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Everything posted by billcoe
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This thread needs a picture of some granite now.
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You bet. In fact it may be number 1831 listed on page 29 on my list of regrets! You'll have one of these long lists later. I think we all do if we live long enough:-) I wanted to live my life saying: "I will have no regrets later". I tried to focus on being a father and a provider and still wound up with a bunch of things I regret anyway. Sigh... I guess life is quite the trade off that way. Really, I think ropes got longer and it gets done in a single long pitch now. Then we were looking at a hanging belay with the leader heading directly above the belay on the crux. As he was one of the top free climbers in the world then, that would have been his pitch and I would have been the sitting duck belayer. I had done that route on aid a couple of times by then, and Bob had once led that second pitch and almost landed on me when a piece pulled ( We owned no cams that size, Steve Byrne may have just come out with his underground/garage made TCU to avoid the Jardine patents on cams but I didn't own any). Anyway, Alan was a great climber and a real good person too, I think it was OK cause he did get do the FFA later anyway but don't have a guidebook in front of me now to be sure. Lester and Watts use to say "No Guts, No Glory" all the time to each other:-), I think it showed in the things they were working at the time. I'd heard that Alan Watts was not climbing anymore, but supporting his son who is some kind of competitive skateboarder. Last thing I remember reading about Lester, who had moved to Boulder to go to college, was that he was up doing the 2nd ascent or ffa of some South Face of 1/2 Dome horror show when his partner fell and got messed up so bad they called out YOSAR and the helicopters. (I probably screwed that story up) Any how, that's a real real sweet picture Rudy!
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Well shit, lets all go crash at his place then!
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He's no stranger to Trout and I am sure he's a more widely traveled rock climber than anyone else posting here. Well - dude sounds sharp, you're screwed then. He won't be heading this way for either the food, ambiance, rain or the routes. You should just go see him, Dolomites will be warm and awesome, along with the great ambiance and sightseeing stuff his way.
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One tool will work most days, especially if the snow is soft like now. I always thought that an avilaunch when the snow was deep would be quite the ride from up high, and maybe not just very survivable, but fun.
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No hard feelings, besides, I hear he's better lookin too:-) I'll still climb with you anytime I'm around and you need a belay. Rumr, I got drug out by Alan Lester to shoot for the FFA of that route. I wussed out. Wish I hadn't as I was climbing pretty strong at the time. Great pic, looks warm too!
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I was trying to steer it the other direction........like post a pic of Smith and lets see what sunshine looks like again.
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Show him some pics like this and don't talk about the food here:
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Andrew Trzynka, I think he's on Goldrush.
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Here's the link to the Trout Creek guidebook Jeff Wenger put out. Good book. It just got updated recently too. Great place to climb if you like harder than hell painful cracks. I suspect even Dru, the anti tape maestro would immediatly convert to tape after less than a pitch:-) Guidebook I think it's better to share the more remote locations so as to spread the load. I can't imagine this place getting over crowded, as it takes as long to get on rock as it takes to get on rock at Smith, and Smith has so much more variety.
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Last issue of Climbing too: Phillip (CC.com Spray avatar Phillygoat) and Pat McCarthy had pretty good pics of themselves in it. Theres a recent thread on CC.com too titled: "Tired of Spray in the Climbing Forums" which touches on the beauty and supreme crackicity of the place as well. I agree with the OP, it isn't and doesn't need to be a secret anymore. As Cobra Commander says and links, there is a guidebook. Hey- I clicked that link Cobra Commander and that weren't no guidebook buck- O!
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kbone -How many bones are running around on this site anyway? I think you use your judgment. I mean, I own an 18 fall full sized 11mil rope thats only 50meters long and used primarily for rapping to clean and toproping, it gets pressed into service as a lead line if a route gets cleaned and it's the rope sitting there - and I own a 9.2mm 5-fall Beal Joker that has a significantly shorter shelf life. I store them all in rope bags on a shelf in my basement. They're all different. The last 11mil I owned, I used it for 8 or 9 years for toproping, but retired some primarily lead ropes during that time which progressed from being lead ropes/topropes, to being only topropes, to being cut up for use as hand lines, tow lines and slings for topropes. "When in doubt......throw it out" is the rule. Even not knowing the size, I don't think I'd have an issue climbing on your rope for toproping as long as you've kept it in a ropebag off the battery acid on the ground, and the sheath still looks good and not too furred. BTW, recent posts from the president of the German alpine association has suggested that you don't have to worry about older ropes...but the testing and reports have some gaping holes IMO. Toproping use, which tears a rope up more than most other uses, was one of them.
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Oregon SAR Statutes and Traditional Responsibities
billcoe replied to trad_guy's topic in Climber's Board
I'm OK with the statute. It only specifys charging climbers for a rescue. I'd like to backup just a tad: My question is this: why should the state be the self-appointed babysitter for climbers? In my mind, they have no business being in the rescue business. -
Anyone here know Jim Robinson? Let him know that his sister Debbie is looking for him.
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Gent last spring
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Peruvian surfing cat:
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Whoa whoa whoa there buddy!!!!!!!! easy up on the ageism .... and the fatass who can't get off the couch thing too OK? Lets not get too personal OK? It's ok to be an old fatass couchmaster hey?!! Group hug.
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SHhhhhhhhhhh, SC, hey tone it down will ya, thats the best pic I've seen in a long time, lets encourage it staying around hey?
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Don't see it Ivan. I could see it would make a good point to your story. I see lots of other interesting things though: ----wait---got it right here: ______________________________________________________ Who can photoshop Beacon in there?
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Is that not a perfect cartoon? 111, don't be talkin about murdering anyone, it's bullshit. Besides, I thought you had this going on: You should be paying attention to things that are important to you.
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Okay you dumb cunt, here is your run on sentence. According to this poorly constructed attempt, you are saying that both things are irritating. Ouch!
