catbirdseat

My wife's Goffin Cockatoo escaped and flew 30-40 ft up a fir tree. Is there anyone who can help us get the bird down? Does anyone have AlpineK's phone number?

6 mm perlon should work fine with three wraps. Whatever you get, test it first and then you'll know for sure. The thing about prussiks is that more wraps is not necessarily better. If you don't get enough friction with three wraps, switch to the kleimheist.

Dru reveals a heretofore unseen side of his complex personality, the Philosopher.

I've been here for 13 years after having moved from California. Emmet Watson was the only person ever to make me feel unwelcome (and has was sort of joking). This place has lost some of its small town charm but it still is a heck of a lot better than either California or Texas.

In a word, no.

This ain't pot! Who do you take me for, the President?

not to jump on your case and all, but to jump on your case if i may, to say there shouldn't be any slack in the rope sounds a little like a perfect world situation. my experience with simulclimbing is the follower can't always go through moves at precicely the same speed as the leader (and often may move ahead creating a little slack to give the leader enough rope for his moves). so i think a little slack could easily be in the system, although hopefully not more than 20 feet or say at most i guess. anyway, a falling body speeds up pretty quick so can't even 10 feet generate a descent yank? i have a tibloc and it pretty damn pointy looking. anybody else? You have a valid point. There likely would some slack, but I would hope not more than a couple feet. I suppose it could be as much as 10 ft. If you set a Tibloc, you know the second has some hard moves coming up. I would imagine you could make an extra effort to make sure no slack develops until he is past the move.

Consider having an extra prussik (in addition to your chest and foot prussiks) already on the rope. Then, once you get the anchor in, all you have to do is clip it to the prussik. Also, if you are on snow, consider a fluke. Flukes can be set with one hand.

Kurt, you have a valid point, however I should point out that these inexperienced instructors start out as assistant instructors, that is, they are paired with more experienced lead instructors. At least that is how it is done in the Everett Branch. I don't know how it is done in other branches of the Mountaineers.

You need the biner if there is no rappel ring there to catch the knot. If you do have a rappel ring, then you don't need the biner. In the example given, the biner was making sure that only the good rope took the strain in the single strand rappel, while the bad rope was not even passed through the rappel device. The bad rope was only used to retrieve the ropes. What's a bad rope? One that was cut partially through by a falling rock, for example. Even if it were able to take weight without breaking, it might jam in your rappel device or at the anchor when you went to pull it.

Very entertaining TR, as usual.

Found. One black neoprene sock on Thornton Lakes Trail on Saturday, August 16.

Some people would not acknowledge global warming if it bit them in the arse.

Iceguy and I went back to Blueberry Hill today. We did the West Buttress. I led the pitches that Toast had done on our previous visit. On the fourth pitch, I took a different variation on a crack that starts out as an offwidth, narrows to fists, then hands, then fingers and finally fingertips. It is all on one enormous flake. I figure the crux, where it gets down to fingertips is about 5.8+ or 5.9. Anyway it was very enjoyable. On the third pitch, which is the one protected with the two bolts, we paid close attention to potential cam placements and discovered that the section can be adequately protected using two yellow Aliens and an orange (#0.5) Clog cam. Go ahead and pull the bolts, Greg, especially the second one. Not everyone would have the two yellow Aliens, so the first bolt might need more thinking. There was a yellow sling on the second bolt, evidence that someone had recently bailed down the route using a single rope (that must have taken forever). We made good progress, so we decided to go to the summit, since I'd never been there before. The first pitch was hard the way Iceguy went. The last part had to be 5.10a, at least. The second pitch wasn't hard at 5.6, but there were terribly run out sections. I've never run anything out 50-60 ft before at 5.6, so it scared me a bit. The topo suggested that you could rap the west side, but we saw no indications of anchors so we rapped the ascent route to Blueberry Terrace then went down the rap route that finishes on the sloping terrace. We found that you need a 60 meter rope to get to the third rap station without stopping at the manky intermediate station we used last time. We also noticed a set of anchors about ten meters below the tree that was our starting point, so you can do the rap route with a 50 m rope, but it will take you longer.

Interesting concept: 12 intelligent posts on topic with no bullshit. I agree with the general consensus that a 100 m rope would likely be a management nightmare.

I climbed a 30 ft pitch of mixed ice/snow where I had trouble pulling the lip because there was no good ice and nothing to hook my tools on. I thrashed about through snow and finally found something I could hook after almost falling. Standing at the belay I realized that my harness wasn't doubled back.

The Tibloc shouldn't damage the rope because if the second falls, unless it is some sort of pendulum fall, there shouldn't be any slack in the rope and there will be little dynamic loading. If the leader falls, of course, the Tibloc doesn't hold the fall, the weight of the follower does.

I would advise you to carry the second rope in a pack as Toast and I did. Because the route is slabby and not very steep you tend not to notice the weight of the pack as much because its weight is over your feet rather than pulling you backward as it would on steeper terrain. This option is much simpler than any of the other options. If you get a 7 mm rap line you won't even notice its weight in your pack at all. I'd recommend the double fisherman if you use a 7 mm, otherwise use the EDK for two fat ropes. I' not sure you have ever used the EDK. If you do, make sure the tails are 1-2 ft long and pull all four ends alternately to tighten it. And for God's sake don't use a figure eight by mistake. It must be an overhand. If in doubt, use the double fisherman.

Blame the Canadians. It's their fault, eh?

Who's the guy in the middle with the red hat?

I think gohawks would get fired if he was seen using a Macintosh at work.

I might be. What's the plan?

Dwayner, so you are in Labeena Gooch, my home town. The Ralphs used to be the Albertson's. That's where we did our grocery shopping. Are you going to do some bodysurfing while you are there? You gotta get a clever tee shirt to wear to Pub Club. You are a diver right? You should go rent some gear and play underwater tourist. There are some cool spots to dive there.

Ooooo. Ultramafic. That really sounds impressive. That must be why they are ultraslippery?