kurthicks

owner found. it's being used as a lowering anchor for a hard redpoint attempt. now i just have to see him send the 5.13c!

pub club? :brew:

didn't get it. I'll shoot you an e-mail.

I should be around up there climbing both days, pending the weather. PM me if you want.

the only wording on them is "Taiwan."

I did a public service and took down an "anchor" from the Metolius Ladder down at Granite Point today. You can have it back so long as you won't use unrated Taiwanese snaplinks as components in your anchors in the future. Not that a lot of people are capable of sending that route (5.12), but the gear could have easily been picked up by a newbie and considered to be an acceptable system to use, which it is definately not. The only thing that this "anchor" may have had going for it was use of the sliding/magic X, but given that if one snaplink failed the shockload would surely blow the other one, why even bother with the X?

what if a route can not accept any gear placements, has a long history of not being bolted, and TRing is the only option? is it OK then or are we expected to free solo and trail a rope for the descent?

If it's dry, whatever comes from the Goodwill for $2 will suffice. You're just going to trash them anyways.

from playing with it, Gimmick. it can't be compressed since the fabric and roll top prevent air from being squeezed out of it. a decent option for trips where you need to compress a large sleeping bag and have a light summit pack (maybe Denali?). second the comments about Cilogear. their packs are sweet. You might also look into the Arcteryx ski packs, which were basically a climbing pack before (Khamsin, etc). Spendy, but pretty nice.

nice work gents. Looks like stuff is still good at the Pass.

shants... good one.

I didn't know that the Mountaineers taught bouldering, but after seeing the shorts over polypro I guess they do.

good advice. I find that the precip is usually inadequate for anything other than short squalls as it wets out pretty fast (but it dries fast too). My Grade VI stays dry in the multiday rain on Baker...and it allows my wet underlayers to dry out, even while it's raining.

The optional OW on Angel Crest looks like fun.

I know the US distributor. I will ask to play around with them and let you know what I find out. Their stoppers are pretty good, IMO, with a little longer cable for out of reach placements.

boot axe belays have to be done perfectly to hold a fall, even when used in a dynamic belay. use a different belay method to ensure your safety if you are at all concerned with falling.

I thought the Cotter route was between backbone & serpentine, finishing up the huge LF corner on the right edge of the fin.

hit them with a file and take care of that protrusion. then you can poilet canne/manche more effectively since it doesn't hurt your hand to push down.

if car insurance doesn't, some renter's insurance covers equipment in vehicles. Mine covers around $3000, I think.

glad it's working for someone. they can take solace in knowing that i can't recall taking any huge whippers on it or beating it up too much.

yes Yes. still there, I take it?

opening 2007: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades. March, 2007 Pass Status: CLOSED - The pass is closed between milepost 134 (east of Diablo) and milepost 177.5 (at Early Winters, which is two miles west of Mazama). - We will start plowing and blowing snow off the highway by March 26. - We estimate it will take five to six weeks to clear all the snow off the pass. We hope to have the pass open by mid-May.

not to mention that the temps for rock adventures down there are great right now. One could easily do Lee Vining one day and sport climb the next. the downside is that The Pit now costs $2/night and that the slackline is no more.

I was in Rome at the put in two nights ago on my way back from Bishop & Death Valley. I was thinking of all the bullet stone down the canyon whilst fading off to sleep to the sound of the cows across the river and the sparkle of the stars. Looks great!