Dr_Flash_Amazing

The Doctor personally always topropes through his own draws, but will lower off the links or whatever when he's done with a route. He actually keeps meaning to start bringing some quick links with him in case he encounters badly worked anchors. At any rate, with the crowds at Smith, people seem more keen on just lowering and getting off a route quickly rather than rapping and saving wear on the links. And of course on steep routes, cleaning them on rappel is much harder, so the lower/tram option is key.

Ah, but they are also less prone to good ol' gate lash in a fall, making them a good bit safer than bent-gates or standard straight-gates. Plus bent-gates are more likely to open because there's something for the rope to hook over, whereas wire-gates are more like straight-gates that way. The Doctor's rack (i.e. 14 quickdraws) is all wires on the rope end.

Erik, thanks for the flame-free info. The Doctor will remember that next time he's rapelling someplace dodgy. DFA just needs to remember how to rappel ...

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: But DFA is not a ZSM DFA doesn't need the cc-dot-c title. The Doctor is a transcendentally talented spray savant (double alliteration, bonus points).

OK, friends. Who wants to remind the Doctor of what an autoblock is? (We get lowered off of sport routes.)

send me money send me green heaven you will meet make a contribution and you'll get the better seat Damn, DFA used to listen to Metallica all the time. Until he realized that metal is lame, and Metallica started pandering to the Top 40 set. Thank goodness for le musique de punk!

Yeah, new wave was the bottom of the damn barrel. Hell, they could have at least mentioned The Smiths! What was up with Def Leppard popping up in every group of answers? DFA was way into them when he was about 7 or 8.

Is that NOFX? Looks like Fat Mike on the right.

Dr. Flash Amazing scored a meager 40%. Fuck the 80s!

Ugh. No, no, no, no, no, no, no. You have completely misunderstood. The Doctor assumed that fella was asking if was Fugazi. DFA, being a huge fan of Fugazi, was thinking that could not be Fugazi, because Fugazi is a four-piece, and is obviously a three-piece. Which is why they couldn't be Minor Threat either, or most of the other good bands that are or were out there. And no, the Doctor has never been a big fan of the CPD's, although their live show used to be a kick in the ass. Sheesh.

No good; Fugazi's a four-piece. DFA wanted it to be Minor Threat, given the bald front-man, but again, four-piece.

Yeah, it's obviously way less likely to kill you for a rappel. But there is the phenomenon of the rope halves not always moving through the device at the same speed, or shifting back and forth ever so slightly as you rap. And then there's all the friction you get when pulling the rope, which might not do much to the rope, but is going to play hell with the sling, leaving potentially compromised crap for the next party to dangle from. Dunno, DFA has always been super-wary of direct rope-to-webbing contact, and avoids it if at all possible.

Isn't threading the rope directly through webbing a commonly regarded no-no? Anyway, it's not as much of a no-no as removing your brake hand from the rope, even for a split second, even if you think your partner is solid. Because when you do, they will fall off right in that second. If you're insanely fuckin' lucky, they might be on a route that's not too tall, and they might land on top of a tall boulder, reducing the distance of their fall, which is slowed down a bit by the friction in the ATC, and the skin you burn off your palm trying to catch the rope as it slides by so agonizingly slowly, why can't you just grab it? Slide. Slide. Slide. And if you're super, super lucky, they might actually land and be completely uninjured, if scared to death, and they might even choose not to kill you on the spot, even though they're pissed, of course. Hell, they might even spend years to come actually climbing with you and being belayed by you. But you do know for sure that you will never, under any circumstances whatsoever, TAKE YOUR STUPID FUCKING HAND OFF THE BRAKE SIDE OF THE ROPE, YOU IDIOT!!! Shit, that was the stupidest thing ever. [ 08-09-2002, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: Dr Flash Amazing is neither. As contrasted with yourself, who has provided a veritable cornucopia of helpful beta on the Leavenworth area. Before slandering the Doctor's good name again, please print out a copy of your post, roll the paper up into a small tube, and tap it firmly up your ass with a piton hammer or like device. With the paper placed thusly, find a comfortable seat, and meditate for several hours upon your worth as a person. Hopefully you will then realize that you must first better yourself before ever saying anything about Dr. Flash Amazing ever again.

Ah, forget it. [ 08-08-2002, 12:43 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Having been to Leavenworth only once and climbed only one route, Dr. Flash Amazing can recommend only that route, i.e. Outer Space. Fortunately, it's a great route and well worth your time. The Doctor also must recommend that you pick up some java from the coffee roaster (micro-roasted beans! Praise the Lord!) at the west (?) end of town. Tasty product.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: 4|\||) 0|= [0|_||253 |)|=4 |5 T|-|3 3|>|T0/\/\3 0|= 4|_|_ T|-|4T |5 |_0G|[4|_ Let's engage the Geek-Speak Translatotron 6000, shall we? *beep beep beep* *translating* AND OF COURSE DFA IS THE EPITOME OF ALL THAT IS LOGICAL. *beeeeeeep* [ 08-08-2002, 12:12 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

It is true that Dr. Flash Amazing has had a few slow days at the clinic lately. But he also used to post on a board with a bunch of compute-o-wanks who typed like that incessantly, which provided the Doc with some practice. Just takes a minute to re-jigger what you think of as a letter. 4|\||) 0|= [0|_||253 |)|=4 |5 T|-|3 e|>|T0/\/\3 0|= 4|_|_ T|-|4T |5 |_0G|[4|_. True, indeed.

Ugh, the '80s ... where's the "puking guts out" emoticon ..?

Ugh, no kidding. If the Doctor has to endure another bouldering session accompanied by that repetetive, beeping, thumping swill, he's going to bash someone. How about some music involving, oh, say ... instruments?

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: If you review the start of the thread, the poster asked for suggestions for "some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch..." This does not describe Outer Space at all. Sending ill-prepared novices up more difficult routes is one reason why Mountain Rescue stays busy. ... Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. First of all, aside from a little bouldering, DFA had never touched granite before venturing up OS. Secondly, given the alpo hardperson nature of this forum, the Doctor figured 7 pitches wasn't that long, and 5.9 wasn't grossly hard, since DFA is constantly getting slagged for not being alpine enough. Seeing as how a trad gumby like DFA was able to do it, he figured most anyone could. So you are welcome to choke on your supercilious admonishments whilst inserting your incorrect assertion that DFA is neither up your poop chute. Not to mention, at least a few of your alpie compatriots also mentioned OS as well as Orbit (which, isn't Orbit a bit more difficult?). Why you have to pick on the sport climber, fucknutz? [ 08-08-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

When buying any type of shellfish, remember to consider what area of ocean they came from. Clams take in a lot of water and sediment, and can carry a high amount of pollutants and ... oh, CAMS. Gotcha. Ask a trad climber.

The Portland Rock Gym's lovely this time of year.

According to Dr. Flash Amazing's astonishingly rudimentary calculations, it will take approximately 70-75 days, assuming an average of about 60 posts per diem.

"HILL SIOE"?