Dr_Flash_Amazing

Definitely a yes on the Rubber Room. Had them resole a few pairs of curvy-lasted, down-cambered sport-climbin' shoes, and they did a stellar job of preserving the shape, fit, and sensitivity, not to mention the workmanship was impeccable. No delams or any crap like that. Give them your shoes and you will be happy.

This is a gorgeous and striking feature. What and where and how hard, etc. please? It's enough to make the Doctor want to hike more than a quarter mile, and carry a rack and stuff. [ 08-27-2002, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

So, are they not supposed to protect, even if it *is* big money donors? When a mob turns out to break things and hurt people, are the police just supposed to step aside because oh, these rioters "care", and are showing "democracy"? This criticism makes no sense whatsoever. The police are supposed to keep the streets safe no matter who is rioting and trying to cause problems. First of all, where do you get the idea that this was a "mob" turning out to "break things and hurt people?" Where in any of those pictures (and there are a lot more photos at www.indymedia.org) do you see anything getting broken or anyone getting hurt? It's not a riot, it's a protest or a demonstration. Riots involve lots of violence and looting, and while they may be in reaction to an event, they are rarely carried out to raise public awareness. Since this is not a riot, who are the streets being "kept safe" for? Why is it that when a group of decidedly wealthy individuals turns out to hobnob with the President and Gordon Smith, they get police protection, essentially acting as armed guards? The police are public servants, not security-for-hire. And thats wether it's rioters who "care" and are threatening people for "peace" and "progressive" values, or anybody else. Funny thing is, it's the folks who *claim* to be oh so caring, and oh so peaceful, throwing bricks and causing problems. And they wonder why they get pepper sprayed. If it always seems to be the folks rioting for peace getting treatment from the cops, maybe that ought to tell us something. It's because of all the folks in the nation who hold vigils, demonstrations, and marches, only those who describe themselves as the most caring and peaceful do the worst damage and lately always cause riots. Not the pro gun crowd, not the million moms, not even the reparations folks, when you see it's the pro peace, social justice, anti globalization folks coming downtown to show us how "democracy" should work, prepare for violence. Makes sense, huh? Where are you getting this idea that peaceful protestors "always cause riots?" It does not make sense that the city should prepare for violence from peaceful demonstrators, because they rarely incite violence. What incidents of violence are you referring to? Even the highly publicized anti-WTO protests in Seattle only had a few instances of "violence," and as the Doctor recalls, that violence was against some windows and newspaper boxes. Hardly an attack on society at large. And even then, that demonstration was attended by thousands of people. If .1 percent of those people break some windows, are all protesters rioting miscreants? Try to keep the "violence" you're referring to in perspective. "Does this make anyone else want to puke?" It certainly does. We have folks claiming "democracy" is shown by rioting. "peace" is pursued by violence in the streets, and police protecting citizens some others disagree with is somehow outrageous. Because apparently if you're a rich donor, rioters should be able to harm you on the sidewalks, you have no life, no rights, no kids at home or people who love you. You're just a cartoon figure, not a real person, and pissed off "progressives" should be able to do what they want to you on the street. yeah, it makes me puke alright. Again (and again, and again), this is not violence. This is people exercising their right to peaceably assemble. This is the police keeping people from getting within several blocks of the people they disagree with. This has nothing to do with keeping these people safe, and everything to do with shutting out peaceful protest. These people weren't there to hurt wealthy political donors, but to voice their opinion of the "president" and what he stands for. You keep calling these people violent and rioters, but look at the pictures, and tell the Doctor who showed up with pepper spray, clubs, and shotguns? Do you see any protesters in full riot gear and pointing guns at people? Come on. Are the protestors beating up the cops and smashing windows? Hmmm ... no, they're not. When you have a political disagreement with someone, you *don't* get mad because the cops keep you from harming them. You *don't* show up and cause riots. Demonstration is a public right, causing harm is not, and if "progressives" cannot keep their demonstrations from turning into riots maybe they ought to grow up and take a look at who they are, who they attract, what they condone, and maybe, just maybe, *actually* *LIVE* what they claim to believe. Fat chance. Again, where's the violence? Who is there to cause harm to other people? Perhaps you remember Los Angeles post-Rodney King incident, with all the burning, looting, and mayhem? That was a riot. That footage of the Middle East you've seen on the news with people burning cars, throwing rocks and molotov cocktails at the police? Those were riots. But people carrying signs, chanting, beating drums (there's something we could to without), and staying on their side of the barricades without throwing anything but a little attitude at the cops? That's a protest, not a riot. Is not rioting for peace really all that hard? And they wonder why they are viewed as fringe, while they claim to be mainstream. one casual look at claims vs actions is all it takes to explain why. How many of those people do you think claim to be mainstream, or want to be? They know that as protesters they are in the minority. Most people who might agree with the reasons behind them don't turn out to protests because they are either too cynical or too busy with other things, or don't want to get -- surprise -- pepper sprayed or worse by the cops. ****************************8 Poor babies got pepper sprayed. Call the Waaaaaambulance for them. Pepper spray is an appropriate low intensity responce to rioters. They have no "right" to riot, they are committing a crime and threatening others. If you don't want to be pepper sprayed, with the attendant risk of allergic reactions in some, it's pretty simple, really...don't riot! Don't hang around when told to leave! Don't threaten people for peace! Look, it's not a riot, and demonstrating is not a crime, so why should people get pepper sprayed for it. Yeah, it would be understandable if these people were causing havoc and wrecking shit, but that's not what was happening, so why should they get treated like criminals?

