hanman

Hey there Tyson- we were up on the Zipper. I haven't aid climbed in a couple years, it was great to get back on the cam hooks Dtown road work will definitely be on the list... MH

Looks like it may be challenging reaching many excellent climbing areas come spring.... Not surprising considering some of the weather we have had recently. I'm heading up to camp in Bedal, and will post some photos of 2060 and 49 on Monday. Anyone been up to see the damage? MH From FS website: "2060 Clear Creek UNREACHABLE Avalanche damage to road at mile 2, near Asbestos Creek, impassable beyond. Some avalanche debris in the road before the impassable damage. Use caution. Downed trees, snow, rocks and icy conditions likely. 49 Sloan Creek/North Fork Sauk INACCESSIBLE Road washed out at MP 1.7, just past North Fork Sauk Falls Trailhead. Snow and icy conditions likely.. 2040 Squire Creek UNKNOWN Road damage has closed this road to all motorized vehicles 2 miles from trailhead. Major slide in 2002 took out the road about 3.5 miles from Darrington. 2000 Mt. Loop Scenic Hwy Hwy 7 County Mt. Loop Hwy – Verlot UNREACHABLE Snohomish County closes the Mt. Loop Highway at Red Bridge milepost 18, seven miles east of the Verlot Public Service Center, while road crews work to stabilize the Silverton-Waldheim debris slide. This closure cuts off access from Granite Falls to the Deer Creek snow play area. Only residents are allowed past Red Bridge. The Darrington to Barlow Pass side of the Mt Loop is reported to have 4” of snow at Chokwich Creek, approximately 19 miles south of Darrington. Minor slumping and rocks are impacting the roadway in some areas, use caution. For more Snohomish County Road Updates"

Mid 50's Pfaff 130 does the trick if you can find one. Small in size but weighs like 78 lbs. Sews Type 18 webbing, ballistic nylon, milspec, climbingspec, dive web and leather up to about 1/4" thick with some adjustments. Back in the mid 90's I owned a small sewing shop, and did alot of static and dynamic testing on our webbing products. Properly formed bartacks always were stronger than the base material. Take an old Petzl draw, cut apart tack, you'll find a narrow tack overlayed with a wider lock tack on the reverse run. This is is how I have always done them. Cheers! MH

Don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but I like to use an unscented spray anti perspirant prior to putting on the sox- Much insulative value is lost when sox or insoles get laden with water vapor. Also helps make the chemical heaters last alot longer as well. MH

Hi Bill- I have not, but I will as soon as lil'Pika gets trashed. 2 seasons in Darrington granite and going strong still. MH

My choice is a Vaughan (sp?) 22 oz ball peen w/ hickory handle with exactly 3" cut off the handle. This ends up being really well balanced more like drumsticks (yep, I'm a drummer...) Care required with 1/4" bits. Rocpeckers are sloppy, Fixe holder is monsterously large, Pika with 2 set screws is the ticket (thanks DaveW). Enjoy- MH

Nice pix Vert- hope to see you this winter!- MH

Very nice to meet you and friends David- What a place. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. I think Rainman has some great photos, we'll try to scare em up Cheers, M. Hanna

Likewise- see you there. 8 or so of us coming over Thursday-Sunday. Might be some sort of an attendance record . Hope to see you there-- Cheers- M.Hanna

Hey Bill- Looks like you need to get up here to Big 4 to take advantage of the cobblishesness. Most of these actually stay put M. Hanna

Nicely done SergeantG - A spectacular line on a beautiful wall.Thanks for your unstoppable energy and focus- Cheers, MH

I love that place in the Fall. And the Spring. And the Summer. And the Winter. Great climb! Let's hope for minimal road damage over the next few months eh? MH

I also have had several Costco soft shells and found them to be quite solid and reasonably water resistant. The bonus is when I need to pad sharp edges or stand on it for insulation, throwing down a cheapy is effective. The Paradox long johns are toasty and Costco sox are outlasting my Smartwools at this point. Dirtbaggin' thumbs up.

