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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. Timmy's not telling. It's one of those things where if you have to ask, you'll never understand.
  2. 710 am. The Dori Monson Show.
  3. Having seen the topography with my own eyes, I can better understand the predicament that Mountaineer party was in last month. They were trapped in that saddle with the wind howling like a banshee and threatening to blow them into the bergschrund. The snow bridge is small and it is understandable how it might be hard to find in really bad visibility. If you run along the schrund blindly, you actually have to go back uphill to reach the bridge, which would be quite counterintuitive. They may have stopped just short of reaching it.
  4. Nice TR. June is a far better month to climb the Corkscrew. The glacier is simpler to cross, although, the river can be a problem then. Choose your poison.
  5. That leaves Cascade Crags in Everett and Pro Mountain Sports in Seattle. Give them your business folks!
  6. From the same reliable news source. Third Olsen Twin...or Rather, Triplet. Is this for real?
  7. The best way to discourage trash is IMHO is to have a big cleanup and get the place spotless. Then perhaps make individuals wardens of particular areas to make sure it stays picked up. If people (the litterers) see trash on the ground something in their heads tell them its okay to throw more trash on the ground. If they don't see any, at least some of them will be discouraged to toss it. It would take a lot of hard work and time, but I think it might be possible to get ahead of the problem.
  8. catbirdseat

    Fireworks?

    Sounds like the Fourth of July to the North of us, around Mountlake Terrace or Lake Forest Park. What's going on?
  9. Sometimes you can use an elbow, either 45 degrees or 90 degrees to prevent kinking.
  10. As in Ali Baba and the 40 thieves, the climber said, "Open Sesame", and the rock opened to admit said sling. He said, "Close Sesame", and the rock closed upon the sling trapping it forever until Gary came along to gaze upon its wonders.
  11. Attention cc.com women. You know what they say goes with big feet and hands.
  12. 30% of any demographic also believe in the Tooth Fairy, Santa Claus and the Great Pumpkin.
  13. The reason it prevents sleep is that it contains monosodium glutamate. Glutamate gives some people what is commonly referred to as "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome". Glutamate is a neurotransmitter. Normally it doesn't cross the blood-brain barrier. However, in some individuals, under certain circumstances it does. Glutamate is highly toxic. I has been known to cause brain lesions in rats. There is an obesity model in rats which uses glutamate. This is why I refuse to consume cytomax.
  14. Here's the culprit: You'll note the similarity to capsaisin, which is the active chemical in chili pepper. Note: the ring is actually aromatic although the structure doesn't show it. Also, the structure of piperine which is in black pepper:
  15. Good for you Muffy. Now if I could just find a job, I'd be happy too. I did make progress at repairing my wheels. I had an interesting time at Pick A Part finding fenders, hoods and such for the truck my son totalled. I think I can do the equivalent of a $4,000 repair for about $500 or less, and pocket the settlement of $2,700 for $2,200 "profit".
  16. Rock and Roll Chimney at Royal Columns, Tieton, YDS 5.3, but seems way harder. Nice 5.6 chimney on the 3rd pitch of Champagne, Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth. The last pitch of the West Ridge of Prusik, although it is very short.
  17. I challenge any of you to race JGowans up Mt. Si. I went running with him once and he blew my socks off (not that that is saying much), but I have not doubt he did it in 54 minutes. Now if the guy could just climb 5.9 at Little Si, that would impress the hell out of me...
  18. Wouldn't it be awesome to have a reunion of these guys somewhere central and meet some of them? We could call it the Cascade Elders Pub Club.
  19. Holding up your crash pad was the right thing to do. It made you look really big, like a great big....well, the bear couldn't figure it out either.
  20. Acid deposition of nitrogen oxides and sulfur oxides may exacerbate the situation. Western lakes aren't getting nearly the amount of acids as Eastern lakes, but they don't have much buffering capacity, either. One solution might be to dump limestone in the lakes to bring up the pH. There may have always been elevated mercury levels in these lakes but it may be increasing due to human activity. Most of this is coming from the burning of coal of which Geo. W wants to burn more. Much of it comes from incineration at hospitals. This source will decrease as mercury thermometers have been phased out.
  21. Texas is as flat as Cher's chest. It's useless to climbers and useless for just about anything. Their beer sucks.
  22. Nice job. You did the route in good time. Did you head up a really steep gully from the glacier? There is a quite safe way up to the South Ridge that is not at all risky either up or down. You climb under a waterfall and traverse right around a broad ridge, under a cliff and up broad snow slopes. I could show you better than I could tell you.
  23. Did anyone have trouble with altitude sickness? I'd heard that is a real risk with camping at the summit. There is a lot more time for it to set in. Anyone take Diamox?
  24. Rodchester's advice is good any time, but even better, don't go on the weekend. At least don't summit on Saturday or Sunday. We did the Emmons Route on Monday and saw a total of twelve other climbers. Contrast that with the thirty or more we saw on Sunday.
  25. We had a large group with some people who hadn't climbed Rainier before. It was decided to take three days. We would take a day off before going to the summit on the third day, well rested. On our rest day the wind blew in gusts up to 60 mph at Emmons flat and knocked down some tents. A whole bunch of people were up on the mountain that day. The summit had a cloud over it. Only a few managed to top out. That afternoon the wind let up and the lenticular disappeared. Puffy clouds appeared below us. We were in luck. The gang was so gung ho that we left at 10:15 pm, which was a good idea because it was really hot on Monday. One fellow decided to turn around not far from camp. He just didn't do well at altitude on this trip. After that we had a series of headlamp failures. Several needed new batteries and one just shorted out, eating several sets of batteries. Fortunately we had one extra headlamp. We toped out at 6:30 am and spent a pleasant hour and half on the summit. We were back in camp by 11:30 am. I was amazed at how long the Emmons route is this year. It traverses to the right forever until it reaches the saddle between Columbia Crest and Russell Cliffs. The traverse was so long that my left arm was getting tired from hefting the ice axe with nary a traverse. There is a reason why its proper name is Emmons-Winthrop.
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