielectric, Over Easy, G2, Hangover, Lower Greensleeves Date of Climb: 11/4/2006 Trip Report: With the horrendous weather forecast, Matt (NYC007) and I decided to escape the northwest by heading to Hyalite…for the day. After driving the 400 miles on Friday from Spokane we arrived at the trailhead in the dark. We were psyched as we could see a bunch of routes illuminated by the full moon. Soon we were packed up and off to the Genesis area. G1 was lean and very wet, so we did Lower Greensleeves to start the season…by headlamp. After a couple laps we decided to call it a night, but apparently Matt still needed a little more of a pump. Matt getting some last minute training in. We got up at 6am and were soon chatting with locals about conditions. We decided to head up to the Corner Climbs to do some mixed stuff, but they were out of condition. Eventually we ended up in the Slot Corner area. We started on Over Easy, a nice WI3 that led to a manky bolt anchor. Curtains was a sketchy pillar, so we skipped it. Me leading Over Easy Then I went looking for other climbs up there and I soon found Dielectric Breakdown, mistaking it for Slot Corner (which isn’t in). A party was just finishing it up and the route looked great. After they were down, I lead up. Pumpy, but easier at WI5 instead of 5+ like the guide suggests. Highly recommended! Me leading a fat Dielectric Breakdown With daylight to spare we headed back to the parking lot, grabbed some food, and headed up to G2. Matt lead the driest line up the center to a tree belay below the top step since the ice wasn’t very good up top. Matt leading G2. We finished the day on Hangover (still quite thin) and got back to the car at dark. Uneventful driving, did I mention that the road is almost entirely snow free?!, got us to Bozeman and I-90. 400 more miles home… The climbs won't last long if these warm temperatures keep up. Lots of stuff fell down yesterday. Hope everyone had a good weekend in the gym! Gear Notes: Ice gear Approach Notes: Subaru. Very little snow on the road

Well done gentlemen. pictures?

looks like a good time. perhaps I should be more specific...any photos of the NF of Colfax with the ice routes?

nice! Any photos of Colfax?

Thanks Donn! Good to see you're getting out!

Copper falls, Chilco Falls, Wizard Drips, Pyramid lake Falls... all in northern Idaho. Sadly, your best bet for good panhandle ice is Gibralter Wall, in BC.

New Testing from BD Thanks Kolin!

That's a sweet new route Mark. I look at that face every time I'm up there, wondering if a route would go and why it hasn't...now it has.

holy beta overload batman! Nice format though. oh, Givler's Crack is not also known as Classic Crack.

sorry. no can do now anyways.

just for the day or for sat/sun?

There is very minimal avalanche hazard in the South Fork, but there can be windblown pockets in some drainages. You can also camp for free out in the canyon at the campgrounds. A little cold at night, but the price is right... For those willing to drive every day, the Holiday Inn in Cody has an "ice climbers special" where you can sleep 4 people in a room for $40/night. Get ready for some steep routes!

no, but it should be. perhaps this will inspire the engineering types (i'm only an armchair engineer) to do more thorough testing.

edit: I guess it's already done. nevermind.

I took some time last night to try and repeat this failure. Test procedure: We placed an anchor consisting of 2 cams into a concrete crack and equalized them. I then took 2 slings that have been on my rack, one mammut 8mm that is about 1.5 years old and one Metolius sling (that appears to be the same as Sherman's) that was found on the Stuart Glacier. The skinny sling was then girth hitched to the Metolius sling in the same configuration as the sling that failed. The Metolius sling was clipped to the master point while the skinny sling was clipped to my harness. I then conducted approximately 20 severe bounces on the sling by climbing the crack and dropping back down onto the sling. The force was much more than I can ever recall putting onto a rappel anchor. I weight about 145lbs and had no additional equipment on me during the test. The approximate FF was at most .5 onto a static system. Results: The sling did not fail under these test conditions. Upon undoing the girth hitch, the 8mm Mammut sling had suffered from melting/fusing at the point of the girth hitch. This occurred on the inside of the hitch where the two slings had the greatest surface area. The skinny sling now has hard and soft spots where the girth hitch was tied AND where the biner clipped to my harness was. The Metolius had some shiny spectra fibers, indicating that it too had melted/fused during the test. Analysis: While not a scientific test, this anecdotal evidence seems to reinforce the concerns regarding the low melting point of spectra/dyneema material. As always, be aware of the limitations of your equipment, inspect it closely on a regular basis, and retire it before you think it is necessary. Mammut Sling Post-Test click on the image to see circled areas of deformation though they didn't come out well in the photo.

My of choice tonight.