Wow- Dallas inspired me in many ways. His routes at Mt Erie were a great place to learn the ropes. Once I came down from the Snag Butress area and spied this guy vigorously scrubbing the boulder near the road while standing neck deep in blackberry thicket. Classic Dallas sighting. His winter ascents guide led us to play around the central N cascades like Lake 22, Sauk Mtn, Bald Mt, and many others. Great adventures. Dallas' contributions to local climbing and quality of life will be missed greatly. Condolences to family and friends. Mark Hanna

Right on! Glad you enjoyed the Grail. I love that climb. That steep knob pitch is pretty unlikely, if nature gave 1 less knob, not sure it would go.... Or if the tips crack was a bit steeper... Well done guys! MH

Mr BenMurphy, Danny, and myself put up a nice 2 P 5.9/+ to the direct left of Romantica a couple weeks ago. It is called Vitamin R. Overall, about 300 feet of really nice moves and position, which ends on the big bench. Approach trail is in good shape all the way up to the Romantica area. Plans to continue for a few more pitches are in the works. Some photos:

Excellent work Darin- Can't wait to check it out, looks fun! M. Hanna

I have been wanting to go to the Orange Wall to check out those longer climbs, and have heard that it's possible to 4X to get out there. Anyone know if this is doable in a Toyota AWD wagon, or shall I bring the big old Blazer for clearance issues ?? Thanks in advance- MH

I would definitely stop in at Hell's. That place is amazing! Here's an old TR I did- http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/893056/TR_Hell_s_Canyon_Many_5_15_200#Post893056 M. Hanna

Let's just say that his additional foot of reach over the midget was the source of much of the various linguistic opportunities as usual... That was a fun day Shappy! MH

Hey there Jimbo- Here's a link to the original TR- The place is really quite clean despite the aspect. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/484691/Re_TR_Big_Four_Direct_Tower_Ro

Trip: Big 4 Direct Tower Route - Date: 7/25/2010 Trip Report: So a couple weeks ago, Shapp, benmurphy, rainman, and myself took a little trip to the Big 4 Tower, which I had not really been back to since the bridge was out. I forgot how much I really enjoy the rock, setting, and easy approach. We did the first 3 pitches of this 13 pitch route. Some photos-- Unique tree Rainman on P1 Looking down P1 Fueling up Looking down from P3 Mr Murphy having fun on P2- Me on the PG13 somewhat runout don't wanna fall P3 P3- tricky move off the belay Hanman/Shapp at the big ledge after P3 Cobbles and cobbles Nice silver snag The walk out could use some clipping- go figure.... Slabs from below the route- this wall only got about 10 minutes of sun all day- great for beating the heat! Your tax dollars at work- price of aluminum must have been low that week Gear Notes: Medium rack to #4, the first pitch eats up many finger pieces, then gets big. Pitches are long (near 50 M), lotza draws needed. P1, P4, 5 are gear pitches. Approach Notes: Big 4 trail, head left past 2 chasms, up on a bench below the climb, then about 300 feet of bushy 3rd class to reach the base of the route

Bump- just saw this thread- I like to use a microcender rigged pushed above by top handled ascender. You never have to mind it, and this minimizes fall distance in case something slips. Kind of a hold over from doing lots of industrial rope access stuff- I like to have rope grab type devices as far above as possible so they can quickly activate with no intent or action on my part. MH

Big fan of B.O.B., and a double bowline is fun for a 3 piece anchor if needed (3 adjustable loops). I've never liked fiddling with cloves, unless it's in pumpkin pie. MH

Glad you liked Sparks, good work on the link up- That dike was really fun, actually similar conditions with the drizzle on the FA. I seem to remember the pod on P1 took a pretty good pinky or red tri cam. Hoping to get out on the 10th, but may have family in town.... That smeary crux on Fuddhat is one of my favorites, just keep on paddling MH