hanman

Hey there Jimbo- Here's a link to the original TR- The place is really quite clean despite the aspect. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/484691/Re_TR_Big_Four_Direct_Tower_Ro

Trip: Big 4 Direct Tower Route - Date: 7/25/2010 Trip Report: So a couple weeks ago, Shapp, benmurphy, rainman, and myself took a little trip to the Big 4 Tower, which I had not really been back to since the bridge was out. I forgot how much I really enjoy the rock, setting, and easy approach. We did the first 3 pitches of this 13 pitch route. Some photos-- Unique tree Rainman on P1 Looking down P1 Fueling up Looking down from P3 Mr Murphy having fun on P2- Me on the PG13 somewhat runout don't wanna fall P3 P3- tricky move off the belay Hanman/Shapp at the big ledge after P3 Cobbles and cobbles Nice silver snag The walk out could use some clipping- go figure.... Slabs from below the route- this wall only got about 10 minutes of sun all day- great for beating the heat! Your tax dollars at work- price of aluminum must have been low that week Gear Notes: Medium rack to #4, the first pitch eats up many finger pieces, then gets big. Pitches are long (near 50 M), lotza draws needed. P1, P4, 5 are gear pitches. Approach Notes: Big 4 trail, head left past 2 chasms, up on a bench below the climb, then about 300 feet of bushy 3rd class to reach the base of the route

Bump- just saw this thread- I like to use a microcender rigged pushed above by top handled ascender. You never have to mind it, and this minimizes fall distance in case something slips. Kind of a hold over from doing lots of industrial rope access stuff- I like to have rope grab type devices as far above as possible so they can quickly activate with no intent or action on my part. MH

Big fan of B.O.B., and a double bowline is fun for a 3 piece anchor if needed (3 adjustable loops). I've never liked fiddling with cloves, unless it's in pumpkin pie. MH

Glad you liked Sparks, good work on the link up- That dike was really fun, actually similar conditions with the drizzle on the FA. I seem to remember the pod on P1 took a pretty good pinky or red tri cam. Hoping to get out on the 10th, but may have family in town.... That smeary crux on Fuddhat is one of my favorites, just keep on paddling MH

Recently heard at local crag: Guy 1: "Hey, how bout putting some draws on so the chains don't get worn out while you're top roping?" Guy 2: "Chill brah, I got Burdo on speedial" No shit....

Hey Dave- How would one go about obtaining a fresh copy of said guidebook? Thanks in advance- M. Hanna

Hey Matt- I was hoping you would post up. Thanks for the great pix- we were up there last w/e and that "dry streambed approach" was not dry by about 2 feet!! Lots of beautiful waterfalls this time of year. Good work- Cheers, MH

Thanks Otto for the revolver work- I did the galvy chains and links up there to existing anchors ~5 years ago. You should have seen the original tat- WOW. Some suggestions for route work I would add would be Tidbits new chains/ tat removal, Broad Daylight bolt upgrade, and the second pitch of what I believe is Magic Bus (traverses right to access a nice rib/arete thing. Overall,the 1/4inchers up there are pretty solid. I recently did some static destructive testing on several of the plated SMC thin hangers taken from previous 3:00 rock retro work, and as long as they were not cracked, they were reliable to about 2500 to 2600 lbs. Not strong by today's standards, but not failing under body weight either. MH

I was up there in early March- Our autumn work was well preserved- should be all good- I always throw an axe and shovel in for good measure as Jimbo suggests- MH

Heading up Sun early evening to bivy and do Centerstage on Roan Monday if you are not gainfully employed or have other obligations- MH

Check that box

Well said Tyson

If you stay just below Illusion Wall, you can rope up and trend left/up for a couple roped pitches and brushy gully simulclimb no harder than 5.8. I think the real early seaon crux is avoiding the sometimes large spontaneous rockfall in the vicinity of Strawberry ledge area. It's a big face- be careful out there- MH

