billcoe

Wait whats that sound in the background up there? Holy Shit, it sounds like fish screaming.....

Best post in a long while goes to Marcus: Even more remarkable in that she was working all those hours for free to try and help. I got to be with Kellie for a few of the cleanups and she was always a well organized joy to be around. ________________________________________________________________________ Well, Raindawg showed up, so it's a bolt thread now. I don't understand why an area that has no cracks can't have bolts according to you Raindawg? Maybe you just need to get out and climb some more. (climb at all?) Imagine a 400' high cliff that is crackless. You are advocating no climbing there. You are fine with them cutting a huge swath through the forest, blasting rocks and bulldozing massive amounts of dirt for a new road that can be seen from the next planet over, but a small f*ucking bolt that you cannot even see from 40 meters away.....(insert head shaking in angry disbelieve wide mouthed at the stupidity of your attitude emoticon here) I just don't get it. AT ALL.

I wouldn't say I am questioning the rope's integrity as much as I am questioning the veracity of the statement that 5 year old ropes should be retired. If I hadn't read that I would have never given it a second thought to head out to the crag and top rope on it. I am really wondering how much damage time does compared to usage. The President of the German Alpine club seems to say the same thing here. It's all about USE, not years. Check this out: UIAA artical on the aging of climbing ropes

As in Pete’s Pile? Pete’s “Pile” is a good name for that place. I love Pete's, I always seem to have it to myself too, can't complain about that. Hey, good bumping into you and Crimper in the woods today! Looked like Jim was further out checking out the Cape Horn trail today. You might ask him about it. I think theres gonna be some routes down there on those lower cliffs at some point. CH 4 is what that surveyor stake says at Ozone. "Mayhaps CH 4 = Cape Horn 4" ??

U of O, but again, why are you limiting it to those 2 schools? I thought that the Western States scholarship would get you in any western school that participates so that you pay the same tuition as a local in state would pay. For instance, my daughter goes to the University of Hawaii, and pays less tuition that at either U of O or OSU. People from Hawaii, can come here and pay slightly more (one of the cousins did this and went to OSU), but it's the same price as in state tuition. With that in mind, whats that school in Boseman, Mt? Or how about Boulder, Colo or somewhere close to Yos?

John: Consider getting a like a Jeep Cherokee as a second vehicle. The mileage isn't horrendous, and the jeeps haul a lot. The Liberty, which is a small little comp to my Honda, gets worse mileage, but as a second vehicle you won't be using it except for some winter trips eh? Maybe some springtime mudding? By a low model used one as the Jeeps depreciate fairly fast. My memory is that the little Liberty tows 5500 lbs but gets 17mpg. Honda CR-V, at the same size but 23 mpg, was like 800lbs or some equally damn lightweight thing like that. Good luck: B

I can relate. I returned a rope of mine last summer to REI and they were great to me. I'd gone out to clean a new line, and bought 4 of these things. ROPE PROTECTORS I'd used them a few times just toproping and protecting it over an edge and they worked just like they said they would work to keep the abrasion off the rope. Great shit. The REI web-site text says: (they misspelled from, that wasn't me) "Protect your rope form the wear and tear of abrasion and sharp edges. Easy-to-place Spiroll extends the life and reliability of your rope. *It self-wraps around the rope for a snug fit--no need to tie it off" So I went to clean off a new line and hung on for over 10 hours that day. I had protected the only place where the rope was in contact with the rock, but all the bouncing up and down up and down all day had slipped the Spiroll protector back like a foreskin on a hard Penis, and although I had looked up a few times at the rope, as the protector was lower than the contact with the rock, it appeared to me that my rope was still covered where it was in contact but it wasn't protected at all as it turns out. At the end of the the day, there was a huge white core shot spot where my not-that-old of a rope had rubbed on the rock all day. The rope was beyond trashed. Damn I was pissed. Once my testicals dropped back down as the fear of a rope failure subsided and I had burned in anger for a while after telling some folks this story. After hearing from more than one person the same thing ie, return it to REI, I did, they replaced it and I cannot tell you how good that felt. The guy just tells me, dude, go pull the rope of your choice off the wall and it's yours. Man...my anger soooo dissipated...........like... immediately. So I know that feeling. The moral of my story is don't use these rope protectors (they are a great thing BTW) and hang on a rope all day bouncing and jugging without duct taping them down, like I should have done then anyway - except that I believed the marketing hype. That was just last summer, I have a new bi-color Mammut now.....

Spike, what does your company do?

You get pro deals on salt and pepper mills! Wow!

Looks like a Whale Shark.

