COL._Von_Spanker

Y'alls flow be wack, in dire need of surgery best check yerself in for that frontal lobotomy my rymes tighter than Nashville Pussy, and slicker than John Gotti callin out you cyber fools Step to this shit yer sure to get skooled so many plab playa's in da hizzy; make all ya fly ladies wanna get naked and get busy... ..with the boys who live large and take no priznas crushin' other MC's like grapes in napa. tippin back da 40 like a playa tips his ho's callin out all you wankers and all yer wack prose..

9 out of 10 sirs.

G14 vs Sabertooth? I had the same dilemma when buying a new pair of crampons, I have not used the G14's but when I was shopping/asking around I was told that the sabers might be a better "all around" alpine crampon, as the horizontal points may have less of a tendency to shear in questionable or thin, alpine situations, whereas the G14's might be better suited for waterice and mixxxed techy bidnass. This was what I was told so take it for what it's worth. Whenever I'm gettin' down to the anal nitty gritty of techy info I just think "people have climbed much harder stuff with considerably less advanced gear", that usually calms me down to the point I can make a simple decision. I'm still not sure if the sabers were the right choice, but I would like to try out one on each foot and see what I like better.

good call. That's sorta what I was getting at, though the force of belaying a second is quite different than a factor 2 leader fall.

In response to Poster: RuMR Subject: Re: Ice Screw(ed) Yeah, that was what i thought. The pic and text both say angling UPWARDS, though... basically the back of the screw should be above the front of the screw, so I guess this could be called upwards, or downwards it's a matter of semantics. The head of the screw should be placed 15 degrees below perpendicular with the ice, this is to avoid fuckin' up the ice in a fall. The teeth on modern screws are sufficient for holding the screw in the ice. If the ice is bad then all bet are off though.

That would be a good thesis project; which would give the excuse to go climbing all the time to do "research". Or hire a physics intern to fugure it all out.

It seems like the force absorbed by the belayer would be rather substantial, hence the broken bones. So this would not be a reccomended scenario to alleviate forces on the anchor, but a force that cannot be ignored in this situation.

If the rope doesn't go through the anchor can't we assume that some of the force is absorbed by the belayer and transfered into the ground, muscles, breaking bones, before it gets to the ancor. It seem like with all the details of newtonian physics some of the more intangible forces have been left out. Can be think of the belayer like a really big screamer? Such as when a person falls in a crevasse you can determine with physics how much the person has to hold, but that doesn't factor in the friction of the rope on the snow etc, which abosorbs quite a bit of the forces. Newton was a hack.

"...I was one of a party of two climbing directly below this party..." ?? Good thing he didn't take y'all with him, or drop other misc. shit on ya.

I guess I have a similar need. I want something cheap and tought that can stand up to getting jammed into an offwidth crack, and block the wind, be relatively breathable, but not necessarily super waterproof. Ultralight and no hood would be great as well. I'll use the Arc'gucci gore-texxx when it's wet and raining or snowy, but something that is cheap enough to trash without feeling bad would be nice.

why is it that when I go to the chat thing it tell me someone is already using COL? it then makes me change my name.

I hear the indoor wall at REI is friendly...Since I just got back from Josh I would have to agree that the folks there are friendly, except when it comes to campsites. People can be pretty militant about that, but it's totally understandable due to the circumstances. dirty-8 prolly has that vibe cause Seattle folk go out there and have their first bolt clippin' epics and think they are hardmen/women.

I'm assuming yer talkin' about trad? The barrier thing is real a bitch. Right now I can climb about 4 grades harder than I can lead on trad. It's really frustrating, so I know what yer goin though. I guess it's question of wheter your barrier is nerves or technique, and I'm not sure how to solve either of these problems other than lots of practice and following on really hard stuff.

Josh Rocks! Highlights: Rope stuck in crack below me while rope soloing, Had to set up anchor and rap down to get unstuck. Scored a campsite with Giordie (SP?), it would have been very slim pickin's otherwise. On four seperate climbs there was noticable amounts of blood on the rock from previous climbers. Wear tape gloves (I learned this rather quickly). Climbed some fun stuff. Lead some fun stuff. Had a good ol' time. Times up. Gotta go. Toe Jam is a great lead

30 minutes.................Seee yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

At the backyard wildlife sanctuary in VanZandt that I used to work at some weasel would come to the pigeon coop at night and would kill the pigeons. I'm assuming it was for sport, since it didn't eat them. I guess it was prolly goin' for the eggs. He killed like 20 pigeon and doves. So we trapped him and released em way down the river.

They even cleaed out the holland america ship and it still made people sick.

quote: Originally posted by Fromage: How about a Bozeman-made Dana Designs Big Horn (frame size XL, for 20-24 inch torso), 3,900 cubic inches, top and side loader, dual daisy chains, compression panel for $150? Not bozeman made anymore pal. EDIT: I mean it's too bad they are not made in bozeman anymore. not that yours wasn't made there. It's just as companies grow the small batch quality sometimes goes out the window for large scale OEM manufacturing. [ 11-22-2002, 11:15 AM: Message edited by: COL. Von Spanker ]

7 hours now left for me....

I was there and some people were there then everone was gone.

quote: Originally posted by Toast: How about stickers and the effects of adhesive on the plastic? I have a Pezel Ecrin... pretty standard helmet. The packaging came with a lot of cautions, don't do this, don't do that... don't paint, don't sticker. I've seen plenty of folks out there with personalized helmets, and I'd kinda like to adorn mine (more for identification than vanity .) Thoughts? Doesn't petzl sell a "personalization" sticker kit?

I'll be on my way back from j-tree. Maybe I'll stop in and check out all the pad totin' folks get their boulder freak on.

They are also requiring that all rental snowmobiles are 4 stroke.

I'll be in PDX friday night if any of you wankers aren't too hung over lets meet up for a beer or 7...I'd like to meet some of the crew from down south.

So I think I'll save y'all the trouble... All transceivers use analog signal. Digital ones have a digital readout, analog ones have a audible signal. Digital readouts require some sort of micro-processor that samples the analog data coming into the unit, AKA 'sample rate' the sample rate wil determine how fast the data is interpreted and then displayed on the readout. So the real difference between analogue and digital modes is whether you are using the display or the audible function. And if the microprocessor is slow than there will be a lag in the time it take to move the data from analogue signal to ones and zeros to a lcd display. EDIT: I design analog and digital audio products so I don't know how often I have had to explain (and had explained to me) the difference between analog and digital signals. [ 11-20-2002, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: COL. Von Spanker ]