Dr_Flash_Amazing

Uh, anyone see any, err, resemblance between the MadRock Flash and the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro?

Greg Hine., there is another way, but it involves exercising ones second amendment rights!

Thanks for clearing that up. In that case, PP's point is poop (heh-heh). Obviously, most sport climbers who consider themselves solid on 5.whatever are probably talking sport routes if they don't climb trad. So if we're talking about not being a solid 5.11+ climber in that respect, yeah, it probably applies. But as far as sportness goes, DFA can't imagine a 5.13 sportiste not being solid on 5.11 sport routes. Inconceivable!

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I stand fully by what I said and will explain a bit further. I have worked on some sport routes year sagon and succeeded on some rated .13 and never onve considered myself a 11+ all around leader. I know several Seattle folk who have sent several Smith .13s and woudln't presume to think they were all around .11+ leaders. It is truly the rare bird who can for example Jump on Mary's Tears/Crucifix (even with a few point sof aid at the crux)and get to the top. I would guess very few of those who redpointed a .13 within the last few months could. Very few could go to climb Cream as well. Very few could go climb Swiss Orange Chip in Toulumne. This is no insult simply the facts. Being an all around 5.11 climber is quite an achievement. So is climbing 5.13. Very few could walk up and climb one of the difficult 5.11 routes on the Diamond. I would only add that from my perspective the former is more difficult than the latter. Glad you came to the site DFA! PP Thanks, PP! Nice to be loitering about a climbing bbs that actually has people posting on it (and getting into some fine discussions/pissing matches to boot!). So the Doctor sees your point now. While unfamiliar with the routes you cited, he assumes those are all granite slab nightmare 5.11s? In which case, yeah, a lot of 5.13 climbers might get hosed on that medium. But in the case of most sport climbers, they stick to certain types of routes (i.e. steep, or whatever it is they prefer--this apparently being your point about specialization), so whether or not they can climb 5.11+ blank slabs is often moot, since they usually wouldn't bother. And, most sportistes will freely admit that they suck at and don't like climbing blank slabs. Anyway, fall is coming, and soon it will be time to clip some bolts!

Speaking of GWB, the jackass in chief will be staying in PDX tonight, apparently at the Hilton inside a 6-block visitor-free radius. Right-minded individuals ought to head down to the barricades and let the resident know how we feel. The Doctor, at least, plans to head downtown and see what there is to see.

True, but they freely admit that they suck! "tear that poster off the wall it takes up too much space we ain't no fuckin' rock band, man a professional disgrace" - NOFX, 'We Ain't Shit'

Actually, yeah. Do you guys sell 2nds and/or blems from your HQ there in SeaWa?

"What gave you the idea? Get it outta your head you follow us around we're not, we're not the Grateful Dead!" - NOFX "you are a hippie you smell like scum I'm your arch-enemy a middle-class street punk" - again

For basic info, the Doctor is pretty sure Metolius' website has a pamphlet on building a home wall, which may or may not be downloadable. Unless it's going to be a large, convoluted structure, general common-sense construction techniques will see you through.

Viva!

And look who's still reading up on the action! *ahem* There once was a poster named Trask-o who slathered his dick in Tabasco to attract from all 'round some hungry snafflehounds 'stead of licking, 'twas a biting fiasco!

quote: Sayeth Peter Puget: Hey Sexy I said that bit about 4th being closer to 5.11 than 5.11 is to .14c but I would also add that the trade off for specialization is that mostsportos who climb .13 are not even all around .11c leaders. Actually over the year sI have met very few people who are. PP This thing about most sportants (that's legitimate French, don't bother looking it up ) who climb 5.13 not being all-around .11c climbers just doesn't seem likely. There might be some 5.11 climbers who take a thrash away on 5.13s and can do a good few of the moves, but it's a long way from doing a few of the moves to actually sending 5.13. It takes a lot of time and work to climb 5.13 (or, for that matter, whatever your upper-limit grade might be), and it's got to be a rare soul who can climb that hard and not be solid on hard 5.11. Many (most) .13s are made up of some quantity of 5.12 moves strung together, and the amount of climbing at the 5.12 level one needs to do to succeed on a .13 pretty much ensures that a person is going to have the wherewithall to climb hard .11s, and probably onsight at that. But, for the sake of discussion, have you met very many sportistes who can climb 5.13 but aren't solid on hard .11s? 'Cause that strikes the Doctor as right amazing if you have.

