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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. Then don't fall.
  2. The Law It takes a lot of mouse clicks, but eventually you can come up with the information. For Example.
  3. Your State Legislature passed a law that did not require the manufacturer to declare the amount of arsenic and cadmium on the label. They put on a small label which gives a phone number you can call or a website you can visit to find out. This prevents comparison shopping the the store on the basis of heavy metal contaminants.
  4. I tried to google that one up and couldn't find anything. There shouldn't be any arsenic in fire retardant. I do know that arsenic and cadmium has been found in iron supplements for lawns because they used old mine tailings as the source for the iron.
  5. The active ingredient is ammonium phosphate which is a fertilizer and is also the same chemical used in household fire extinguishers. If a colorant is needed, they add iron oxide, which is basically red ochre. When it rains, the ammonium phosphate washes off and fertilizes the soil.
  6. Alvo is the manufacturer for which Ushba is the exclusive distributor.
  7. COBRA is the last refuge of the desperate.
  8. She looks as though she is about to hurl.
  9. Oh yeah and to CBS... I'm quite flattered.
  10. Usually water or retardant are dropped on or near an active fire. Can retardant be applied proactively to create a fire break? In other words, if you are in the middle of extreme fire weather and you want to protect against a fire that may or may not occur, can you coat trees by aerial treatment with fire retardant chemicals that will not hurt the trees?
  11. The Ushba screws are all made of titanium. They have a modern large thread design, but it is said do not place as easily as chrom-moly screws, especally the new BD Turbo. The cheap titanium screws for $12 are made by Irbis. This screw weighs half of what a similar length steel screw weighs.
  12. People can get banned for abuse of PMs too.
  13. I would say less resistent to UV. Regardless, they don't take knots, well, and they are too expensive to use for that purpose.
  14. polymers that contain double bonds, in particular, are sensitive to oxidation. It's similar to the process by which vegetable oil becomes rancid.
  15. The belay bolts for the first pitch are sort of around the corner to the left. They are not needed as there is a horizontal set of pockets that will take Aliens and Tricams. The crack on the second pitch is the one that gives the route it's name. I remember the only hard move of the second pitch was right off the belay. After that it is easier than 5.8. The crack curves to the right near the top, if I remember correctly.
  16. UV degradation isn't necessarily oxidation. It has more to do with breaking of chemical bonds. There are compounds present in fibers that react with UV to form free radicals. Red dye degrades before blue dye because it absorbs shorter wavelengths and reflects the longer ones. The shorter wavelengths have higher energy and break bonds. It would be difficult to say to what degree the dye actually serves to protect the fiber by absorbing UV energy. I do know that UV protective chemicals have been incorporated into sail cloth, particularly cloth made of Kevlar and Spectra. It is said that carbon black is the best protection against UV rays. Black slings are probably among the least obtrusive colors.
  17. This is a tangential issue, but is bleaching of slings any indication of degradation? Are dark colored slings more resistent to UV damage than light colored ones? They ought to start making 1" tubular webbing out of acrylic. It would last ten years. Those blue boat covers with which many are familiar are made out of a fabric called Acrylan. The fabric always outlasts the polyester thread used to assemble the cover. I remember restitching the cover on my Lido 14 two or three times.
  18. The springboard is not recommended if you are a fattie. It's getting awfully brittle. It has been dead for many years.
  19. Is this really true? Is it only true on cc.com, or is it true in general?
  20. Obnoxious will get you banned for sure.
  21. Trask could come back if he wanted to, but he is a changed man. He realized that Spray was hurting his life and he has no desire to let Spray take over his life again.
  22. When we use the phrase "better managed", different people have different definitions of what it means. To the individual with the lawn, this means that it looks nice. Perhaps to society as a whole it means looks nice AND doesn't pollute ground water or fill up landfills. I maintain that the government is charged by the people with a much broader definition of what "well managed" means. It has more people and considerations, both short term and long term to consider.
  23. I may entertain thoughts such as yours, Robert, when I am sitting in the comfort of my own home at the computer, but when I am climbing, I don't think of anything save what I am doing at the present time. Everything else disappears. My only thoughts concern the climb ahead and both my immediate and future safety and that of my party. I may turn around, I may continue. It's what I love about climbing. Robert, you know that risk varies a whole lot depending on what sort of climbing you are doing. You may decide to limit yourself to just cragging and easier alpine trade routes out of concern for your family. I certainly wouldn't criticize you for doing that.
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