Yeah- about 15 miles past Clear creek, FS Road 49. The Blue Mtns are nice this time of year though MH

Walked in with a couple buddies with hopes of Slab Daddy- a couple large ledges had considerable snow and accompanying drool- no go without a fight. We decided to go to Spring Mtn instead, which was dry, warm, and non drooly. Steeper face climbs on excellent gneiss up to 6 pitches there for Frankazoid Turned out to be a great day! As far as steep DTown proper, Solar Wall on the east face needs a FFA, it's real steep on pitches 3, 4, 5. M. Hanna

Praise the lord- I loves me some tasteeee DTown slab. Nuthin' finer in the lower 49er

Another recent related update from NW Hikers: "Road Construction Closes Sloan Creek Road off Mountain Loop Highway Access to Glacier Peak Wilderness, North Fork Sauk Trail Affected Everett, Wash. March 29, 2010— The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is closing Sloan Creek Road, forest road 49, April 5-9 to replace culverts and repair damage. Sloan Creek Road is 16 miles south of Darrington off of Mountain Loop Highway at mile post 37. Road construction will block access to Sloan Creek/North Fork Sauk, Lost Creek Ridge, Bald Eagle, Sloan Climber's Route, North Fork Sauk Falls and Harold Engles trails. Call Darrington Ranger District for updates weekdays at 360-436-1155, or Verlot Public Service Center weekends at 360-691-7791. For updated information about trails and roads, go to alerts and conditions on http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/." MH

Trip: Darrington- Baloney Dome - A couple Date: 3/20/2010 Trip Report: Took a trip up to Baloney Dome which is situated several hundred feet below roughly the 23rd Psalm area of Blueberry Hill. We scrubbed and climbed Hoodathunk (5.10 a/b), and Baloney Pony (5.9+) There are currently 8 routes in place, most need a scrub because of low visitation. Further details are in Rattle and Slime. Thanks JR and James Gear Notes: Med rack to 3, draws Approach Notes: Enter forested rib about 150 feet north of the 1st granite wash below Blueberry Hill. Keep within 50 feet of the avy path to the north, follow game trail for 20 minutes to reach crag.

Not recent news but-(from NW Hikers). This may effect access to Pugh, Bedal, FS 49, Spring Mtn etc... Sorry if this has been previously posted: Road Construction Closes Mountain Loop Highway Weekday Access to Through Traffic Blocked Everett, Wash. March 4, 2010— The Forest Service is closing Mountain Loop Highway 7 a.m. Monday through noon Friday beginning March 8 until the end of April. It will open on weekends. Workers will close various locations from mile post 42, south of White Chuck Bench Overlook, to mile post 35, south of Bedal Creek Bridge. Closures next week on the north side of Mountain Loop Highway will block access from Darrington to forest road 49 and Sloan Creek Trailhead, which leads to Glacier Peak Wilderness. Hikers will need to come from Granite Falls to reach that trailhead. The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is making road upgrades, including replacing older, deteriorating culverts and upsizing culverts to better accommodate the passage of fish and flood waters. Call Darrington Ranger District for updates weekdays at 360-436-1155, or Verlot Public Service Center weekends at 360-691-7791. For updated information about trails and roads, go to alerts and conditions on http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/.

One of my many faults. I was born with a scrub brush on one arm and a burke bar on the other. Ahhhh genetics MH

Urban Bypass is probably due- they are 5pc Powers fairly rusty including the anchor. An upgrade to SS may be good before they get too difficult to remove due to rust in the end cone. I'll give a hand if needed. MH

Here's a couple shots Mattp took 2 weeks ago- TickTock pitch 1

Good times Murphy- Had alot of fun this w/e. Urban Bypass is an excellent pitch- good thing I've got some winter weight to increase the shoe friction MH

TW is on my cleanup list this spring if noone gets to it first. Also, there is a 5 pitch line that Greyell started about 100 feet left of Tracks that will be likely viable later in the year with a "bit" of effort Glad you had a good time MS! Nice to meet you guys out there.