billcoe

Wowzer! Flung it? Wow

They were planning on 2 practice warm up laps and going for it Sunday. Han's got the block to Sickle Ledge and was up the 500 some odd feet in 16 min. !!! 16 min. Bill Wright reports that they timed 2:53:32 for their practice run. Unbelievable. Until this go round, the acronym everyone has used to describe this has been NIAD (Nose In A Day), Mark Hudon cracked this joke to better describe this effort: NIAFM (Nose In A Few Minutes) LOL!!!

Rescue happening now according to the radio. Anyone have any info? Hope it's along the lines of a twisted ankle and not something life threatening serious. Inadequate written version. http://www.kgw.com/news/local/Rescue-crews-headed-to-Mount-Hood-after-climber-fall-159030815.html At least it's great weather for a rescue operation today. They can get up there fast and safe.

Fantastic!!! Youse (honest) guys who reported them here instead of grabbing them rule!!!!

It's all about the money. Past examples of moves: Utah Jazz (formerly New Orleans- they ain't no jazz in Utah!) Los Angles Lakers (named for the state of 10,000 lakes, they ain't no lakes in So cal.) Before they were the Minneapolis Lakers they were the Detroit Gems. From Wiki: 1951: Tri-Cities Blackhawks (the "Tri Cities" area is now generally referred to as the "Quad Cities") moved to Milwaukee and became the Milwaukee Hawks. 1955: Milwaukee Hawks moved to St. Louis. 1957: Fort Wayne Pistons moved to Detroit. 1957: Rochester Royals moved to Cincinnati. 1960: Minneapolis Lakers moved to Los Angeles. 1962: Philadelphia Warriors moved to San Francisco. 1963: Chicago Zephyrs became the Baltimore Bullets. 1963: Syracuse Nationals moved to Philadelphia and became the Philadelphia 76ers. 1968: St. Louis Hawks moved to Atlanta. 1971: San Diego Rockets moved to Houston. 1972: Cincinnati Royals moved to a new primary home in Kansas City and a secondary home in Omaha, and became the Kansas City-Omaha Kings. The team ceased Omaha operations in 1975 and became the Kansas City Kings. 1973: Dallas Chaparrals moved to San Antonio and became the San Antonio Spurs. 1977: One year after the ABA-NBA merger, the New York Nets became the New Jersey Nets. Although the Nets moved within the New York metropolitan area, they dramatically changed their primary market within the area. When representing New York, they played in Nassau County on Long Island; their primary fanbase then shifted to New Jersey. 1978: Buffalo Braves moved to San Diego and became the San Diego Clippers. 1979: New Orleans Jazz moved to Salt Lake City. 1984: San Diego Clippers moved to Los Angeles. 1985: Kansas City Kings moved to Sacramento, California. 2001: Vancouver Grizzlies moved to Memphis, Tennessee. Further information: Vancouver Grizzlies relocation to Memphis 2002: Charlotte Hornets moved to New Orleans. and of course, your beloved SuperSonics.

Can't say on that. Sent the link to Scott and Mikel. No way someone bought 4 new reds from Totem and didn't use them I'd bet. Bill

Sweet! http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/Mt_Adams_escape_map.jpg (Made linkable)

I saw that video of your start of the ground up first ascent of your new route on the North Face. Damned proud and bold stuff Scotty! The video sucked except for the parts of it where you are in the frame actually climbing, and that was the shit right there. You climb right through a little water fall at the start dancing on the knobs with yer rope running behind you ...I'm sitting watching it shivering...fear? Cold? Both perhaps. I tried to send the vid down to Adam and he couldn't see it, but I described it and he said pretty much what I just said above. We argued over the length of the route once you guys finish it. He's pretty sure it's going to be 400 feet of knobjobaliciouness, I'm thinking 250-300', but I'm sure you'll let me know once you finish it. Miker photo below of the 2 half crazed warrior clansmen, the Mcdonald and the Peterson clans united. Rick McDonald (left) Scott Peterson (right). It's cool that you named it after your late buddy and climbing mentor as well. "Brother Mike".

Like. And agree on that last part too. Lil kids these dayz are amazing. Yours is certainly at the top of that group, but lots of lil kids are "rocking the walls". We won't have to wait 10 years to see a lot of new crazy stuff get climbed I'd bet. ps - if you packaged and marketed the monkey brains, gibbon sinew, etc, you'd get rich for sure, the stuff seems to work.

