catbirdseat

The Griffey of 2009 will not the the same Griffey of 1999.

It appears that that statement must have hit pretty close to home.

I think some of the worst behavior in climbers comes from the "territorial imperative". This is seldom seen in climbers who don't get attached to a single crag.

5% of everyone in hospitals have MSRA and of those 75% walked in with it, the remainder picked it up in the hospital. I think many actually have it when they leave the hospital. They are return customers.

Vesper Peak is not near Darrington. It's this side of Barlow Pass on the Mountain Loop Hwy. It's a third class scramble with some snow.

Yes and when his guide failed to appear and an approaching storm was evident he started down with another climber.

I wouldn't make a blanket statement saying it is always wrong to leave a client on the trail, but in this case it was clearly wrong. Whether it is safe depends on a lot of things: Is the weather fine or foul? Is the client merely tired or suffering from altitude sickness? Are there few or many other climbers on the route, such that aid might be rendered in an emergency? Do you have gear to leave with the client to ensure his/her comfort and safety? How long would he be expected to wait?

We have lots of water. We just waste most of it. When water gets very scarce, we'll decide to waste less of it. By this I mean recycled waste water. Currently most of it goes into rivers and oceans instead of being reused. Waste water can be used to irrigate ornamental plantings.

If you use the shorter Alpine Equalizer and slings to extend the legs to the pro, you don't have as much extension, but then of course you've made everything more complicated by having to use slings.

Here are the things I like about ACR: 1) It is as fast as the old way I've been using which is tying off in a knot. 2) It equalizes much better. 3) It makes more cord available when anchors are widely spaced. 4) One can better adjust the location of the power point, just by adjusting the length of the loop on the overhand knot. 5) Extension is really minimal. Usually what you have in an anchor is two short arms and one long one. By putting the overhand on the long leg, you've got a limiter knot right where you want it. 6) It doesn't have permanent limiter knots in it like the Equalette that I'd have to untie to use the cord in other applications like the Quad, or lassoing a boulder. Commenting on the setup that Joseph showed: It is as easy to tie as the ACR, but its disadvantage is that you can't tie a limiter knot in any of the legs. These setups can have one and only one limiter knot, or they won't slide. The fixed power point in Joe's setup is equivalent to a limiter knot.

Hey Tvash, are you in?

Thanks for contributing. I can't wait to try it out. Have you considered using a butterfly knot for shortening an arm? Depending on your method of tying it might be harder to do with two strands than a simple overhand.

I can make it. Hope the weather's nice.

What is a "killing scale"? You don't have to answer that.

When we top roped it, we left a big cam under the roof. Each person coming up dragged a rope and clipped through.

I disagree......here is the king of insults You haven't been around long enough to remember trask, have you? Now HE was the king of insults.

Sure, but to build a gear anchor at that particular location you'd need several large pieces, would you not?

And no issues with rope drag?

Does not the route go from 5.9 at that point to 5.10b? 5.9 Climbers no longer can do the route.

Yes, I was curious about the same thing. Seems like it would be a good alternative to Dessert Dyke for getting up to the next level.

Way to go! That blood concentration would be lethal in most people.

Yes and yes.

What ARE you talking about, Seahawks?

Yes, the first story is interesting but the author doesn't have any ideas that are actionable. He just says we should hold on to our cherished Western beliefs.

Well I was at Vantage the other day imagining what it would have been like to have been present for one of the 100 or so drainages of Glacial Lake Missoula.