billcoe

I would recommend avoiding watching that You-tube post of her "Working" that aid roof at Smith for months Dawg, AFTER it had been done on aid many times, then after it was Rap bolted, then after it was toproped into submission, then after that it got "worked" good for a few months to become a free route. I can see your standard in women (or as this was a LaSportiva press release to support their "sponsored" climber, your standards in press releases) is higher than that!

_____________________________________________________________ What happened a bit later right after my post? Who made the call...Who made this call BABBBY! Who's yer daddy? Whooo friggan whoooo! Look, even lil Dawg, who is already embarking on his new job as an Sport bolter-setter looks happy at Big Dawgs predictably quotient. Don't ya think??

Good advice, I can highly recommend Dave Stephens if he'll go for it. ________________________________________________________ Bet you'd like to see the other 4...:-0 Oh, its a sickness for sure. And when Joseph makes those A5 wall hammers I'll be standing in that line to get one as well if possible.

Gonna put some rehashed stuff here: 503-823-3333, the police non-emergency line. ________________________________________________________ From last year: the much ridiculed and slightly modified "Terms and conditions" or disclaimer, or early season heads up. Hi all: Sunshine, finally. Looking forward to this. Short technical note: I figure that posting my rant thing here for everybody, just once, might be better than PMing everyone. As it’s a new year, with new folks, I want to restate my terms and conditions. Sorry if you heard this before. I don’t know the skill levels of people who will randomly just be showing up to hang, climb and belay so I’ll repeat. I only have 1 major issue. Safety. As such, I give and expect 100 percent perfect belays. 100 percent perfect means: good communication, ground checks for every climber/belayer, and brake hand on the rope ground to ground round trip for any climber off the deck who thinks they are on, or should be on, belay. If you've ever seen a person dropped by their belayer, you witnessed a less than perfect belay. Might have been a 99 percenter, hard to say, but it was less than 100 percent. 1 really don't give a rats ass if you can outclimb me, welcome to a huge club if like most people you can. I don't care. I don't want to hear anyone say it's just top roping or short climbs either. I choose to be safe and as part of that refuse to climb with anyone who expects to do less. If you don’t like what I’m saying here, don’t show up. Last year the rescue crews were called out for 10 cliff incidents, most in the area we will be in. Every Fucking one of which was avoidable, except that somebody chose to not be safe. Don’t think this can’t or won’t happen to you. I once carried out one of the most experienced Oregon climbers who had just finished the easy White Rabbit 5.3 down climb and while turning on relatively flat ground, banana-peeled on the wet mud and seriously pitched. The hospital stay was like a month or so with the broken ribs, punctured lungs, surgery to remove the spleen and permanent pins added to the wrist a week into the stay with more surgery. No one is immune and it’s a choice we can make. I free solo out here sometimes and it always shocks and surprised that rare person who sees me toping out - I’m fine with you doing so too, best not this time of year with this group please, let’s let it dry out and clean off some. I don’t want to teach belays either. If you don’t have your Sh*T together, don’t come out expecting that somebody will help you to get it together. Make arrangements with somebody else some other time, I’d rather solo. I like to get set up efficiently and rapidly to get maximum time to get pumped. That might mean running up 3 laps in a row without untying and/or down climbing. Given the time constraints, it’s not a good time to be dogging a route unless you have a belayer who’s toasted out and done in, and nobody is standing at the base: rock shoes on foot tapping hoping for another shot before dark. You want to smoke a bowl or drink some beers, pretty common and fine by me, stay in control and don’t get sparks on my rope or (more) glass on the ground is all I've ever asked. If you haven’t choked and blown spit on your screen due to my arrogance thus far heres some more: Communication from the top to the bottom can very difficult anywhere we head, the big three from closest to furtherst is RButte, Broughtons and Ozone. Specifics at the Butte: there is some white water rapids or something further below at the butte, and the continued roaring sound never abates and is very difficult to overcome. The hand signal for advising a belayer that you are over the edge, tied in safe and can be taken off belay is a wave of the hand for instance. Planning the hand signals in advance is a good idea. If my finger points down and makes a circular motion after I've topped out, that means please lower me. A fist means stop. Might want to clean some crap off so your trip up is cleaner, or perhaps reclimb a section that felt particularly great or difficult. As there is plenty of slippery wet mud early in the year, leaves and winter moss buildup, safety rules no matter where we are. Tieing a fixed line off a fir and rap to the ledge below even if it's an easy downclimb in the summer may be not just appropriate but smart. It might be dry, but probably not. Bringing headlamps anywhere we wind up isn't a bad idea either, and it can give us a bit more climbing time. I have beater rope and don’t mind getting sap on it. You show up and see a rope tied to a fir, feel free to rap on it as it's probably mine, don’t feel the need to ask permission if you don't see anyone, we're all climbers here. Side note about Rocky Butte: out there it's common to see a single party have 2, 3 or 4 climbs set up, tradition is that you can climb on their ropes. Nice to ask first. If you feel insecure on a single line rap and want a fireman’s belay, glad to do it, flip the rope around till some enquiring person at the base walks over below you and looks up, point or shout and we’ll pull on it to slow you down if you have a crappy rap device and/or hate single rope raps. Tossing an identical sized 2nd carabiner in most atc devices helps slow you down too. Conversely, if you want to lead or not lead but just follow or TR, thats good as well. For the Butte, it had been a active rock quarry, many of the anchors are into large blocks. We had a winter with some freezing; I always, but especially now, like to back up all the anchors with a backup rope tied solid to a fir or a rock further back. I have plenty of sections of retired ropes to do this. Bring your climbing ropes and personal gear, some lockers and such if you have it. Should be plenty of gear and ropes if you don’t own that stuff, so no worries. There are still some blocks at Ozone that may have done the freeze thaw thing as well. Rapping off, before hand communication with the base and trundling is an accepted practice as long as you have cleared the area before hand, and having a walkie takie or cell phone conversation isn't a bad idea if the rock is bigger than a fist and you think it's going to be headstrong and go it's own way. Someone needs to pry the microwave sized sucer off the 5.7 in the center of Ozone sooner or later, might as well be you, and sooner, not later, and planned. Have a warm jacket and water in your pack too, as soon as the sun goes down it's cold. If you want some early season warm up bouldering, you might drive to the top of the butte and jump on some of the short man-made stuff up there. It's pretty good. Have fun, be safe. PS, 2-4 is a great number of folks, I usually bag off if I see lots of cars and it's a big group, please don't be offended if that occurs. It's me, not you, sometimes for no apparent reason I will just walk past you to be solo just because I want to get my freak on alone. It's me, not you.

