kurthicks

do they offer any compensation (i.e. new cams) for this? I had a trigger wire fail in Red Rocks last November and it wasn't due to any error/old age/damage on my part. as a result of it's placement and small size it was impossible to remove it, even when on rappel with two nut tools.

Apparently you were wrong, again. I don't know which is worse A) the safety/sanity of your climbing adventures or B)you deciding to post all of your near death experiences online so that when you get seriously hurt everyone will say "I told you so." regardless, I will be heading down to Granite Point after school/work a lot now. let me know if you want to learn how to build anchors and place gear. No lead climbing, however.

It'll get the big test this fall when it does the Sierra/Red Rocks circuit. Some shorter trips before that when I have time. It will be my humble abode from May onward though. She gets 17MPG on a grossly overloaded 4cyl 22re engine and does 75 pretty well on the flats. Sleeps 4, has a bathroom, kitchen, furnace, dinette w/2 chairs and a table, fridge, DVD player, etc... Total cost...well, we'll see when I'm done getting her into top form--it should be just more than my student loans (about 8K all said and done)!

the previa not as big, sweet, or cheap for use as a dirtbag mobile. the last 2 (or 3) model years were 4wd also. nothing really compares to my new approach vehicle though. She's waiting for her first climbing trip after gunning her way past Moab, Arches, Canyonlands, SLC, and The City on her maiden voyage to the Palouse from New Mexico!

as stated: flash memory (preferably with card add-on compatibility), AA or AAA batteries (bring lithium), and an FM reciever. I use a sandisk and have been happy there and elsewhere. You can get 'em cheap online and get 1gb cards (one for each genre of music or playlist) for less and $20 each. plus, if you run out of card space on your camera, you can format a music card and have more storage space.

'core!

the PC (and everything that it enables, empowers, and represents) is the problem.

It's already in there with the description to "the less wardens the better." When I went it was full of drunk high school kids and we had to sit in the coldest pool. perhaps it's better on a weeknight.

it happens to me too. Fortunately, I found 2 new climbs today that, if it gets a little colder again, will be climbable enough to convince me to continue the winter suffering a little longer.

This can definately occur in avalanche accidents http://www.backcountrysafety.com/a_heuristic_traps_in_accidents.php http://snowpit.com/articles/traps%20reprint.pdf

you might want to add "Professional Purchase (Pro Deal)" to the second poll.

If you are willing to learn, then I am willing to teach.

Dogs are aid.

I know Jamin. He is not a troll. He has been a transient participant in the WSU Alpine Club for this academic year, learning of the club from pup_on_the_mountain with whom he climbed Dome Peak with this past summer. The following discussion is intended to make other cc.comers aware of the considerations and concerns that I have regarding Jamin so that they are not caught unaware of him. Jamin has exhibited a constant disinterest towards learning even the most basic climbing concepts, skills/technique, and resources for improving his climbing safety; he believes that he is capable of reinventing the wheel when it comes to these areas. He has also repeatedly shown a disregard (perhaps distrust is a better word) for people who have higher levels of experience, formal training, and judgement that he currently possesses. An Alpine Club discussion of avalanche terrain analysis, travel, and rescue technique is a great example. Rather an simply realizing that there is danger (real or perceived, implicit or explicit, subjective or objective) when travelling in the mountains in winter, he tried to justify his decision to not take avalanches seriously and to never carry an avalanche beacon based on the "only 30 people die per year in avalanches--so my odds are very small" and that "they weigh 8oz and only have one use" arguements. On the only trip I have participated with him on, he tried to convince me that it was a good idea for him to lead climb WI4- ice after his very first top roped ice climb (on which he pumped out and had to hang on the rope repeatedly). Disaster was eminanent. Needless to say, I respect Jamin for his enthusiasm and drive to go climbing...but I can not bring myself (nor put myself in any situation where it might occur) to climb with him at this time. Simply put, he is too great of a risk. Until he is able and willing to admit his hubris -- take a step back, re-evaluate his "climbing", and take steps to further his own safe development, I would not recommend that anyone go climbing with him. Jamin -- Please take climbing seriously. It can, and often does, kill those who don't respect it.

I have done a few of the West Face routes. pretty fun. It's wierd how they're bolted as 2-3 pitch routes when a single 60 gets you to the top... the few I did felt in the 5.10 range. the righthand most line (starts as 5.8 bolts to an anchor) that pulls the big roof is still unclimbed from what I heard, but it was apparent to me that if I did more situps it wouldn't be that hard. probably mid/hard 11.

Generally when one is "practicing" lead climbing, it is done on top rope. The "leader" places gear and clip a line that you are trailing into that gear, all while protected from decking by the top rope. Without a top rope, you are actually lead climbing--with all of the potential for accidents/injury/death that come along with leading. The only trad route that anyone does at Granite is Layback Crack, which goes at 5.6 and primarily takes 2-3" gear...the exception being the topout which can take a decent size stopper. Was this it J-dawg? Did you get some rock shoes or what? oh, be sure to practice placing lots of gear on the ground (or on top rope) and bounce test them to get the idea if your gear will actually hold. I would also recommend finding someone who is willing to let you follow lots of pitches (with a nut tool and something to hammer on it with) to let you get more experience retrieving gear. There is a small blasted outcrop near the big paved pullout at Granite that has some decent cracks to practice on or walk up the hill to the decent basalt (10 minutes) and set some in the cracks you'll find up there.

it did end up looking something like that.

NYC & I will be down there tonight. not staying at the grasslands though. See ya'll tomorrow. blue suby, draw the sheep on it.

yes.

right in the babymaker! So who's going to be there?

I saw some ice from the freeway immediately north of Thorp the other day. It was south facing on cliffs that are on the north side of the river. anyone know about this stuff?

clownpunchers only? what about donkeypunchers?

soon to be my approach vehicle of choice if all works out ok. mine won't have an A/C on it, nor the pinstripes. 16mpg, sleeps 4. likely selling "the blue subaru" to get a commuter car that gets 40mpg-ish.

that left facing dihedral/slab was all ice last winter. If it freezes again up there, it might be huge. you're right about wandering a little further left, but those routes have less ice and more snow from what I could see. The whole mountain seems to be a late winter jaunt, coming in the best shape right before it warms up for good.

Posted in access too, but I got this in my inbox... Any parking lots or roads that you want plowed in the winter? My take is to get them to plow stuff so we can access the existing ice and alpine easier. Imagine the road to strobach being plowed... ------ The Washington State Winter Recreation Program is developing a strategic plan for the future. At the moment it does not include any climbing. As a member of the Advisory Committee I believe we can have great ice climbing for our citizens in the winter. I have seen other states where water is sprayed on the sides of canyons to have ice climbing parks. It needs your input to figure out where these could be. It needs your input as to where Sno-Parks would be needed for winter climbing. Take a look at: http://www.parks.wa.gov/winter/strategy.asp and give them your comments. Please let your members and other climbing interests know that now is the time for them to point the strategic planner in the direction of where their interests would be served. Every May grants from the program are given for groups who wish to develop winter recreation in Washington. In the past these have included Nordic skiing clubs for grooming trails and building centers and snowmobile clubs for building extensive trails across the state. It has included dog sleders for special trails and Sno-Parks. I do not believe we have ever had a request from climbing interests. The grant forms will be online in March. A coalition of climbing clubs who could mobilize volunteers and matching monies could do great things in the state. If you have any questions or I can be of help please contact me at: Michael Gruskin MGruskin@hotmail.com T: 206.612.2525