Heh heh, yeah, yeah. DFA was just talkin' sheeit.

quote: Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. For someone who's not trying to sound condescending, you're sounding pretty condescending. The Doctor sees why you and the Dwaynepipe get along so well . Given said similarity with Dwayno, Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol.

What's this crap about climbing in the rain? Only if it's steep enough to stay dry, thanks. Otherwise, it's time.

Huh? What double post? [ 08-26-2002, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Trask, you certifiable pussy. If you were truly hardcore, you'd take your concealed weapons permit out back and shoot it.

"This is RURP: My favorite sport climb is the one where all of the hangers are missing and the befuddled sport-climbers scratch their heads and then decide to go wind-surfing instead. RURP has spoken." You're such a piton. Go suck a Birdbeak.

thanks for the chewy posts and your comments, even though we're on opposites sides we can try and demonstrate some civility ourselves! Amen, MtnGoat! The Doctor might protest some of your points, but he's not about to start a riot wit' ya!

i am sorry but i think sooo maby of those peopl e are sooooooooooo fucking pathetic. Just look at the pic of the lady staring at the cop....what the fuck???? that lady isssssss sooooo tough...come on i wanna see that lady stare down a crack addict....i wanna see that lady starre down ted bundy...of course that cop aint gonna do shit..... Yeah, the picture of that lady swappin' stares with the cop is kind of goofy. But then again, if the cops are going to show up decked out in their body-armored best and stare you down, why not stare back? If the cops are there to "protect" the innocent corporate interests of the wealthy, why do they need to intimidate people? [/b]and they call them storm troopers.....[/b] What do you call large heavily armed and armored men dressed in black and carrying big sticks? well i call those other people fat, and dirty and worthless....do not these people ahve jobs?? they can just go down and yell and tell the world what is wrong with it....i bet none of these people have any ideas on what really constitutes how the world works. these people obviously have no idea on how good their lives are.....you can look at those pictures and see deisgner clothes and all sort of expensive items....that ummm is called capitalism and without these jobless(speculating here) dirt bags would have none of it, even if they bought it at a 2nd hand store. Fat, dirty, worthless ... what's that all about? A lot of those people looked pretty skinny to DFA, and they're drawing attention to their cause; what's worthless about that? If any of them are unemployed, do you think it has anything to do with our economy being in the shitbox? The argument that these people have nice clothes or good lives is pointless and empty. First off, if people of privilege want to stand up and draw attention to issues effecting the disadvantaged, isn't that fairly egalitarian? And second of all, why the fuck should we settle for a half-assed America? The whole beauty of this country is that we are free to voice our opinions in public, and that people should be able to live well and be treated fairly. It should be possible to have capitalism without gross injustice, shouldn't it? And those protesters who are staunchly anti-capitalist probably go a lot farther than you give them credit for to live that credo. use that energy in a positive way. instead of crying what is wrong with the world, why dont you try to go out and work with it, make a positive influence with the people and the things around you. What is negative about making the world's problems known in public? And what makes you think a lot of those protesters don't do things like volunteer to make positive changes. Groups like Food Not Bombs, organizations like Street Roots and Sisters of the Road, and hordes of nonprofits are all staffed and kept alive by idealists like this who feel that they can make a difference. Taking to the streets is just another way to get the word out. and reading the other day on that same website about how attroucios it was that a bay got peppered sprayed....well um did that baby walk down there by itself.....umm no so irresponsible parents brought it there......obviously these people are real smart....i