Working on my thread revival skillz. Someone noted that "spring forward shit and fall back in it" AKA gobment savings time AKA F*cking with the clocks happens this Sunday. So, darkness will be 7:30 pm starting next week. Gobment time 2008 Starts- March 9 Ends - November 2 How about a show of hands: anyone interested in reviving the after work laps Tue and Thus this year? Seems like the annual tradition is that last years generation burns out and a new crop of losers gapers posers ...errr, I mean real climbers , show up yearly. For myself, I'm thinking 1/2 a day Wednesdays may be a possible thing as well in addition to the tue-thurs sufferfest. After burning off work early and hanging out alone the other day, in response to the usual after work question the other day of "Hi honey, you're late today, where were you", I looked at my wife and said: "Took off work early, climbing......its my year ya know...". Going on 28 years together, she warmed my heart as she looked back and said "yes, it is...." At that very moment my 17 year old, the youngest, was on an airplane, in the air, heading to Japan for an extended trip. Just sayin...it's my year. Show of hands....who wants to do what and when? Pat McCarthy doesn't post online, but he had said he had mon-tues off. Maybe a Tuesday off day?...

Nader Oh wait, he's for the republicans. __________________________________________________ added: wrong guess per internet search.

I wouldn't think he'd be half baked:-)

Raindawg can still weigh in soon with a groupie post.... 3.........2...............1.................

I've got that figured out. The flags are a WDOT project where they are spending almost $10 million in 2 phases to widen the road through there to straighten it out a bit, make it safer, wider and handle the load better. They are starting the surveying and land acquisition now and the construction will be in 2010. I have not heard or seen of anyone messing with any of the tags.....hopefully no one does.

One more piece of advice, suggest you get a compentant, experienced partner for these mini-expeditions you do. have fun!