That reminds the Doctor ... Here, this was going to be an image but it wouldn't display, so you gotta click it. [ 08-22-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Sure, circa preschool, maybe. They're too trad, though. Legos romp.

Hey! What's that moron doing standing at the base of the route with his helmet in his hand after already getting clobbered? Learn your damn lessons, pal!

Dr. Flash Amazing could out-lego your punk ass any day, fool.

quote: Originally posted by iain: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Iain, were you at the PRG last night, perchance? Yes I was. Just find the easiest V2 in the house and the guy flailing on it was me. (around 10-11pm) I'll admit it was not french rap last night, but it was some other shit they've played way too much. Hmm. DFA missed you by about 20 minutes. Wouldn't mind if they brought back the French rap, as it's pretty good. But they always seem to be playing one out of perhaps three (or thirty? Hard to say.) electronical music CDs without fail. There are one or two persons behind the counter who have a modicum of musical sense, the remainder have been brainwashed. Somehow five minutes of the same 10-second loop of drum-machine beats, some bit of pseudo-hip sci-fi movie dialog, and random computer noise just don't get the Doc psyched to do anything but tear the speakers down and smash them. An entire album of that crap is unconscionable.

Iain, were you at the PRG last night, perchance?

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: ... Ahhh, whatever. Face it Iain, you just don't like dirty hippies. Does anyone? Q. How do you hide something from a hippie? A. Put it under the soap!

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Stop thread drift now! Oh, oops! Sport climbing is fun! Sport climbing is lame! No, sport climbing is fun, but sport climbers are dorks! No, you're a dork! Shut up! Don't judge a man by the condition of his knickers unless he's shorter than you! Your ego is like a melon, it is large and full of seeds! Trad climbing is the only way. Shut up or I'll kick your ass! You couldn't kick your way out of a wet horsecock wrapper! You both suck snaffle jizz! Etc., etc., ad infinitum.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: My point still stands: PP, Dwayner, nor Big Lou are as bad as Jim Walker. Or Slim for that matter. Greg W ... Dr. Flash Amazing, on the other hand ... Baaaaad mofo.

Wasn't it Bad, Bad Leroy Brown? Baddest man in the whole dang town, etc.?

Damn double-post! We now return to our regularly scheduled program: [ 08-21-2002, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Some wild stuff being passed around here, like this one: Here's a bizarre quote from the 'bone: "I've taken my share of shit from the pigs." Where did you get that one? Did you find an old Abbie Hoffman book in the school library? Do make sure that you DON'T call "the pigs" next time some thug is mugging you, breaking into your love-shack, stealing your car or whatever. You wouldn't want any of their s*%t. I'd really like to see you live in our society without "the pigs"; you wouldn't last a week. And next time you see one of them drivin' around patrolin' your neighborhood, show them how you feel instead of pissin' on them on a climbing bulletin board: give them the finger and tell 'em to get lost. On a lighter note, Mr. Attitude's provocative solution to who's got the say: "Let's just whip out our dicks, and the one with the biggest is King of the Mountain!" Why I guess then that Big Lou is King of the Mountain, and if he abdicates, then you may address Dwayner as "your royal highness". Dr. Flash Amazing must now retract all of his previous arguments with Dwayno over climbing styles and whatnot, as it is now clear that Dwaneage is so high on himself he's off his fucking rocker. DFA would not have wasted the time had he but known. Given what he's seen of this patient's case, however, the Doctor's advice to Dwaynepipe is to rap down off the astonishingly high horse for a bit, at least long enough to pull the stick outta your arse. And do keep up your non-sport climbing tendencies, as DFA hates running into pricks at the crag. Ta ta, Dr. Flash Amazing

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Heel hook dudes! Balls. Skyhook.