You legs will be totally Pwned, but you also avoid all chance of Crevasses going that way. Soloing from Timberline and crossing the glacier always disturbed me, but as I was up there a lot screwing around all summer, in PDX pre-planning mentally for it, I thought I knew where they were and could avoid them. Then you get up there at 2-3am or some godforsaken time and its dark and you don't have a clue...but get lucky anyway. I love that route. You can get pretty steep pretty fast but get back to the car in fairly shit weather anyway. Doh! (the first time you solo it you are too stupid about the crevasses and do it anyway, thinking that it's pretty stupid as you are doing it as you are rembering the summer gaping maws that were somewhere right there but you do it anyway cause....cause you need to climb something and you're already there) Doh! (2nd time cause you forgot about the fear the first time caused till you're staring at the abyss, then do it anyway thinking it's early enough and cold enough) Doh - 3rd time you bring the dog and the girlfriend (later your wife of 29 years) sleep over at 7000 feet all warm and snuggly in your Gerry year-round tent, THEN you remember as you are walking away from your 2 loved ones still in the tent about the potential crevasses under the snow. Fortunately- the dog follows you and you bag the climb and head back to the warm sleeping bag because...'cause of the dog. Right. Doh! Better to do it your way. Nice call.

Are you saying that you are not going to put it in the new guidebook? I think putting out a "guidebook" might not be a good thing. The place is already crowded, and Jim hands out a route list already to people he meets and likes.....(I already spoke my thoughts on that to him)

Thanks, I have 3 maybe 4 more Nut tools in my basement which didn't make the picture. BTW, I think I just bought some of those Aliens you have hanging there:-) BTW, check out Hendershot up there: he's getting ready to take a nap while she carries all the gear!

I don't know if desire for control is the case, although that seems to be part of it. I think more than most places, Beacon causes peoples hearts to fall in love with something at the place. There are kindred spirits out there, and many people can intuitively feel this. I do. I know others do as well. I believe that part of the thoughts running through folks minds is the desire to be there to feel and protect that feeling, for themselves and for the spirits: as well as for other climbers in the future. I did not think I was being coy Peter. This thing got hammered on this site already like a dead horse when he put the thing in. When it came up on the other thread (and it being winter and all) I pulled it over here to separate the issue from that thread. Truthfully, I'm ambivalent and hardly care either way, but tend to think folks were ripping JH a new one needlessly or at least excessively at that time. They did have a point that he didn't follow protocol for new bolts out there, but *cough* guilty*cough* some of the rest of us shouldn't be throwing stones at glass houses on that issue if you catch my drift. Thats correct BTW: I believe there are definatly spirits at Beacon Rock.

Kong Ghosts. Pretty good. got them for the 7.8 lines. I loaned them to Joseph to try on his 7.8s at Red Rocks and he bought some later. Wayyyy cool! However I see that very few women want to actually fondle my stuff.

______________________________________________________________ is that all ya got?

Oh oh.... They say it's not what ya got, but how you use it that counts! *Blush*

Post em up! Don't think of it as having a longer penis as much as if your stuff gets stolen, you'll be able to show the insurance folks and get replacment $.

Shirt front should say: I PISS EXCELLENCE! Back: I FUCKED PARIS HILTON! You'd fit right in. ______________________________________________

Ground up hand drilled Hilti?

Everyone else got to say their piece about it. Thats mine.

These don't really do the runout length or steepness justice. Ask Jim, he was there. The moss and grass shows up pretty clear.

the guilt this is josephs route, wasn't everyone giving him shit for putting one in on an existing route? Yes, because you could wander over and clip it from 2 other routes. So that ground fall potential was eliminated from all 3. However, he pulled the bolt so feel free to ground. IMHOpinion, less folks will try a route that needs a friggan crackNup for the 1st piece way high up, and the moss will now be re-accumulating on the route.

JB, I'd almost have to write a book! Touch base when you're in town and I'll just tell you what I've learned. Main thing: you don't have to hit or spank. It's OK to keep that in your bag of tricks and you might have to use it one or twice when you get a head on conflict, but it's unnecessary as long as you pre-think what you want from them (at any age): so that it makes rational sense and has a valid reason that any rule or fiat is in place, and you are clear up front with expectations. Hafilax - I don't think what you said is an attack, great points. I wanted well adjusted, happy, good people for kids....the A was only the icing on the cake, I totally agree with you. Both of my kids are liked by their peers, and show me beau coup respect and love to this day. Jeffw nailed that one. So true! Muff and Stefan: thanks! Joseph, I'm about geared up now! Bought a "trad" chalk bag at REI yesterday which just about finished my gear needs off. The knee still has this interesting bump on it, but the lad, Ujahn and I were just last night doing some runs in the blizzard, it's was great. Best part (other than the kid can hang with Ujahn when I wash out), get to the car, lift the right ski pants up, kneel down and voila, Ice the leg! Jumped in the car and took a nap and they showed up 3 min after I woke up! Perfect timing.

pickled eggs? No Pink, the correct answer is "IF MY BOY SAYS HE CAN EAT 50 EGGS THEN MY BOY CAN EAT 50 EGGS" I'm just glad John Frieh and Marcus are too busy working out and climbing to be posting - cause I understand that they are so damn tough right now from doing crossfit that they can just LOOK at a beer bottle and open it.