say those parents should be jailed....for endangering their child. Yeah, it does seem a little dodgy that you'd bring a baby to a protest, or at least that you'd stick around when the riot cops showed up. But hey, maybe instead of it being incumbent on people to not get hurt by the cops for exerciseing their rights (does that sound at all backwards to you?), maybe it should be incumbent on the cops not to hurt people for exercising their rights. Since when should people expect to get beaten or pepper sprayed for voicing their opinions? It is grossly backwards to expect that the police are going to punish people who demonstrate peacefully. then they have the pic of the cop with the video camera, making comments on how smug he was....well lets see i am sure that there were thousands of wanna be video journalists down there doing the same thing.....obviously they are in the right and the cops are wrong there..... The point apparently being that the cop was real smug taking pictures of protesters, but apparently not so happy getting filmed himself. Why are the cops nervous about the public seeing what they're doing? Whose video footage probably makes it onto the nightly news? It's probably not the footage of the cops spraying people down with pepper spray for just standing there. we certainly have the right to assmeble and protest, but with that comes responsibilty. and that responsibilty comes from both sides of the fence. if protesters feel they need to antagonize the police in that situation...they should expect to get beat down....it works that way in all walks of life........ But who's antagonizing who here? People are guaranteed the right to peaceably assemble, so they do so. They carry no weapons, and they stay on their side of the barricades. The cops, on the other hand, show up ready to kick ass, in their jackboots with nightsticks in hand, marching shoulder to shoulder. Isn't that a provocative act of intimidation? So by that line of reasoning, shouldn't the protesters mob the cops and fuck them up? But it didn't happen that way, did it? liberal news media at its finest. next expose' piece will be on "road kill why do humans feel the need to rid the world of animals!" Funny, and presumably meant to be. But if you look at mainstream media coverage of these events (when there is any), you find that the protesters are painted as a violent criminal mob, and that the police are just protecting people and maintaining order. You don't get a very balanced view there, so should you expect the independent media to present things in a balanced way?

quote: Originally posted by plexus: Went to local gear shop today to replace gear either lost or mistakenly placed in my friend's pack down at Yosemite last week. For BD #10-13 nuts, oval rack biner and a new QD that bounced down from two pitches up Cathedral Peak, I spent $54!!! Yikes!! Anyways tried to put off getting the nuts but those are the most used pieces on my rack, expecially No. 10 and 11. I seem to always use my No. 6 and my No. 1 Trango cam. Curious what everybody else's most precious pieces on their racks. DAF, is yours a golden quickdraw? First of all, friend, it's spelled "DFA". And since the Doctor replaced his rather old and worked assortment of draws a while back with 12 identical ones (plus two for the anchors), the rack has become a communist utopia, and no piece gets any more use than any other. Isn't that sweet?

In the Doctor's sport-climberly opinion, a sport route is protected exclusively with bolts, and could conceivably maim you, but preferably not. Safe and convenient is the name of the game, baby.

Here's some coverage of the anti-Bush protests in downtown PDX. Obviously the police are there to serve and protect. Big-money political donors, that is. Does this make anyone else want to puke?

Now, there's a favorite sport climb! Quite an enjoyable read, to boot. Dr. Flash Amazing has been wanting to go climbing in southern France (and Spain, and parts of Italy, especially Corsica) for a long time, with the Calanques being near the top of the list. Absolutely gorgeous place! On looks alone it completely romps anything in the US, at least as far as sport crags, with the exception of some of the stuff at the Red River Gorge, which the Doctor also needs to visit. Gotta save up that money and those days off, and get the hell out of McMerica for a while ...

