kurthicks

nope, it's still closed at the junction for no apparent reason. I'm assuming this makes break-ins more likely since it's easier to get to/away from the junction. We climbed Glacier via the Gerdine/Cool glacier route, though i've got a bunch of photos of Sloan from White Pass if you want to see one.

or use: Garda Hitch ATC-Guide/Reverso in autoblocking mode Alternately, here is a photo of the ATC/Prussik combo in use that was mentioned above. (bottom strand is load strand/climber): Of course, carabiners are only 50-60% friction efficient... but carrying a pulley that you never use is 100% inefficient... a reasonable size-up of rescue pulley systems can be found here

We had a car get broken into at the current parking for the NF Sauk trailhead (for Glacier Peak and Sloan Peak) sometime between Aug 2 and the morning of August 5. At least one other car was hit as well. Leave your valuables at home. Lazy meth heads though--my laptop and wallet were in the car and escaped detection.

were they at the newest trailhead? years ago, I went to the trailhead described in Nelson & Beckey and found no bridge, but old abutments. We waded. Drive further up the road.

it resolved on its own. I resolved to stop guiding Denali for a while. Perhaps there is some correlation?

neice.com neclimbs.com

agreed on all counts. It's replacement bolting and should be standard practice at all of our crags. In Washington, we seem to have a hard time recognizing that bolts wear out and should be in replaced when necessary. As Layton said, if it was good on the first ascent, it should be good now.

I'll take them Matt if you can hold onto them for a week until I get back to town; that is, if you consider my home worthy.

I'd love to see it too.

Yep, I'm aware of that. more specifically, I'm looking for info about trail conditions/blowdowns/crossings/glacier conditions, etc.

nice work guys

anyone been in the NF Sauk approach to Glacier Peak this year? Got any beta? Thanks!

I found an inflatable pad up at 10,500' on the Kautz the other day. Let me know if it's yours. kurthicksATgmail.com

it's still free online, isn't it?

nice trip amigos! It seems like Chris can't get enough of that mountain.

sometime soon I'm going to finally finish the new guidebook for the Lightning Dome area. it's slowly, ever so slowly, coming along. PM me if you want it

There should be a sign there. I've almost been hit there a number of times...bottles, cans, rocks, sticks, etc.

anyone have one of these hammers with a full pick on it that they want to offload? I'm jonesing for a pin/bolting hammer with a pick for the alpine...

Word on the street (from NOCA in Marblemount) is that the NPS is going to require bear canisters starting soon in the Cascade Pass/Boston Basin area and perhaps elsewhere.

i saw two lots of them on the Seattle Craigslist today. give it a look.

yes and yes. i'll call you

from a friend: I was up there yesterday and climbed Forbidden w. ridge. Its in great shape. We climbed to the ridge with little to no difficulties. Once at the ridge we climbed for another 200ft with crampons and then the rest of the ridge was bare and dry. The snow was in great shape for travel 'til mid day. It began after the third creek crossing. Even in the hottest part of the day the snow was still reasonable for walking, except in old avi debris. The North ridge still has a lot of snow on it and looks like it needs a couple of more weeks for some stuff to fall off of it. The NE face still looks like a winter climb. Sahale appears to have snow all the way to the summit with no exposed rock. Sharkfin tower looks great. Good snow coverage to base and then bare rock. Torment still has last years snow coming down the route, so torment forbidden needs some time. N face buckner looks completely free from any difficulties. Mixup needs some time.

Anyone been up the Fisher Chimneys or White Salmon and seen the Arayete yet this season? A photo would be great.

What terrible news. The same thing just happened on Mt. Baker: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/2011/07/05/2089255/missing-climber-found-dead-on.html

Everything is in the mail! New post coming with the remaining stuff. (still have cams, lockers, bag, and boots, plus some other stuff TBD) Kevo - I need the waistbelt back. my new pack doesn't have one. Fast and light for you!