billcoe

I know, but ya got to love that. My very first time at Squamish, about 1 mo before the trip, I'd ripped every finger tendon in my left hand. I'd tried to get on stuff in the gym right before the trip so as to stretch out my muscles and try to get a feel for the rock before the trip, but it was excruciating, so I was just going to go because I'd earlier told my buddies I would. First route - I just eyeball a line from the ground, jump on it. Fingers weren't stressed at all. After I get down my buddy Bill looks it up in the guide and it says 10d. That was back when 10d meant something....well, in Yosemite it meant something anyway:-) Sure made me feel good though.

Well hope your leg gets well soon Porter, it sucks to have to sit around - I think all of us have been there, maybe thats why K gets so cranky: and remember that you can sometimes just go laze in the sun with your buddies and maybe crank a 5.6 or 7 while it heals.

Well......real, real bad news Porter. I had my new Aliens out today and did a review of them up on the rock climbing thread. Metolius just called and said you need to get out and use the fu*ers or send them back. I'm very sorry dude! But it IS a climbing web site after all, best not to get sucked into a black hole:-) .

My opinion: I had the Mastercams and some Aliens out today and used every one. Yellow and Blue on lead (along with 5 of the Aliens same pitch) and the orange MC for the belay anchor, and they are superb......just superb. My previous post 'bout the width of the cable stem thing only proves me to be full of shit on the speculation game as that had no impact on performance and after looking at the whole no-issue carefully I don't think it will. In fact, the alien cable ass. is @ equal in size and it's never been an issue with them either. I had studied them beforehand and put the sizes in my mental bank so I would grab the correct size - hopefully the first time. My only issue came when mid-pitch on an ungraded route, feeling to be at about my limit of grade for the day, after eyeballing the crack I snatched the yellow one off, and it turned out to be the Yellow offset TCU Metlius makes which I'd also taken and mistakenly or stupidly racked right next to the Yellow Master Cam. Totally different size....I was all like WTF? Why do they do that, make one yellow big and one small? My bad for not paying attention. They have all the benefits of Aliens but none of the disadvantages (like being made by CCH:-) I wouldn't toss my Aliens to get these, but these are fine cams, and would not consider buying anything but offsets from CCH if I was in the market for this size of cam. Once Metolius makes the offsets though...there is no going back to CCH IMO. Although the cable is stiffer, it still bent fine and had no ill effect IMO. They stick just as good as Aliens too. Later, I walked around with my Yellow/Red CCH offset and compared it to the Metolius Orange (non-offset). Anywhere I could get the CCH to stick, the Metolious would place as well, which I found fairly surprising as the offsets have an advantage in some placements. Take care all

What Matt said....BTW, where Trask? Hey, see you cornholers later, I'm off for dinner.

