catbirdseat

- Use as many different cracks as you can. That way if one of the blocks moves, chances are the others are secure. In otherwords don't put all your eggs in one basket. - Use stoppers if you can. You might want the cams for the next pitch depending on what it is. - If you use stoppers either place them high in the anchor, or very low in the anchor (usually just one for an upward pull). If a shift in your position could dislodge a nut, set it in opposition to another piece using a sling. Two situations where cams can blow out a crack is if there is a loose block or an expanding flake. A stopper set high on a flake, especially an oversized one, is a way to deal with such flakes. If you use a cam, use the very largest size that will fit the crack so that if the flake flexes, there is some range for the cam to expand. Understand you might not get this cam back. Don't go hanging on it if you don't have to.

This has got to be the solution, but the trails have to be completely separate.

Hargrove's departure probably didn't hurt.

He ain't lying. These are pretty good routes. The first two could use a wee bit of additional cleaning, but are good to go. These routes feature moves that are unique for the area. Worth a visit.

If you take Rover with you, don't forget to protect HIS eyes.

My way of thinking is pretty much in line with Jay's. There was a story in the paper today about the execution of China's chief drug watch dog for taking bribes to allow the approval of an antibiotic that killed 10 people. That sort of thing would never bring a death penalty in this country.

You definitely wouldn't think of wearing gloves or goggles. Only a sissy would do that.

There's got to be some happy medium, but 10% grade is not it.

Post deleted by catbirdseat

The trail starts near a brown sign about a hundred yards down the road from Hammerhead Rock. The trail follows a gully for a short distance and then switchbacks to the right up to a bench above the highway. The bench is level, so as you walk along you are getting progressively higher above the road. After a bit you will start to climb and you are at Mad Meadows. You'll see boulders all over the place. Hike the trail as it wends it way through the boulders. Eventually you'll pass the boulders and be facing up a big slope. Look up and you'll see Baby Steps first.

That sums it up pretty nicely. Save this one, like we did, for a day when it is rainy and blowy at Washington Pass.

I just climbed The Rash today on Three O'Clock Rock. From the belay it is 70 feet of 5.4 climbing to the first bolt. I felt like it was a free solo. Surprisingly, the worse part came after the bolt was clipped. It goes from 5.4 to 5.9 in a hurry. If you fall off before clipping the third bolt, you break your ankles on the knobs below.

That's AID climbing, Rudy. In aid climbing, an inattentive belayer is a bigger risk than ripping all your gear out. Just because a GriGri makes sense in that context doesn't mean it's the best choice for free climbing in general. dude...you are a tool...in one breath you say "I absolutely want my belayer to lock off"...in another, you say "no gri gri"... same thing... AND I WAS TALKING ABOUT FREE CLIMBING ON ELCAP... so...I wouldn't hesitate to have someone belay me with a gri gri... My statements are in no way inconsistent. A locked off ATC cannot put more than 2 or 3 kN of force on the rope, no matter how hard you try. A GriGri will put 7 kN of force on the rope. Do I look like a mind reader? Most people would assume you were referring to aid climbing, in the context of El Cap.

Half of baseball is 90% mental -- Yogi Berra

He flies by the edge of his seat. We'll be there until the fat lady freezes over. A chicken in every roaster. What's good for the goose is to take a gander.

What do you mean "mixed with nylon"? Are you saying that there were slings that combined two different fiber types?

This is the sort of question best asked on RC.com. Chemically, the material is the same but if I remember correctly, the yarns are spun differently, one being finer than the other. It is said that the finer yarn version gets fuzzy faster, but I doubt it makes a difference. You can't really go wrong with the Mammut.

Chances are it was using both.

This helps explain why sport climbing was invented.

Whether it's a troll or not, it's funny as hell.

That's AID climbing, Rudy. In aid climbing, an inattentive belayer is a bigger risk than ripping all your gear out. Just because a GriGri makes sense in that context doesn't mean it's the best choice for free climbing in general.

No 5.10c sport. I've only ever led one 5.10c and it was at Vantage where the ratings are a bit soft. But I have gotten a bit stronger since that day at Erie. That was a long time ago.

I didn't know Sultan had an Ixtapa. I know Monroe does.

They were put out by ClimbAxe, were they not?

I'll lead up to 5.10c and follow up to 5.11a. I need to be back by late afternoon though. PM me if interested.