kurthicks

we saw a little wind effect up on the crest of Heliotrope, but otherwise it was stable. we dug no pits. 2-5" of pow in most places. pole pen was up to 30cm.

a skiff of snow in the forest at 5500'. the lower coleman looks all blue still. some water ice on the trail and the creek crossings are a bit slippery. Good skiing above 6k.

Gentlemen--The key is to optimize your activity based on current conditions, not necessarily the "season." Today was unquestionably skiing after two days of snow (about 14" of fresh on Baker at 7000'), followed by a perfectly calm sunny day; next week is looking like it's going to be alpine and rock climbing... it was a fantastic day out on the planks though!

Taken today. Click for full-size images. Baker Colfax

I've got a good amount from ASCA and am expecting more in the near future.

I'll get some bolts and you can take me out there Jens!

Canadian Rockies have way way better mixed climbing, unless you like scary choss pulling.

Sounds good Dave. I'm not in disagreement with the use of the bolts for SAR purposes; I was just hoping that all alternatives had been considered prior to the installation and it sounds like they have. I was and am primarily concerned that new convenience anchors weren't sprouting in the Icicle.

I don't know if Dave is referring to the tree on top, or the tree on the ledge where the last pitch starts.

It's probably not optimal, but what did they use before the bolts went in?

They aren't a tripping hazard, but I think your other points Gene are all valid. It's also crazy because a perfectly good anchor can be built about 10' away in a horizontal crack, though it may be the case that the fall-line rap isn't quite as good. Taking the hangers between missions/training seems like the best idea since I bet someone who's unaware of their purpose will take (or chop) them. I will check out their usability as a rap anchor the next time I'm up there.

Thanks for the info Dave (although it is alarming and frustrating in a number of ways).

OK, maybe three months. I know they weren't there in June when i did the route last. any other insights?

I saw a pair of new rap bolts on R&D today, a ways to the left of the boulder on top. Looks like they're pretty fresh--in fact i know they are less than two months old. Who wants to claim them?

I wasn't going to make that decision Matt, especially since a gear anchor can be built in the crack below the anchor on hand sized pieces (though it's annoying since it's at your ankles). Another anchor can be built up and left near the "fixed" hex. There are five routes that end on or pass through Saber ledge, though only two are popular (Saber and Canary). I think one anchor is enough...the new 1/2" stainless bolts are more than strong enough for multiple parties hanging on them. They have double rings so lots of folks can clip into them. It's also a bit up and left of the old anchor as the old bolts sheared and I couldn't reuse the holes.

Leavenworth Castle Rock Saber Ledge - 2 anchor bolts w/ Fixe rings 10/2011 The old anchor was a pain to remove, mainly because of the epoxy that was holding it in place. The four studs (5/16") all sheared off easily.

wow, you sent in ergos and got ergos and nomics back. what a steal!

nope, been too busy guiding (and it's not the side of the business that I am involved with on a daily basis). I assume that it would be managed as per the current NCNP regulations.

I don't know the exact verbage, but I believe it's not expressly forbidden in Boston Basin, and it isn't recommended either. I know that AAI tries to avoid doing it. We're climbers after all and we get it--a good guide will do their best to choose low profile crags on weekends or avoid popular routes during their peak seasons.

Nice work on the send. I thought I heard you replacing the upper anchor after the lead? Nice job on that too!

i've got an absolute zero. black. medium. light use, no smells. asking $300 PM me if you're interested. Kurt

Buy the Topo! software and print your own.

Lee- give me a shout if you need someone. I'm free most days right now, though the weather sucks. Eastside!

Bryan - shoot me an email/PM if you're still looking. I can likely swing some time in Nov., though not internationally (unless you count the Great White North).