10 month wait for a car? !!!! Wheres my car dude? _________________________________________________- "from the smart USA team Dear smart Enthusiast, Thank you for your continued interest in the smart brand. If this is your first e-newsletter – welcome to the smart USA family. These last two months have been extremely exciting for us at smart USA. After 18 months of planning and preparation, smart fortwos can be seen on roads throughout the United States. 65 smart centers have delivered over 2,000 smart fortwos into the hands of eager new owners. Your enthusiasm and support for the smart brand is much appreciated. For those who have not yet taken delivery of a smart fortwo, we understand how anxious you are and we are pleased to begin providing you with more specific information regarding the status of your individual order. Reservation Holders whose vehicles are in route from Germany should have been notified by smart USA and their dealer. For all other Reservation Holders, we will provide you with a 90 day window for your anticipated delivery. This functionality should be ready for you to use by the end of the month. Exact login instructions will be sent to you by March 31. Again, thank you for your continued interest. Kind regards, Dave Schembri President, smart USA 13.02>> the first smart delivery On January 16, 2008, smart USA was proud to make its first delivery in the United States to 25-year-old Nicholas Goddard from Manhattan, New York. Nicholas arrived at smart center Englewood early that Wednesday morning to take his red and silver smart fortwo passion cabriolet home. He was especially eager to try out the agility and maneuverability of the smart fortwo on the crowded city streets of Manhattan. The first delivery hardly went unnoticed. NBC’s “The Today Show” film crew was on scene to document this momentous occasion and share it with Americans everywhere. If you didn’t have a chance to view this special segment, please click here and enjoy! 13.03>> "green smart" Everyone knows that the smart fortwo is an incredibly environmentally friendly vehicle. But did you know HOW friendly? A smart is about half the length of the average vehicle sold in the USA, so it saves about eight feet in length. If every vehicle sold in the USA (let’s use 16 million per year) was as smartly designed as the fortwo, this would free up 24,242 miles of roadway (which is just shy of the circumference of the earth)! Here are other great facts about the “greenness” of smart. smartville People know smart is different just by driving by the smartville Production Center in Hambach, France, nestled in the green hills of the Lorraine region. The architects specified exterior surfaces to be made with a material named Trespa, 80% of which comes from fast growing European timber. They have eliminated materials like formaldehyde, CFC and asbestos, and analyzed and increased the thermal insulation of the buildings to minimize heat loss. They also collect the excess heat generated from the injection molding machines to heat the paint ovens. All the metal body stampings of smart are powder coated rather than painted. Powder coating uses 40% less energy than conventional painting methods, with zero solvent emissions and no water consumption. Powder “overspray” is collected and is 98% reusable. This is a great example of eco-friendly solutions that also provide excellent finish quality. To further promote a green working environment, smartville utilizes “just in time” production with all major suppliers integrated directly into the smart plant infrastructure. This integration reduces waste in both transporting and shipping materials to the plant, and smart ensures that the same environmentally friendly building processes apply to all supplier edifices. Beginning with the end in mind At smart, effective recycling doesn't happen after a car is used and ready for disposal — it begins with the initial design concept and fits every component into a known “lifecycle.” So, smart analyzed alternatives and chose 100% recyclable synthetics for fortwo’s dashboards and wheel housing covers. smart also determined methods to minimize the number of components used to assemble specific vehicle systems, further reducing energy and material waste during production. Examples include our dashboard air-ventilation system that was reduced from twenty separate pieces to one single molded part. Even our exterior door panels can be easily changed and recycled. smart Mission: A fully closed production cycle Recycled materials, as well as raw materials that can be reproduced, are used in the manufacturing process of every smart fortwo. Additionally, smart bans usage of poisonous metals, such as lead and cadmium, in any area of smart fortwo’s manufacturing process. Net result: Up to 95% of every smart is suitable for recycling. Not ones to rest on our laurels, the engineers at smart are targeting 100% recyclability — what is known in the industry as a fully “closed” production circle — the ultimate goal of ecological sustainability. smart and the EPA The EPA has certified all models of the 2008 smart fortwo as Tier II, Bin 5 standard, which meets the federal requirements for a fleet’s average emissions. Similarly, the vehicle is rated an Ultra-Low Emissions Vehicle (ULEV) by the California Air Resources Board. A ULEV is a vehicle that has been verified to emit 50% less polluting emissions than the average for new cars released in that model year. The EPA, through their automatic internal process has recognized and listed the smart fortwo on their Green Vehicle Guide website as a “SmartWay” vehicle. The "SmartWay" designation is earned by those vehicles that score 6 or better on each of the Air Pollution and Greenhouse Gas Scores and achieve a combined score of at least 13. Each smart fortwo model has a combined rating of 16. “SmartWay” vehicles are also good environmental performers. The smart fortwo has received an EPA Greenhouse Gas rating of 9 out of 10 (best rating is 10), and an Air Pollutant rating of 7 out of 10. The Greenhouse Gas rating of 9 puts the smart fortwo just short of a Hybrid status. There are some states that offer certain tax incentives to people that purchase environmentally friendly vehicles. Please contact your local dealer for more information. 13.04>> the smart USA collection 2008 Your enthusiasm for the smart brand and your helpful feedback in our recent merchandise survey has helped us develop a special retail merchandise collection for smart owners and enthusiasts across the country. The smart USA Collection is designed to fit your lifestyle and express excitement for this amazing vehicle. Each smart center has a special boutique area where smart enthusiasts can choose from among a variety of men’s and women’s styles, hats, keychains, model cars and other smart merchandise. For more information, visit your local smart center or download the Collection Brochure from your smart center’s website. 13.05>> we've got you covered Insurance foryou In order to provide the best possible smart ownership experience, smart USA is proud to introduce the Insurance foryou program in cooperation with Liberty Mutual and created especially for smart fortwo owners. Visit libertymutual.com/smart to learn more about the Insurance foryou program. Protection foryou We know the best thing about the new smart fortwo is driving it. Because we don’t want anything to take away from this experience, we’ve developed a suite of products designed to provide smart fortwo customers with peace of mind – ensuring you stay focused on the joy of driving. From Guaranteed Asset Protection to Wheel and Tire coverage to an Extended Service Plan, we have the products that will deliver a rewarding smart fortwo driving experience. For more information on any of these exciting protection foryou plans, talk to your smart center representative. this message was sent by smart USA Distributor LLC 1765 S. Telegraph Rd. Bloomfield, MI 48302 1.800.smart.USA www.smartusa.com Please do not respond to this email. Click here if you wish to unsubscribe. © 2007 smart USA. All rights reserved. All illustrations and specifications contained in this email are based on the latest product information available at the time of sending. smart USA reserves the right to make changes at any time, without notice, in colors, materials, equipment, specifications, and models. Any variations in colors shown are due to variations in monitor resolution. Illustrations may include test situations. Some vehicles may be shown with non-U.S. equipment. Some vehicles are shown with optional equipment. " Waiting lists suck -7 more months

