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Everything posted by kurthicks
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I grew up on the Umpqua. too bad those routes went up after i left! Might have to check it out if I'm ever there again, looks good!
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I didn't tell many people... I was up on the Fisher Chimneys for an AMGA course, on the Upper Curtis, when I rode a huge serac (school bus sized) about 20'. I landed almost entirely on my left leg just before the rope caught me. Simply terrifying. My friends hauled me out and I hobbled out to the car. Not exactly a fun day in my book!
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took a 20 footer into a glacier on Shuksan...tore two ligaments. got engaged. itching to finish PT and get back out there.
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[TR] FAs: Mt. Baker - Roosevelt Ice Circ 12/10/2009
kurthicks replied to shannonpahl's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
They form from meltwater off the glacier...I'd guess they're in every year. -
[TR] Elk River, ID- ER Falls and Mixed (fa?) - Upp
kurthicks replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Yep, I've never heard of an ascent, but have indeed skinned back in there before. Nice work guys. Sorry Wayne, I should have mentioned that gem to ya! -
[TR] FAs: Mt. Baker - Roosevelt Ice Circ 12/10/2009
kurthicks replied to shannonpahl's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
nice. I've looked at those in the past, but couldn't justify going up there in winter without being able to drive the road. -
it's like stealing a cowboy's horse; you just don't do it. hope you get them back pheeel.
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[TR] Mt Baker - Coleman-Demming Ski 12/10/2009
kurthicks replied to Gaston's topic in North Cascades
Tres bien Gaston! -
[TR] FA: "Gray Falls" - Ingalls Creek 12/10/2009
kurthicks replied to AlpineMonkey's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
looks like an incredible line Craig. -
maybe that couloir on TFJ? There are more than a few falls between Middle Sis and Broken Top if you know where to look. Brutal approach this time of year, even if they might be FAs.
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Try PMing "pup_on_the_mountain". He and I did a bunch of stuff when I was out there. You might find some stuff along the Snake River, but I don't know if it's been cold enough yet. about 30 minutes out of town. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/637328/Searchpage/4/Main/48095/Words/learning/Search/true/TR_Snake_River_Higher_Learning#Post637328
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great work! is this the first "modern" mixed pitch in the Gorge?
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i'd assume the amount of insulation necessary would directly correlate to the rate of flow and the diameter of the pipe.
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from what I've heard: use large diameter pipe as the small stuff freezes relatively quickly. once your pipe freezes, you have to find a way to drag it back to a warm place and thaw it. bummer.
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[TR] Snoqualmie Peak - Calvin Klimb 12/3/2009
kurthicks replied to DetachedFlake's topic in North Cascades
Gotta get Hogan to smile once in a while in photos! Looks like a fun day out Gents! -
The east coast isn't in yet this year, it's been too warm. It should be good in another couple weeks, hopefully. it's great when it's in though. Highly recommended! yes, you could climb lines similar to PC every day up in Canada, pending the avy forecast. PC is a long route, but there are tons of other things that are 300m or more. Get "Waterfall Ice" by Joe Josephson... if you're looking to go cheaply, Cody or Hyalite are easier places to camp (even though the nights can be mighty cold). The RCMPs don't seem to like it when I bivy out on the Icefields Parkway.
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[TR] Mt Shuksan - NW Couloir Climb and Ski Descent
kurthicks replied to Gaston's topic in North Cascades
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Just say the word.
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I looked into doing a trip there a while back. take your shoes and a chalkbag for sure. I'll look for the links that I used to have saved somewhere... http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/int/British_Virgin_Islands/241
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I would too if I didn't only do it when I was working!
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"Good Deals" brought to you by Alpinfox the Great
kurthicks replied to Alpinfox's topic in On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
at alpenglowgear.com. good folks. -
Don't forget about Banks Lake and the surrounding areas once it freezes.
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Another way to break/slow a sled when traveling downhill is to tie a handful of overhand knots in a strand of cordelette that runs underneath the sled. I tie one strand from the front to the rear and flip it underneath when I'm headed down and all loaded up with weight. for particularly steep descents, tying the last guy's sled in front of him works pretty well. If there are two sleds, just flip one upside down and the other rightside up-- the resistance of the upside down sled cancels out non-braked sled's speed and, hence, walking downhill is usually pretty casual. YMMV. I think what hasn't been stated directly is that dragging a sled is a necessary evil at times, but isn't something you'll enjoy.
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thanks Nick. that's what I was hoping to see!
