Go down the east ridge. From the CJ Col, look for this feature. Follow the heather ramp that goes almost all the way to the top (~1500' gain), then descent solid rock down the backside to the glacier, down the Cascade (?) Arm, and back to the pass. easy and safe, once you're off the Ridge.
The rescue was definitely a sight to see. Just to clarify, he basically fell down the slope directly above/behind the top of the fixed lines down to the Peters. There are no rocks on that slope, just snow and ice, upon which he was unable to self arrest. a cartwheeling situation landed him into a crack where he opened up his jacket, pulled out a sat phone (that was somehow not in his pack, which was ripped off and yard saled), and called 911. it also happens that he landed next to a tent that had blown down from 17k a couple days before; he wrapped it around himself until the NPS got there. Super lucky...
I just spent a week there. here are some pictures if you're interested. going back on Sunday, so shoot me a PM if you're in town already.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kurt.hicks/AAIARAMLittleSwitzerland
Good news. Someone was arrested on an unrelated felony charge in Alaska on Monday...with my sleeping bag (and other identifiable items). good to see justice served once in a while. he's going to have numerous felony charges against him.
no sign of the bibler or camera stuff. to paraphrase the police officer "I wouldn't hold out much hope for the Creedence (camera)"
I saw a guy* break a BD Rage at Haffner about five years ago. It snapped off about half way down the shaft. he promptly finished soloing his route (the WI3/4 on the left) with one tool.
*turns out that guy was Ian Welsted.
I know that it was likely taken by some homeless person or a meth head, but these were stolen from my vehicle in bellingham:
Western Mountaineering Bison (-35F) Sleeping Bag. Blue goretex dryloft shell
Bibler Eldorado tent, 2 door, green. small patched hole near one of the corners.
Sony Digital Camcorder DSC-H40 model.
Please email/PM if seen.
at least the battery was dead in my RV so they couldn't steal it...which they tried to do judging from the carnage around the steering column.
I put a regular hammer on one of my Cobras(thus far) for this reason (and to make pounding pins easier). There is a noticable swing difference between the micro hammer/adze and the full size hammer. it gives the tool a more head heavy feel, which I appreciate on such a lightweight tool.
Graybeard, Cutthroat (cauthorn-wilson), Colonial, Baker North Ridge, Baker Coleman HW, Stuart Glacier Couloir, Dragontail (cotter-bebie, Triple Couloirs), Eldorado NE Face & NW Face couloir...just to name a few.
For those of you still chasing ice, the Baker Ski Area still has it. Pan Dome, East Table Three, Death Picnic, and other assorted lines are all still in. most look pretty blue--almost Canadian.