Jamin gets out into the far wilderness. He's not talkin about bolting sport routes if previous discussions enter into it. Here's the story jamin. For remote, rarely climbed areas, 1/4" diameter still gets used, but hangers are getting hard to find. So you might as well get a 3/8 x 6" SDS drill bit with a carbide tip. That's what fits that holder. You can get 5" of depth on that bit, although they say 4" in the literature, it is exactly a Red C$#@ hair over 5". I would think that a hammer like Forrest use to make would be the shizzel for you. It's lighter than a wall hammer, but will serve you well, buy one off ebay and make sure you get the picks you want. They have like 4 or so, including a round Lowe style water ice one. Forrest Moljinar top, Forrest wall hammer, Kong Eagle bottom. The top one is the Forrest you want, see the screws? You can change picks for what you want to do. Thats the rock pick on that one, for scraping crap out of cracks and knocking out hexes:-) It won't work as well for you as a stand alone ice hammer on ice, or as good a standard wall hammer on a wall, but you don't want to be carrying that weight anyway for the stuff you do, and you can change picks and use it as a 3rd tool for steep snow or ice as they are light. For hangers, if you are doing the remote climbs, Stainless Mad rocks will work and are lighter, I have some and think they suck next to the Fixe (which I like the best), but the Fixe are heavy. Use a stainless steel wedge anchor. If you are on Granite, you can get by with @ 2" length, for basalt go longer. You might carry a couple of sizes as you may be in a hurry and have to stuff a short bolt in in an emergency just to get down something: late in the day, bad weather or totally wasted kind of thing. Don't buy a Fixe 10mm bolt and think that a 3/8" drill bit will do the job. Both must be 3/8" or both must be 10mm. I'd recommend going out with some one and watching them do a bolt, but basically you tap (hit but not hit hard) then turn the holder 1/8-1/4 or so of a turn, tap turn tap turn, till you get a hole. Clean the hole by blowing the hole out with a straw and or a brush. ( you can skip this, but you might get an occasional spinner) Put the hanger washer and nut on, tap it in, tighten it down to spec. Spec on a 3/8" is 25-30 foot lbs per most Mfgs, but check the Mfg specs. I still use a torque wrench if it's gonna be a popular route and it's easy to transport there. A 6 in Cresent wrench real snug is right in there. Don't over tighten as it will weaken it. Check out this ASCA web site for more info. Where are you located? the web is a good place to buy this crap, but maybe you have someone local? PDX had Climbmax, if they don't have it they'll order it for you. Check out this site for more info: ASPCA site Lastly, be VERY judicious where you put one in, as people get yanked if you are on an existing route and put one in.

I thought you hated that place Joseph! About noon I'd heard that the weather was going to be wet for this weekend and with some office encouragement got the hell out for the afternoon. It worked out OK as I just wanted to be getting my freak on alone anyway. Man, it would have been a great day at Beacon.

Well, thats unexpected, this being spray and all. Welcome back to humanity:-) I'll give you a solid belay anytime you show up in these parts for a first date. My last regular partner was 2 steps this side of an environmental freak (read that ELF member) but we got along great even in the darkest of times. It made for some spirited discourse (like 12 hour argument on government policies concerning water resources and allocation in the western US on a trip to Yos once), but it was all good.

Me too. BTW, we can tell you're real as you started out dissing on this group of yahoos early:-)

Regardless of if it is classified terrorism or not (I think thats way over the top), the main point Robert, is this: You are walking away from the rule of law, and saying that this is OK for an individual to make a choice to arbritarily decide, because they are offended, to torch and destroy another's property because of any perceived real or imagined offense. By accepting that this is OK, you are saying it is fine for any other another with some perceived real or imagined offense to arbitrarily torch your car. If it happens to spread to your home, well, thats probably offensive as well to that person for some similar reason so thats fine with you. You understand, of course, that only rich folks like those in this country drive cars, and you are offending some random dickhead by owning a car, so if it's OK for the rule of any random dickhead to prevail over there and burn those homes down, then YOU are OK having a guy burn your car and house up some night. Your insurance will cover it. All you homeowners car owners are rich. That is the difference between us, you somehow think its OK to ruin a mans life who's been struggling to be a builder and build nice homes that are needed and wanted. Well, it also means that it's OK for that same dickhead to target you and yours next. I find that abhorrent to me Rob, and it makes me sick, angry and against everything I know about truth and justice. Just so you know - I hate urban sprawl, hate it. By way of backing up my words and thoughts, I have personally put more time and money into increasing density - in my backyard, not in another mans, than you could imagine. BTW, in case anyone gives a rats ass what I drive, last car, Civic, got traded in on a CR-V as I needed the extra room to make deliveries for my company. It's been getting 23-28 MPG, less than the civic, which had 180,000 miles on it....and I still miss it. My point is, lets see if you can cheer so lustily and so loudly when they come some night and burn up all your shit.

not really. we sell more aliens than tcu's at the shop i work at by a significant amount. i have used the new metolius cams and i agree they're good, i just don't think they're a finished product that should be on the market yet. IMHO, metolius has been going down hill at a rapid pace since they discontinued their original tcu and put out the ultralights. Mark, thank you for the heads up. I spent some time climbing with one of the folks who helped design the thing in the valley last year, and that person has huge cred. in my eyes. I trust your thoughts on this more than most of the folks on this site, so I'll do a wait and see on the new Master Cams, that and I already need to sell some Aliens cause I have too many. I wonder how much of your shops Alien sales would have formerly been REI and MGEAR purchases, 2 large company's of many who no longer sell the CCH Alien product. I've raged on the failures of the post-recall "tested" Aliens before so I'll spare everyone that rant, but it still pisses me off.

