catbirdseat

You think it sucks because there isn't much overhanging stuff there. It isn't your favorite style of climbing.

Talk about an obscure reference. Only a chemist would know what the word enantiomer means.

That was rad! Most excellent!

Those of us who enjoy climbing at Vantage prefer the more dignified term, guano.

I get all the chalk I need from the holds themselves. If I'm getting sweaty, and I've got a sloper to deal with, I'll finger my chalk ball that removes the wetness and puts just enough chalk on to do that job and no more.

We have two issues here. The first one has to do with the damage the screw does to the ice as it is PLACED. The other issue is torque applied to the screw in a fall after it is placed. To place a screw you need torque and to get torque you need a lever arm of some sort. The hangar or handle of the screw is what provides the lever arm. The ideal situation would be a Tee-shaped hangar that delivered pure torgue to the screw without any side to side component. This non-angular component is one contributor to ice cracking, but not the only one. Now to address torque applied through the hangar/handle in a fall. The ideal situation in good ice is that the threads of the screw take all the load and there is no lateral force on the shaft of the screw. Setting the screw with a downward angle is one way to place more load in tension and less in shear. The hangar on BD screws acts like a lever arm to the extent that it its ability to pivot to the direction of pull is limited. Some of the designs have a hangar that is much like that of a bolt hangar. There is an entirely separate lever for placing the screw. I think this is a good design feature. Maybe I misread the original post but it seems that the tests done at FF address placement but not pull out strength. It would be interesting to use a drill motor with perfect angular torgue to place all the screws to see how much ice fracturing occurs. Then you could address exactly how much fracturing affects pull out strength.

For one thing, I'd try to reduce the amount of chalk you use. I think some people use way too much chalk and it just fouls the air and the holds for other people.

You got THAT right!

There's all sorts of interesting stuff, like, Israeli soldiers shoot 15 year old boy for sport.

Match the cc.com people with the apostles (and Jesus) Bartholomew James Minor Andrew Peter (also called Simon Peter) Judas Iscariot John / Mary Jesus Thomas James Major Philip Matthew Thaddeus Simon the Canaanite (also Simon the Zealot)

I've never before heard of a song in which every line is a palindrome. That is cool.

My old boss, Dave D., was in the research group at UW that elucidated the mechanism of acetaminophen liver toxicity. A highly reactive benzoquinone species forms. It is very hard to observe because of the reactivity. It was trapped by reacting with another molecule and it's existence inferred. Liver failure is a real bummer. Don't mess around with Tylenol and alcohol. Regarding Aspirin versus Naproxen. I read somewhere that Aspirin is a 4000:1 COX-1/ COX-2 inhibitor, which explains why it is so harsh on the stomach. The prostaglandins that COX-1 produces are protective of the stomach lining. Naproxen is 1:1 COX-1/COX-2. This is the lowest ratio of all the over the counter NSAIDS.

That sucks the Great Green Weenie.

They should have named it Holy Grail Pale Ale, not Stale!

But he staggers creatively and with great literary skill.

You are probably right. I Forester could probably do it, but not an Outback or a Legacy Wagon. I know this place that would be such an incredible place to car camp and have a party. Views of Rainier, Adams and Stuart. Have a kegger and watch the sunset.

The Beckey Route ordinarily isn't worth reading about, but do it in the snow in mountain boots and it can be interesting. All depends on what happened and how you wrote it up. Uncle Tricky could write a great TR about walking to the corner store to buy a carton of milk.

Lyrics by Mark Murphy to Dat Dere, by Thelonius Monk Hey Daddy what's a square? And where do we get air? And Daddy, oh hey Daddy what and why and where? Hey Daddy what dat dere? And what dey doing dere? And Daddy can I have that big elephant over there?

Dru you should kiss the ground Uncle Tricky walks on, rather than sully it the way you do.

Forget about who said it for once and address what he said goddamit! You get so wrapped up in labeling people. Either you agree with the statement or you don't!

That's great!

Moose Drool is thick and so is the beer.

As heard on NPR. Table Saw Technology Aims to Save Fingers.

I like his stuff. Nobody else has creativity to match this morning.

Oh, brother, I've had it for 5 weeks now. I went to get a chest x-ray yesterday because my doc was worried it might be TB. It's not. It's bronchitis. I'm so tired of coughing.