Dr_Flash_Amazing

quote: Originally posted by Rick Sharpless: Which desecrates the environment more? Cutting a 500 old tree, that will take a thousand years to regenerate in its present form, to build a house OR: Drilling and bolting a 30 million year old rock, that will not regenerate at all, because you don't want to learn /don't trust/ want to use trad pro? Hmmm - is there a cetain hypocrisy among some sportos? Just curious How much oxygen is being produced by that 30 million-year-old rock? How many species formerly dependent on that rock can no longer exist because of the bolts in it? How widespread and prolific is the damage caused by clearcutting vs. the damage caused by bolting? Chances are more than a few salmon had to suffer so dams could generate power so the aluminum for your cams, nuts, hexes (and, yes, sport climbin' biners) could be produced. Now who's impacting what? Hopefully your post was a tongue-in cheek troll; if not, it's time to wake up to what actual large-scale problems there are relating to the natural world rather than sniffing out the insignificant.

Nahhh. As a fairly environment-minded individual, the Doctor would make a concession for Congressional thinning. Could just declare open season on them; let 'em think about accepting all that money from the gun lobbyists!

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: Is there a point to this 12 page thread? Or is that a stupid question? No and yes, respectively.

Does it have many bolts on it?

Eh? Dead fish, lonely trees, seal pups with red tears tattooed on them, and ... is that an angry weasel?

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Off White - Dr. K would be Dr. Kubiak, i.e. Eric (Erik?) Kubiak, Seattle-based hardperson (i.e. 5.14s) and loudmouth extraordinaire. Actually, he's in NY now (I think), but I swear I hear him screaming every now and then.... That's fully hilarious. Didn't he lose or almost lose one of his sponsorships (5.10, the Doctor believes) due to someone complaining to them about one of his extensive "fuck" hollerings at Smith? So goes the rumor from a fairly credible source, anyway.

Lambone, You're right about that. After posting it, the Doctor felt kinda bad, but since it was bagging on Trask, had to leave it up.

Off White - Dr. K would be Dr. Kubiak, i.e. Eric (Erik?) Kubiak, Seattle-based hardperson (i.e. 5.14s) and loudmouth extraordinaire.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Right-minded individuals... Nothing you've written makes me believe that you are right of center. Further, how is it that you are so fucking arrogant that you think your thinking is "right"; i.e., correct? Greg W Dr. Flash Amazing is only so fucking arrogant as to have enough of a sense of humor to suggest that those who would show their disapproval of Resident Bush on his visit to PDX are "right-minded." It was a (highly effective) mini-troll/jab at the right-wingers (e.g. you) on the board who think they are right-minded. Don't we all think we're right? The implication of that phrase that DFA might be politically "right" was coincidental and unintended, as right-wingism is not something with which the Doctor would usually align himself.

Ahh, you can't see the damn pull-on loops in the Anasazi photo, but don't they have the exact same double-loop configuration? A few of the other Madrocks had a suspiciously familiar look to them. The rest just looked decidedly suspicious.

Uh, anyone see any, err, resemblance between the MadRock Flash and the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro?

Greg Hine., there is another way, but it involves exercising ones second amendment rights!

Thanks for clearing that up. In that case, PP's point is poop (heh-heh). Obviously, most sport climbers who consider themselves solid on 5.whatever are probably talking sport routes if they don't climb trad. So if we're talking about not being a solid 5.11+ climber in that respect, yeah, it probably applies. But as far as sportness goes, DFA can't imagine a 5.13 sportiste not being solid on 5.11 sport routes. Inconceivable!

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I stand fully by what I said and will explain a bit further. I have worked on some sport routes year sagon and succeeded on some rated .13 and never onve considered myself a 11+ all around leader. I know several Seattle folk who have sent several Smith .13s and woudln't presume to think they were all around .11+ leaders. It is truly the rare bird who can for example Jump on Mary's Tears/Crucifix (even with a few point sof aid at the crux)and get to the top. I would guess very few of those who redpointed a .13 within the last few months could. Very few could go to climb Cream as well. Very few could go climb Swiss Orange Chip in Toulumne. This is no insult simply the facts. Being an all around 5.11 climber is quite an achievement. So is climbing 5.13. Very few could walk up and climb one of the difficult 5.11 routes on the Diamond. I would only add that from my perspective the former is more difficult than the latter. Glad you came to the site DFA! PP Thanks, PP! Nice to be loitering about a climbing bbs that actually has people posting on it (and getting into some fine discussions/pissing matches to boot!). So the Doctor sees your point now. While unfamiliar with the routes you cited, he assumes those are all granite slab nightmare 5.11s? In which case, yeah, a lot of 5.13 climbers might get hosed on that medium. But in the case of most sport climbers, they stick to certain types of routes (i.e. steep, or whatever it is they prefer--this apparently being your point about specialization), so whether or not they can climb 5.11+ blank slabs is often moot, since they usually wouldn't bother. And, most sportistes will freely admit that they suck at and don't like climbing blank slabs. Anyway, fall is coming, and soon it will be time to clip some bolts!

Speaking of GWB, the jackass in chief will be staying in PDX tonight, apparently at the Hilton inside a 6-block visitor-free radius. Right-minded individuals ought to head down to the barricades and let the resident know how we feel. The Doctor, at least, plans to head downtown and see what there is to see.

True, but they freely admit that they suck! "tear that poster off the wall it takes up too much space we ain't no fuckin' rock band, man a professional disgrace" - NOFX, 'We Ain't Shit'

Actually, yeah. Do you guys sell 2nds and/or blems from your HQ there in SeaWa?

"What gave you the idea? Get it outta your head you follow us around we're not, we're not the Grateful Dead!" - NOFX "you are a hippie you smell like scum I'm your arch-enemy a middle-class street punk" - again

For basic info, the Doctor is pretty sure Metolius' website has a pamphlet on building a home wall, which may or may not be downloadable. Unless it's going to be a large, convoluted structure, general common-sense construction techniques will see you through.

Viva!

And look who's still reading up on the action! *ahem* There once was a poster named Trask-o who slathered his dick in Tabasco to attract from all 'round some hungry snafflehounds 'stead of licking, 'twas a biting fiasco!

quote: Sayeth Peter Puget: Hey Sexy I said that bit about 4th being closer to 5.11 than 5.11 is to .14c but I would also add that the trade off for specialization is that mostsportos who climb .13 are not even all around .11c leaders. Actually over the year sI have met very few people who are. PP This thing about most sportants (that's legitimate French, don't bother looking it up ) who climb 5.13 not being all-around .11c climbers just doesn't seem likely. There might be some 5.11 climbers who take a thrash away on 5.13s and can do a good few of the moves, but it's a long way from doing a few of the moves to actually sending 5.13. It takes a lot of time and work to climb 5.13 (or, for that matter, whatever your upper-limit grade might be), and it's got to be a rare soul who can climb that hard and not be solid on hard 5.11. Many (most) .13s are made up of some quantity of 5.12 moves strung together, and the amount of climbing at the 5.12 level one needs to do to succeed on a .13 pretty much ensures that a person is going to have the wherewithall to climb hard .11s, and probably onsight at that. But, for the sake of discussion, have you met very many sportistes who can climb 5.13 but aren't solid on hard .11s? 'Cause that strikes the Doctor as right amazing if you have.

That reminds the Doctor ... Here, this was going to be an image but it wouldn't display, so you gotta click it. [ 08-22-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Sure, circa preschool, maybe. They're too trad, though. Legos romp.

Hey! What's that moron doing standing at the base of the route with his helmet in his hand after already getting clobbered? Learn your damn lessons, pal!