catbirdseat

That sounds like it would be a good one for klenke. Either that or Commander von Schwackenshtucken.

You mean implant of torture? Oh, my god! A Muffy implant.

As Mose Allison wrote, "If you live, your day will come".

Private Nuttykins. I was hoping for a higher rank.

It's been hashed out before but there are doubtless new stories to be told. Here's one. I was with my family in the minivan on a hot summer's afternoon. We'd been out at Monroe and were returning home through Lake Forest Park. I was driving and had just turned right on Ballinger Way from southbound Bothell Way. There is a merge with a yield sign there. Some cars turning left from northbound had just gotten a signal, but it looked like I was well ahead of the first of them, so I went and merged. No sooner as I had done this when I heard a horn honk. I looked in my rearview mirror and there was another minivan right on my bumper with the most livid maniac behind the wheel. His family was with him: wife and kids. He was screaming out the window at the top of his lungs, honking, flashing his lights. I could see the embarrassment in the poor woman's face. Apparently, the guy had floored it when he got the signal and was going 50 mph in a 30 mph zone, that's the only way I could have "cut off" the guy. Anyway, I just ignored him and went the speed limit until I turned left and he went straight. I guess I was in the wrong, but how is it worth it to totally lose your cool and ruin your whole family's day by flipping out like that?

I didn't take any photos, but see colin's post above for a topo. If you go there, stay on the trail! It goes right to the wall on it's left side.

Sweet!

I just got a look at Fee Demo Wall. It's nice granite- closest granite to Seattle you'll find. I intend to come back for a visit in the summer when water isn't coursing down it. There were piles of foam at the base.

Total Soul and Dark Rhythm in Darrington George and Martha and Sex Party at Vantage Godzilla at Index Cocaine Crack and Condorphamine Addiction at Leavenworth

All settled in, Dave? How are Tevas for climbing?

Ducks and Drakes in Leavenworth. It's across the street from Gustav's. On a hot summer afternoon, when Gustav's is full of people and swealtering hot, D&D's is delightfully cool and dark. Toast turned me on to the place. The waitresses are all really cute and friendly and the sandwiches are really good. And of course they have a good selection of microbrews in pitchers.

Dude, that's rad. It sure didn't take long for the river to bust through the debris!

I'll bet the Frenchman left all his gear up and down the route too, per plan. This practice some day must end.

There was your big mistake, you should have gone right on past and then come back. The guy probably though, "bingo, a climber!"

You think it sucks because there isn't much overhanging stuff there. It isn't your favorite style of climbing.

Talk about an obscure reference. Only a chemist would know what the word enantiomer means.

That was rad! Most excellent!

Those of us who enjoy climbing at Vantage prefer the more dignified term, guano.

I get all the chalk I need from the holds themselves. If I'm getting sweaty, and I've got a sloper to deal with, I'll finger my chalk ball that removes the wetness and puts just enough chalk on to do that job and no more.

We have two issues here. The first one has to do with the damage the screw does to the ice as it is PLACED. The other issue is torque applied to the screw in a fall after it is placed. To place a screw you need torque and to get torque you need a lever arm of some sort. The hangar or handle of the screw is what provides the lever arm. The ideal situation would be a Tee-shaped hangar that delivered pure torgue to the screw without any side to side component. This non-angular component is one contributor to ice cracking, but not the only one. Now to address torque applied through the hangar/handle in a fall. The ideal situation in good ice is that the threads of the screw take all the load and there is no lateral force on the shaft of the screw. Setting the screw with a downward angle is one way to place more load in tension and less in shear. The hangar on BD screws acts like a lever arm to the extent that it its ability to pivot to the direction of pull is limited. Some of the designs have a hangar that is much like that of a bolt hangar. There is an entirely separate lever for placing the screw. I think this is a good design feature. Maybe I misread the original post but it seems that the tests done at FF address placement but not pull out strength. It would be interesting to use a drill motor with perfect angular torgue to place all the screws to see how much ice fracturing occurs. Then you could address exactly how much fracturing affects pull out strength.

For one thing, I'd try to reduce the amount of chalk you use. I think some people use way too much chalk and it just fouls the air and the holds for other people.

You got THAT right!

There's all sorts of interesting stuff, like, Israeli soldiers shoot 15 year old boy for sport.

Match the cc.com people with the apostles (and Jesus) Bartholomew James Minor Andrew Peter (also called Simon Peter) Judas Iscariot John / Mary Jesus Thomas James Major Philip Matthew Thaddeus Simon the Canaanite (also Simon the Zealot)

I've never before heard of a song in which every line is a palindrome. That is cool.