Ouch.....shit dude, I think you need to get out and use your new Metolius Master cams and remember that there is still beauty in teh world.....

Scotch and Irish Whisky tastes like I'd imagine licking a combo of road tar and a Scotsmans balls would be. Except worse. That stuff sucks. I've tried a lot of different kinds and it's all bad. Bourbon, the stuff made in the US, now thats nectar......now how did this thread get her from that first post?

Damn straight, bigger than Rush's lil shriveled walnuts fer sure. Check it: full text link "...U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi gave support to the Tibetan cause on a visit to the Dalai Lama, calling China's crackdown "a challenge to the conscience of the world." Her criticism added to a chorus of international concern over Beijing's harsh response to the anti-government protests, as China sought to blame supporters of the Tibetan spiritual leader for unrest that is posing the biggest challenge in two decades to Beijing's control of Tibet. "If freedom-loving people throughout the world do not speak out against China's oppression in China and Tibet, we have lost all moral authority to speak on behalf of human rights anywhere in the world," Pelosi told a cheering crowd in Dharmsala, India, seat of the Dalai Lama's government-in-exile...." It would have been even bigger had she spoken it from Bejing. Good on her.

Another politician who leads with his Penis....at least Hillary isn't sleeping around with women.....Opps, I heard news to the contrary, better cross it off. At least Hillary won't be leading with her penis.

Almost DD, my wife and I equally share the basement.....I get 800 sq feet and she gets the other 200.

Arch, I busted all the tops just trying to open them, now I just lay them on top, they don't seal though.

No, it is at least a million dollars. I just read that Larry Flint offered her 1 million dollars to strip for a Hustler shoot, on top of the $200,000 shes made on her music downloads. Chics working hard, although I find the whole thing nearly a ho-hum non-yawn=event and kind of silly. Nice pic Kev. full link "Eliot Spitzer's prostitute Ashley Alexandra Dupre is cashing in on the sex scandal. The budding singer, 22, may have already banked an estimated $200,000 from online music downloads, the New York Post reports. Dupre - who charged the disgraced New York Governor more than $4,000-a-month for her services - made two of her tunes, "What We Want" and "Move Ya Body," available for purchase as 99-cent downloads on music site Amie Street shortly after the scandal broke. (Musicians can earn a 70 percent cut on download fees.) "What We Want," a pulsating dance tune, was also added to New York's Z100 playlist on Thursday (she first streamed it on her MySpace page, which has gone on to receive more than 7 million hits). But after listener response was low, it was yanked out of rotation, though it was still heard on the station as of late Friday. Should her music career not take off, Dupre will have no problem finding gigs to fall back on, says Hustler Publisher Larry Flynt. (Hustler offered her $1 million to pose Friday.) "She is no doubt going to do a book. There will probably be a movie," he tells the Associated Press. "I think she is going to have so many offers coming in that it will probably be wishful thinking just to get in the door."

