kurthicks

That's how I know it Wayne. From what I hear, this cold snap was more like how it was long ago. The couple times I went back in there it was just an unprotectable egg shell. Sure it may have been done back in the '70s, but yours is the first known ascent as far as I know. I seem to recall asking the local historian (Crock) and he didn't know anything about it... congrats. I'm jealous and stoked for you and Beau.

I grew up on the Umpqua. too bad those routes went up after i left! Might have to check it out if I'm ever there again, looks good!

I didn't tell many people... I was up on the Fisher Chimneys for an AMGA course, on the Upper Curtis, when I rode a huge serac (school bus sized) about 20'. I landed almost entirely on my left leg just before the rope caught me. Simply terrifying. My friends hauled me out and I hobbled out to the car. Not exactly a fun day in my book!

took a 20 footer into a glacier on Shuksan...tore two ligaments. got engaged. itching to finish PT and get back out there.

They form from meltwater off the glacier...I'd guess they're in every year.

Yep, I've never heard of an ascent, but have indeed skinned back in there before. Nice work guys. Sorry Wayne, I should have mentioned that gem to ya!

apart from the rock, that looks like the approach to Grotto Falls in Canmore. looks like fun!

nice. I've looked at those in the past, but couldn't justify going up there in winter without being able to drive the road.

it's like stealing a cowboy's horse; you just don't do it. hope you get them back pheeel.

Tres bien Gaston!

looks like an incredible line Craig.

maybe that couloir on TFJ? There are more than a few falls between Middle Sis and Broken Top if you know where to look. Brutal approach this time of year, even if they might be FAs.

Try PMing "pup_on_the_mountain". He and I did a bunch of stuff when I was out there. You might find some stuff along the Snake River, but I don't know if it's been cold enough yet. about 30 minutes out of town. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/637328/Searchpage/4/Main/48095/Words/learning/Search/true/TR_Snake_River_Higher_Learning#Post637328

great work! is this the first "modern" mixed pitch in the Gorge?

i'd assume the amount of insulation necessary would directly correlate to the rate of flow and the diameter of the pipe.

from what I've heard: use large diameter pipe as the small stuff freezes relatively quickly. once your pipe freezes, you have to find a way to drag it back to a warm place and thaw it. bummer.

Gotta get Hogan to smile once in a while in photos! Looks like a fun day out Gents!

The east coast isn't in yet this year, it's been too warm. It should be good in another couple weeks, hopefully. it's great when it's in though. Highly recommended! yes, you could climb lines similar to PC every day up in Canada, pending the avy forecast. PC is a long route, but there are tons of other things that are 300m or more. Get "Waterfall Ice" by Joe Josephson... if you're looking to go cheaply, Cody or Hyalite are easier places to camp (even though the nights can be mighty cold). The RCMPs don't seem to like it when I bivy out on the Icefields Parkway.

Just say the word.

I looked into doing a trip there a while back. take your shoes and a chalkbag for sure. I'll look for the links that I used to have saved somewhere... http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/int/British_Virgin_Islands/241

I would too if I didn't only do it when I was working!

at alpenglowgear.com. good folks.

Don't forget about Banks Lake and the surrounding areas once it freezes.

Another way to break/slow a sled when traveling downhill is to tie a handful of overhand knots in a strand of cordelette that runs underneath the sled. I tie one strand from the front to the rear and flip it underneath when I'm headed down and all loaded up with weight. for particularly steep descents, tying the last guy's sled in front of him works pretty well. If there are two sleds, just flip one upside down and the other rightside up-- the resistance of the upside down sled cancels out non-braked sled's speed and, hence, walking downhill is usually pretty casual. YMMV. I think what hasn't been stated directly is that dragging a sled is a necessary evil at times, but isn't something you'll enjoy.