The people who will be feeling this particular pain is the poor, who will be forced to move to transportaionly (made that up) undesirable areas ...shacks in the hinterlands so to speak. Someone paying 2 mill for a home will be driving past the shacks in the Hummer and still paying $5 a gallon for gas. You dumb mf prick assholes who support this thing: I find your attitude: that the rule of law is not good enough for you, and that it's fine with you that any angry asswipe with a bic lighter gets to make the rules and risk life and property, abhorrent of the first order. Had the fire spread to the nearby woods then houses with low income families and burned some poor child or killed some of the firefighters who responded.....Jesus H Christ you dudes are fucked in the head. So when some other disagreeable shithead comes to burn your house down for some other imagined "offense" in his head, I hope you remember these words. If you really think increasing inner city density is a good thing, as I do, then put your money where you mouth is. Build inner city yourselves, and get involved to increase density and exclude growth on farmland.

Sounding judgmental there Choada Boy? At last Dawg wasn't personally attacking you. Looks like somebody needs a bong hit to mellow out. Builder, thats classic!

Holy crap, one of the surviving Magna Cartas is still in private hands! Full text from here: God must have blessed this guy for sure link "WASHINGTON (CNN) -- An investment executive who paid more than $20 million for an original, handwritten copy of the Magna Carta presented the ancient paper Monday to the media and plans to loan it to the National Archives. People photograph the rare copy of the Magna Carta before it's auctioned at Sotheby's New York in December. David Rubenstein, the founder of the private equity company Carlyle Group, was the top bidder during a December auction at Sotheby's, and said buying it and displaying it is a way "to show my appreciation for the country which has been very good to me." The National Archives considers the manuscript "a milestone in constitutional thought" from the 13th century, and plans to place it on public display later this month. Rubenstein in the 1970s was the chief lawyer for a Senate panel that reviewed constitutional amendments. He said Thomas Jefferson referred to the "inspiration of the Magna Carta" as he and others drafted the Constitution and the Bill of Rights. The original Magna Carta was signed in 1215. Rubenstein's is one of four remaining copies of the document commissioned by the King of England in 1297 to establish basic human rights as part of English law. A scholar's contemporary translation of the Latin describes the right of the country's people "to be free and to have all its rights fully and its liberties entirely," as among the 37 principles described in the Magna Carta. Rubenstein, before founding the Washington-based Carlyle Group, was also a domestic policy adviser during the Carter administration. He is from Baltimore, Maryland. The fragile paper is displayed in a sealed viewing box to protect it from damage. Sotheby's auctioned the document on behalf of the Ross Perot Foundation, which had purchased it in the 1980s from a British family who had kept the document for the previous 500 years. "It has a few wrinkles," Rubenstein told reporters. "Any of you who are 700 years old, you'd have a few wrinkles as well, but for something that's as old as it is, it's in very good shape, and I know that it will be kept in excellent shape, hopefully for another 700 years." The Magna Carta will be on public display starting March 12 in the West Rotunda Gallery of the National Archives Building."

Smiley face. opps, wrong one.

I'm sure they'll get to that when they're done waterboarding the developers who made the mistake of thinking they were building some houses that some fortunate homeowner families would just love. Now those families who were thinking of buying those homes will be forced to move into Robs parents basement with Rob.

Decristos must be the short

The several fixed pieces on Bishops overhand in the valley. What started as a thin LA pin crack gradually widend as it was beaten out and made it to about a round 3" bong size when in the late 70's, as clean climbing ushered in, someone pounded in and fixed several nuts: the largest - the biggest hex, a #11 Chouinard hex in the biggest hole. Don't know who fixed it, but it had to be the worlds first giant bashie.

burn it It serves the same function as the larger homes, you should show your support for these wankers and burn your own house down Rob, put your money where your mouth is and let it start at your home. Clean up your own environment buddy. Let us know what you feel afterwards, I'm curious. BTW, the current penalties for charges of domestic terrorism is way over the top and harsh in my book.