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Everything posted by Buckaroo
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best of cc.com Favorite TR Ever Contest Voting Thread
Buckaroo replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
Shouldn't the subject read "Favorite TR Ever Contest Nominating Thread"? -
I strongly recommend energy gels as opposed to energy bars during and right after the race, and just as importantly hydration. Digestion takes energy and blood flow, gels are essentially pre-digested, at least the physical form of them. When I have a hard climb to do I will not eat anything after waking in the morning and a GU pack every 45 min or so during the climb. No solid foods at all until I'm done for the day. The new GU chomps or Clif shot blocks are even better not as messy. The GU products have the best energy to weight ratio. I've noticed a 10 to 15 percent performance increase since using this method.
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I know one thing on the 8000'ders the only people that survive the 3 day bivy in the death zone are the ones that are overweight to start with. Case in point the 1986 K2 disaster, Bauer and Diemberger the only survivors had guts bigger than the ones in your pics.
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""Holy shit, this sounds great! Did I miss another Obama speech!? "" "sounds" is the key word, the actions like the last 4 years will be the opposite.
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Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
Buckaroo replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
wishing I was still a kid -
Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
Buckaroo replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
allow me to clarify I'm not hating on them. I've screwed up in the mountains more than once including getting lost and an injury. I'm just pointing out the mistakes so someone else might learn from them. The other threads/articles and this one just seemed to be concentrating on an irrelevant issue, what should happen with the gear. When the gear wouldn't have been an issue if they hadn't messed up in the first place. IMHO looking at the mistakes made they were a few levels over their heads. That was the first mistake they made. You want to sugercoat it? Go right ahead, people can go on believing they were experienced enough, so everyone just get a PLB and it will be alright. Bullship. -
Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
Buckaroo replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
I don't care what the article or the rescuers say, the facts say gumbies. Seriously all they were relying on for route finding was their tracks in the snow? In Alaska in winter? LOLZ!!! Even after getting lost you can find your way back if there's visibility, they didn't even wait for that visibility. Risk free? With choppers and a 40 mph wind? Hardly. -
Hey! No skiing our climbs! J.K. nice pics
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As regards to the 2nd article. The comparison of warmth between climbing and belaying and trying to carry enough gear to take on and off and keep warm at belays. You have to try staying in motion at the belays. Run in place if you have to. You can go lighter with this method and save time by not having to add/remove layers. I usually take an extra layer even when going light but nothing overboard. I usually have to run in place when it's cold because my body fat is so low. I go light but usually don't go fast. I go slow and light due to being over the hill. I have to go light just to make it at all. One thing I note about going fast is you sometimes don't even remember the pitches. What is climbing worth in that case? Can see it if the weather window is short and you are at the top levels of climbing but otherwise you miss out on the experience. Like thinking a shiver bivy on the climb is preferred to doing it in one day. Going light is really a science. To do it properly you have to look at every single piece of gear and it also can get expensive. Another thing that happens also is going too light. Like the 3 guys that winter climbed the N face of Hood a few years back and took no puff jackets and no stove. The weight of a small stove and 1 jacket is not going to slow you enough to make a difference and the penalty if things go wrong is not worth it. If you're not in good enough shape to carry that small amount of weight and still go reasonably fast then you shouldn't be on the climb anyway.
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Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary
Buckaroo replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
Gumbies called a rescue way too early and for no reason. They shouldn't have even been on the mountain if they couldn't hang at least 24 hrs to see if it cleared. Also they should have had a stove for water and some kind of way to get a weather report. They deserve to lose their gear, the 2nd party was doing clean up at considerable risk. If they want gear back, full expenses and fee for retrieval. -
any more pics? I'd love to drive this
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[TR] ChairPeak/Snow Lake - Snow Lake Couloir 3/17/2011
Buckaroo replied to David_Parker's topic in the *freshiezone*
that's a LOT of snow on Chair -
the project map shows the project staying south of the cut. Also the trees in the area are protected by the UW arborist program? I remember when they expanded the parking lot for when the Seahawks were playing there they took a very careful cataloging of the trees. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Projects/SR520Bridge/map.htm
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N ational P etroleum R adio
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""And Fox doesn't boot people for expressing their view point."" bull ffing sh*t No, they just never hire anyone to the left of Attila the Hun in the first place, or they cut their mic if they get past the screeners. and what happened to Colmes? He was a pretend liberal and they couldn't even handle that, and where's his replacement?
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[TR] Mount Buckner - Solo - SW Slope - 10/20/2010
Buckaroo replied to Gaucho Argentino's topic in North Cascades
Probably bear just looking at the volume, the last time I was up there (on Johanesburg) saw 4 bears in 2 days, could have sworn one of them was a Griz but I was headed the other way too quick to be sure or take a pic. amazing weather for the 3rd week in October -
St. Helens True Summit Elevation Gain ?
Buckaroo replied to AsthmaticClimber's topic in Climber's Board
""does anyone have an idea of what the actual elevation gain is?"" Most of the digital altimeters have a cumulative total gain function. ""yesterday I made my way over to the true summit"" you can't climb to the true summit, it was blown into the atmosphere in the early 80's. ""Dude, asthmatic...chill the freak out man."" Yeah, take a deep breath. (sorry, couldn't resist) -
Sort of sounds like a freak accident, like it struck an artery or something.
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Whut? Doesn't make sense. Can't imagine being killed by a goat, you just grab them by the horns and they can't do anything.
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I was thinking like a nuclear cruise missile or one of those MOAB's
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best of cc.com [TR] Mt. BORAH (12662') - North Face traverse - AI3, WI3 10/10/2010
Buckaroo replied to YocumRidge's topic in Idaho
6 star TR, you go girl, or as the kids would say 100 internets to you Nice open terrain too reminds me of Shasta, none of the ugly NW bushwack -
I said it from the start the scumbags will skate just like Exxon did in alaska. Obama's $20B is just a fake, his 'justice' dept will do nothing. The corporatists in the senate wont even allow subpoena power.
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Always, except at the gym. I've been saved too many times on the motorcycle and bicycle. I've watched rocks go winging by too many times at the crags and alpine.
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""easily cured with a new drug just coming on the market called Votemout."" what? then vote in the greater of the two evils that we just got rid of? That caused all this damage in the first place? what kind of drugs are you on?