Bill_Simpkins

I've never needed double sizes on easier routes, like 5.5 or less. On those, I usually just bring 4-5 tcus and cams to 3-4" above that, but no overlaps with the tcus or cams. Again, varies per individual. There are many ways to keep rack weight down. Light biners is important, less gear and light slings help a lot. The trango superfly biners with the mammut dyneema has saved a lot of weight and space for me. -Another that has resently helped are the Camp Bolo nuts. There are two stoppers per cable. To get a full range you only need 3 of the 6 plus 3 BD stoppers. BD stoppers #3-13: 396 grams Camp Bolo Set,6 total (10mm-33mm): 296 grams Camp Bolo #1,3,5 stoppers (10mm-29mm): 130 grams Camp Bolo #1,3,5+BD #3,5,7 : 214 grams If the Alpine routes are harder, I go with a full set of BD's, else I use the Bolos with a couple smaller BD's thrown in. Tricams work ok for larger nut sizes and are good for whatever, especially belays. If the rock is really grainy and chossy, I try leaving small hexes and tiny nuts at home. Usually you can find a place for the gear you bring. There are many ways to skin a cat.

I agree, on rappells or 3 people is more convenient to have a sling. I don't carry a daisey because I can just use a sling. The daisy just gets in the way (for me). There is a cool trick you can do with a caribiner to shorten and lengthen slings real fast without tying knots. If the sling is too long, just clip a biner to one side of the loop and rap one side of the sling around the spine of the biner. Generally though, a cows tail is a good length for me for hanging rap stations.

Use the rope.

Good job Dan! Was the trail as deep as the slots?

He should have choked it instead.

Good Job!

BS. All of your complaints (trails, flakes, etc) fall under accelerated wear - and the only people who'd know about it are people who've accessed the area via a trail. Much of the public realizes a difference bewteen motorized & unmotorized recreation. Much of the public realizes the difference betwen damage inflicted by a commercial even of 400 people and 400 private parties dispersed over the course of months. You're not even getting my point. The point is if we complain about them, they will complain about us. You said I am complaining about flakes, trails etc...I am not. I am stating that we do that stuff and people could use it against us. So were should be careful about what we complain about and who we complain to. I agree with you that many people see the difference, but it is still good amo for other

Our access is getting threatened more and more every year. The more we complain about others peoples access, the more ours will be threatened.

Just think how many more birds would nest at Smiff or Sqaumish if no one was on the cliffs. How much more wildlife their would be roaming around the woods at the smokebluffs if we wern't there. Who knows? It can be debated. What if a group forms saying they no longer want to see clean streaks going up the cliffs were the routes are. That it is an eye-sore and takes away from the wildlife experience. What if people saying that yelling climbers take them away from nature in their favorite spot. Who's to say we have more of a right to be there? There is a lot of bad stuff that we climbers do that we think is ok just because we are the ones benefiting. The point is, however, is all this stuff can be used against us, and we should be careful.

Trails can disrupt an ecosystem, which can have a permanent effect. There are many arguments in both directions. As far as cams go, they do little or no damage, snomobiles cause lot's of noise which can scare wildlife out of an area, big difference. But if we get on their case, the snomobilers might say that cams can dislodge flakes causing permanent damage also, which is rare, but true. I have personal opinions on the subject, but I feel Bob has a good point and we should gripe less about other people activities. We have to be careful about who we gripe to, and what we gripe about, else we won't be climbing anymore.

I think everyone is missing Bob's point. It's not the use of trekking poles he is talking about. i think he's trying to say that if we raise a stink about others peoples stuff, they can easily build a case against climbers and hikers, thus threaten access to these areas. If we cause no damage at all then we have a case, but right now we are just hypocrytes.

If we want a president that most represents the people, Bush is the choice, because most of us are dumb idiots. They both blow balls in my opinion.

Well I just ordered it. I'll wrap my sleeping pad around on the inside and I'll keep it full by only compressing my sleeping bag just enough to fit in. Thanks for the input!

That's baaahhhaaahhhahhhad!

Anyone use this pack? I'm concerned about 2 things: Using a water bladder. Rope storage. I pack REALLY light and the 3200 Cu. in is way more room than I'll need. Just looking for feedback on this pack. Also if anyone uses the Granite Gear vapor trail feedback would also be welcomed.

REI was selling them realy cheap for a while.

Sweet! The "camaro hair" returns!

I prefer sewn, but it's always good to have one or two tied slings. I never leave slings on trees for rapping. I just put the rope around the tree. At tree belays I use a bowline on a bite around the tree.

I reccommended a rack above but stoppers 3-12 and BD camalots 0.4-3 with a pink and red tricam will get you up almost anything. Then add to it as you go along. Probably add the TCU's first

Set of BD camalots #0.4-4. set of stoppers, set of Metoulious TCU's, extra BD cams #1-2. Total 15 cams and and stoppers. This will last you for years and be good enough for when you get more experience. Don't have to buy all sorts of different gear that does the same thing. You will save money in the long run. Just get it now. I wanked on for years messing around with hexes, tricams and pieces together sets of cams. I wish I just did it this way. Would have saved a ton of cash and climbed harder. Opinions may vary.

I have two pinkys. In the crack I sinky, my kinky stinky pinky.

Yes, longer pitches = more rope stretch. I agree with Dru. On moutnains, start looking for a belay when half the rope is out. Once it took me till the end of the rope to find one. No good pro for 30 meters. Otherwise, I usually will only link pitches on easy terrain or routes I am very familiar with. The amount of gear you have also warrents when to stop. Sometimes I get to the belay with a ton of gear left, and if the line is straight, I may go for it.

I rope solo'd a ton of routes in Squamish. I had a really good time. Weather was perfect.

Anything composed of Granite. PM me.

Less overlap only in the larger sizes above #3