I'm not sure if I am interpreting this correctly. Are you implying the old, "All women are whores, but this hooker is more honest than all those other bitches"? Not at all: I said "this tart would have been significantly further ahead financially if she'd been banging Paul McCartney. Of course, instead of just being a common whore, then she'd also be "Lady" Mrs McCartney afterwards as well and made much $ more per sexual gratification experience. " So this girl, lets call her Ms #9, was and is much more honest and much more upfront, in my opinion, than a woman like Lady Paul and many others like her type. So what I am saying is that I have more respect for Ms #9, who is honest and upfront about it, and working hard to make a buck - than "Lady" McCartney's type... Well - maybe there aren't any others like that "type", perhaps I was just overstating again..... Hey look, a pic of Anna Nicole and her former 89 year old Billionaire husband. Damn she's hot..... I think she must be helping him out by using that experienced, hot, wet, tongue and licking those old disgusting liver spots off his face again....sweet girl. So thoughtful. I'm sorry, got off track, now what were you saying? Oh, "types" of women. They say it takes all types, and thats a lot of different types, I'm pretty sure. I don't know why you think I'm referring to all women - I'm not, not at all, as there are too many different types to generalize here. But Anna Nicole fits right in there....I'm not gonna make a list, but she'd be on my top 10.

Yeah I agree Arch, this tart would have been significantly further ahead financially if she'd been banging Paul McCartney. Of course, instead of just being a common whore, then she'd also be "Lady" Mrs McCartney afterwards as well and made much $ more per sexual gratification experience. I think at least this girl is working hard for it and except for the age thing is much more upfront than many other women.

I have see through rubbermaid boxes and milk carton plastic thingies that I keep organized by category. So one is aid gear like pins, hammers, hooks, aiders and jugs in one. Free climbing lead gear in another, and toprope stuff like beater biners, nuts and short rope sections in another. Then I just toss the $5,000 + worth of stainless steel bolting shit like Fixe chain anchors and bolts which I bought to piss Dwayner off all over the place. Nah, really, I put most of that stuff in old empty wooden French wine cases which I had earlier turned into piss without his help. Ropes are all in rope bags stacked to the ceiling next to empty backbacks.

Ordered the Metolius Master Cams yesterday @ noon on their web site and requested ground shipping (est 4-10 days per order form), they showed up the next day. They rule - they absolutely rule. Especially since it's suppose to be nice weather outside in 2 days.

They just came in they just came in! Whoooo friggan whooooo. Thats fast! 1st) The fit and finish is world class suburb. It's Metolius, so I expect you could fall all day: you and your truck, and be fine. HOWEVER, I wasn't prepared for how wide the cable assembly of the trigger is. I hadn't read anything about it, and I'd read all the reviews I could find. I suspect that there will be problems in certain placements where the width of this material will be interfering with the placement where a crack even narrows just a bit. All of them have this, but on the #1, the area next to the main cable starting 1-3/4" and extending to 3" below the business end of the cams towards the triggers measures .42", and thats on a piece which is designed to fit in a .50" (1/2") crack! Look at the side view, not the top view and you'll get this figured out at a glance. I don't think it's an Alien killer yet. Better made product? YES, hands down. Alien Killer? No. This excessive width thing could be a huge negative issue functionally speaking. We'll see as time goes on what the actual effect, if any, this has. It is more significant on the small piece. (I got the 1,2 and 3) I suspect it has no functional effect on the #3. However, these are the most common sizes for me. Larger than that a reg. cam seems to work most of the time. Hope to get them out soon to see. Race you Porter:-) Cya!

SS, anyway, they say dirt bikers are invariably trad practitioners. Agree with your sediments and wonder now what's next? You can't talk to them about riding in an off limits place because the US is involved and in Iraq? Uhhhh, OK

Click the link

Pretty inflammatory, you on a new crusade or sumpin? Sport climbers in yee olden times:

Win-Win defined.

God willing? God willing they will all show up and dawg the easy routes with Fifi Hooks attached to their nards.

As the date approaches, I just looked at this again. The public meeting which I referenced above is for a different project. There appears to be no public opportunities for public comment after the one noted in 2004 on the web site for the SR14 Marble road - Cape Horn project. This may be a done deal already. I have emailed wdot requesting contact information. It is possible that the project may not impact the zone at all, maybe some of you can look at the project specifics closely. A careful examination of the map shows that there is a gap where it appears they are not working on or changing the road....... The non colored area on the WSDOT map is where the zone is - its right across from the Oregon View Road there. Kind of hoping someone with half a brain steps up, figures this out and takes care of this......although it appears that the tags on the trees through there may not affect anything. Thoughts? WSDOT link Tim, thanks for the Stevenson accessors info. Bryan, BTW, congrats on the baby!

Ditto on the artical!