John Long stopped suggesting using them in 1995 or so. Even beating your old Will Gadd post that dated from 1996 Drew. I suspect he's tossed that by now as well and is advocating just using the rope you are tied into. That is all he use to climb with when he was climbing. Pretty good thread here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=729138&tn=0&mr=0 Rgold = Richard Goldstone. Largo = John Long

^^^THIS!^^^ Mugsy nails it, much faster and stronger than any cordelette. Not needed for belaying the 2nd on a long aid line. Fix and jug. Cordelettes can be real useful on long aid climbs where things get clustered up, but lots of real good aid climbers don't use them and don't want them. Mark Hudon, for instance, was recently pointing out that he has no use for them on hard El Cap routes and was showing pics of his clean looking anchors on Supertopo with just the rope and some butterfly knots. So what you are left with is that clusterfuckolettes really excel when you have multiple climbers, say, you and too many noobs. Then it's sweeter than ABS and safety belts together. IMO. Metolius makes one of the damned sweetest ones out there, as it packs down into a tiny pack you clip off to your harness for deployment, and is a badassed strong piece of webbing. Ya might choke on the price but it's real solid and worth the scratch, but if you re-read Blakes link upthread, you're back to trying to keep it simple. No clusterfuckolettes for me. Not one, and especially not 2. It's a personal choice for me. Folks can and will do what they wish of course. Good stuff.

You bet, pick choice #1. SPIDER ON WEBSITE LINK WHERE ALL IS REVEALED PS, LOVE SPIDERPIG!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111

Great story(s) Bob, thanks for sharing it!

The jean-pierre ouellet taping instructions which Jens references above can be found here. http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/2010/11/tape-gloves.html Love that Steph Davis quote from the link up thread too.

LOL - The mere though makes me Catatonic. opps, shhh, terrorist cat is not "amuzed".

The wire brushes will also have the benefit of making the problems harder. They will wear off the little rugosites and irregularities. Use of poly or natural bristles will preserve the roughness. Consideration for us V1 climbers:-) LOL

LOL, that's awesome. Once the Russians start in doing this to dogs, we'll see a real arms race.

Clearly there are 2 sides to every story. Rob would wish for larger and more effective missiles for the Palestinians. I would merely wish for peace, which is something which takes 2 to accomplish.

And the big news YESTERDAY (June 6th, 2012), LA country commissioners decided to finally rescind their forced relocation of Japanese-American resolution that dates to 1942. http://www.610wiod.com/cc-common/news/sections/newsarticle.html?feed=104668&article=10181023 To repeat: Whew, glad we are much more civilized and politically correct now. Although it says this as well: Well, no, technically Mr Watanabe, the President can now just kill you and yours, and no one will seemingly give a shit. But at least no one will have to worry about you folks being locked up. Hope, change, progress and your tax dollars at work.

Jordon had occupied the city, then attacked Israel on the 2nd day of the 6 day war. Now they are thankfully at peace. Out with the old, in with the new. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jordanian_occupation_of_the_West_Bank_and_East_Jerusalem

I use to see all kind of outrage over El Presidente Bush here as it related to everything, but especially interrogation of prisoners. Yet as this article explains, President Obama has gone right past that questionable behavior that pissed ya all off to summary execution with plenty of innocent blood splatter as well and all we see here is silence. It's interesting. http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/barack-obama-drone-warrior/2012/05/31/gJQAr6zQ5U_story.html?hpid=z2

The use of the Cramers as Sobo says, or a light coat of Benzoin, will help keep the tape from ripping your skin off when you pull the tape off and is highly recommended. Furthermore, you will start the day with some fingertip protectant. Even just a week of laps in Joshua Tree will give you bloody fingertips if you have been doing little over the winter. As far as tape brands, Johnson and Johnson is great stuff, but I actually think that regardless of brand, new (not old) is as important. If you buy too much and break if out a couple years later, (insert sad face here). As far as shaving your hands, use like a Nair cream to avoid the razor, and if you buy it in something which looks like a toothpaste tube, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR SHAVING KIT WITH THE TOOTHPASTE AND TOILETRIES OR YOUR TEETH WILL TASTE LIKE SHIT WHEN YOU BRUSH WITH IT. I still have a bad 25 year old memory of doing this exact thing in JT....22-23 hour drive straight through, wanted to brush my teeth, wasn't paying close attention: whammm. LOL! Hope someone learns form that:-0

pfft, cost?....they could keep the dirigibles floating indefinitely with just 1/2 of the hot air we give off in spray.....

How many 2000 foot unclimbed cliffs did Kukuczka or Steck stand at the base of, then just climb sans rope for a free-solo first ascent of the highest grade done with a rope at the time?

Nice links Rudy, thanks. The fall is a little past the 17:30 mark. Looks like the lad had enough time to scream, crap his pants, change his underwear and then scream again before he stopped had he so chosen.