kurthicks

those overboots are notorious for crampons coming off of them. be extra cautious when attaching your 'pons if they are a lever/bail style. Full strap models seem to work better with them. 40 Below overboots are way better.

just got off the hill for my fifth time. here's what I used in this cold season: head: buff, wool hat, OR ninjaclava, Julbo explorers, goggles hands: OR gripper glove, BD Guide Glove, Marmot Expedition Mitten, handwarmers torso: Smartwool baselayer, First ascent windshirt, REI primaloft jacket, TNF softshell, MH absolute zero jacket legs: Patagonia baselayer, MH expedition weight tight, Patagonia simple guide pant, Marmot rain pants, MH compressor pant feet: Smartwool mountaineer socks, Sportiva Spantiks, 40 Below K2 overboots I wore everything simultaneously at one point (except the gloves), so make sure your layering system works well together. it is a system after all.

I heard some about the mechanism of failure with these. Apparently they are breaking when the load shifts out towards the gate at around 10-12kN. The plan is to beef up the gate/notch interface and re-start production as soon as possible.

if you're worried about avalanches, let me tell you something--if you trigger one, it will kill you. a beacon will do your partner no good, even for most body recoveries. drop it from your packing list.

ah, why did you have to change the title? it was funnier that way.

yea, I'd buy one Dane.

I want!

it's a little old. kind of retro-looking... ya know, vintage?

nice photo mikey!

Saw sold.

Spring cleaning time! I'm headed out of town on Tuesday morning, so things either have to go before then or after June 4, when I get back. Seattle area or buyer pays shipping. make me an offer if you think i'm way off base. I'm open to trades for the following items: Grivel compact 3rd tool w/pick, a wall hammer, small haul bag, hooks, or BD neve or serac crampons (strap). email for more pictures or to get in touch, kurt.hicksATgmail.com Sportiva Nuptses. OK condition; the top of one liner is scorched from drying over the stove. size 44.5. $150 MSR Dragonfly. Stove is brand new. pump is used and the plunger top is cracked on the edge. comes with expedition repair kit. bottle not included. $100 Black Diamond Venom ice axe. comes with standard and technical picks. used about 10 days. 50cm. some nicks in the shaft. $120 REI Flash 18L pack. one daisy chain separated. $10 SMC Summit Snow saw. good Denali saw, I've just got 2. brand new. $25 La Sportiva Speedster rock shoe. brand new. good for those hard projects! size 41.5. $100

and the harnesses? cost? lightweight!

say it isn't so!

snow on the top of the wall and likely on the descent. from the road it looks dry.

or use a bollard.

exactly. Let's not forget the cord-less V-thread trick for smaller diameter ropes. another good option for being low on cordage or slings. or the pillar thread (sling was used as our anchor before the rap):

I've used the retrievable ice screw before. It's best used where the angle goes from flat to steep on the rappel (say at the edge of a crevasse or waterfall pitch), compared to a uniform slope angle. I find it fast to set up and plenty strong if using a 22cm screw. Just loop your rope over the top of the screw (like it's doubled around a tree). Rap. Pull rope. an image of it in use: In this case, the cord was extended with a sling for a little more length. I've also set it up by attaching the cord to the rope with a prussik, thus eliminating the knot and carabiner.

Check out use of a skinny tag line in the 1940's! Check it at 2:38 in: http://www.mountaineers.org/history/notes/movie/mtneers-1940s-tumwater.html and how I do it. one can substitute "damaged rope" for tag line.

i'll take the tool if he doesn't

I was just up at Whitney Portal last week. We bailed after 3' of snow fell. There was snow all the way down to 5500' and mixed snow/rain all the way to Lone Pine. Still winter in those parts.

I've got a lightly used, no funk, Absolute Zero in size medium. Black. how does $350 sound (plus shipping if not in Seattle area)?

yea, you're right Bala. it's been too long since I thought about that. Heinrich is certainly right--the Adams Glacier is much more on par with the Coleman HW for objective danger.

It was late morning in early july, and it wasn't hot yet. It fell from the upper right-hand corner of the route. Serac fall occurs independent of weather factors, however.

I watched a huge serac calve off the upper Adams Glacier in early July a few years back. it scoured the entire climbing route and would have killed anyone on the route. Never seen that on the North Ridge of Baker. Edit: if you're walking the road to get to the North Ridge, you're going in the wrong season. And for Alex's comment about the Coleman maze -- walk to Harrison Camp/Mirkwood and descend onto the lower Coleman (below the ice climbing seracs), then cross the medial moraine onto the Roosevelt Glacier. Walk up easy glacier to the base of the route.

i've got a new 5mm nylon tag line that i'd swap for the Sabers.