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: For some reason, I've always liked Hydrophobia at Little Si. Magic Light at Smith I always enjoy. Californication at Little Si (Chronic sucks!). Ooh...Five Easy Pieces at Smith. Oh why are you so fun, little one, little one? Oh jeez, Kings of Rap. And something called Missing Link at Lake Louise, Banff. Yo hard! And what is our favorite proctologist's favorite route, por favor? I believe there are numerous points of curiousity quivering, perhaps bwain dwayne being one of them? Hey, DFA ain't that sort of Doctor, buster! Have you done or been on the whole 5 Easy Pieces? It looks to be quite a proud line and seems like it'd make a fun outing, despite rumors of it being a drill-fest (just imagine, a 5.13(?) at Smith with chipped holds ). The Doctor has always thought Chain Reaction was one of the coolest routes ever. What great moves on such a crazy feature, and super fun as well. Too bad it's only like 40' long! But you get the funky start, the big pulls, the technical arete slapping and footwork, the crazy rockover move, and a big dyno in that 40 feet. Toxic is always fun, too; can't climb that thing too many times. Fear & Loathing at Red Rocks is a blast, too; like 5 Gallon Buckets at a 30 degree angle. Ah, the list could go on and on ...

quote: Quoth JKrueger How long until we see DFA's photo on wanted posters around the Bend area for leaking such classified and sensitive information? Balls! Keeping crags secret is ridiculous and selfish (especially when they're on public lands -- give the Doctor a fucking break!). Not to mention basically everyone and their dog knows where Meadow Camp is, and it's not SO good that it's going to get totally overrun. As far as DFA knows, Tick Ranch, Home Depot, and Sisters (and whatever else the Bend area bouldering posses have uncovered) boulders are all on public lands, so have at 'em! Other areas like the Zone and the golf course bouldering are more likely to cause more problems, but obviously no golf course is ever going to open up their fairways to bouldering anyway, so the access sensitivity question is somewhat moot. Plus you never know if they're going to charge you with trespassing too--more thrills for your bouldering buck! [ 08-23-2002, 12:53 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

True that Nader may not be the 100% best solution. In the Doctor's opinion, though, much of his appeal lies in the fact that he's largely opposed to most, if not all, of the major problems that plague our system as it stands. The fact that he was shut out from actually debating is indicative of the other parties' (and their corporate backers') fear of what kind of change a third party would bring, and is in turn indicative of whose interests they are truly looking out for. Interesting bit about why the Nade' was kicked out for even watching the debates. DFA hadn't heard that side of the story; but of course he has to wonder if it's true, and also why he had to use someone else's creds to get in in the first place?

If you're looking to avoid unnecessary risks, you should probably think twice about taking up mountaineering. Seems to be a lot of objective shit out there waiting to swallow you, pummel you, or hypothermificate you. Stay on your toes!

[ 08-23-2002, 05:40 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

quote: Originally posted by sk: can I name it if I can't do it???? what are the rules here DFA? It's fucking anarchy in here. You can name it if you had to stick-clip the first bolt, couldn't get to the second bolt, and used all your chalk trying to figure out the first three moves. Whatever, just give up the favorites!

quote: Originally posted by trask: DFUnamazing...go chug some cock, wankeryanker Is that at Red Rocks, you coprophagic neanderthal pansy? [ 08-23-2002, 05:15 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

OK, the good Doctor is wondering, for those of you to whom the question applies, what your favorite sport route or routes is or are. Feel free to include any relevant details such as where and why and all that crap. For those of you who hate sport climbing and don't do sport routes, go stuff nuts in your crack.

Perhaps (not that DFA has any idea about the drive/hike times to Sq'ish/11worth from Seattle), although wouldn't there likely be less of a pad mob at Leavy?

quote: Originally posted by ILuvAliens: For example N Ridge Stuart. You climb up the route over the top carring you pack/gear. And down the other side. Generally whenever you are not going to rap the same route or at least the same side of the mt. Thank you muchos buckets, senor Aliens.