matt_warfield

The bending over thing with falling rock or ice exposing the neck is similar to somebody above yelling "rock" and instinctively looking up, exposing the face. And not to dis helmets in any way but climbing still has its dangers. A number of years ago at Vantage a climber with a helmet was killed or seriously hurt by a rock that hit just under the helmet at the temple.

With one car then you can choose Whatcom Pass as a logical end point after starting at Hanegan TH and then retrace your steps.

Trip: Squamish various - several Date: 1/20/2010 Trip Report: Just for the stoke, I have some fond memories of Squamish climbing. Taking my son there where he was old enough to drink in BC but not in the US. We watched World Cup soccer, drank beer, and then he led every pitch of Diedre the next day. We only had to wait an hour or so at the base! Climbed Angels Crest and took about 50 pictures before discovering on the summit that there was no film in the camera. I did some guided climbing with Jim Sandford, which was phenomenal. I climbed with him 5 days after he established the first 5.14 in Canada at Chek. I did the Grand Wall and Cruel Shoes among other climbs with him. We did Centerfold and at the base two dudes were asking for beta and wondering whether the advice was good. I walked to my pack and showed them the cover photo of Jim on the guidebook. Enough said. After Cruel Shoes, we are back at the parking lot and nobody recognizes Jim as one of the top rock climbers in N. America but are all grouped around two hot chicks who did the climb just before us. Ha! I saw the photo of the Split Pillar on the cover of Mountain magazine in the 80's I believe and I made it a goal to get on it. After following through (first the Pillar and then Grand Wall a couple of years later) I went into town and saw a poster of the Pillar in a bookstore. I asked the staff if they had one for sale. No, but they did call guidebook author Kevin McClane and gave me the phone to find out if he had any. No, out of print. They ended up giving me the one they had on the wall. You just gotta love small towns... Bellygood: easy but lots of exposure and not a good place for a misstep. Climbing at Smoke Bluffs before all of the houses crowded the area. Doing BC style A0 which makes total sense when you get so much good climbing otherwise. Like Klahanie Crack where you get gorgeous 5.7 jamming but use a tree root to reach the anchors without stressing. And Spit Pillar/Grand Wall where a couple of bolt ladders access some of the best climbing on granite. My only complaint is the lack of an IPA at the Howe Sound Brewery (at least then).

Stim is a great example but he did feel his age when he did Illusion Dweller (Patagucci ad) and was honest in print about the limitations of age at that level of climbing. Beckey has had a monstrous career but still takes a few days off in the mountains. Getting older is about staying in the best shape you can but recognizing that it has an effect. Bachar.

I just listtened to Mastodon at the Zoo on Eastlake. Heavy.

My local liquor store has a lady who sees me come in and says "Here comes trouble" because I chat up the staff and customers in a "humorous" fashion.

I am not an attorney but I will say that the cops probably don't give much of a shit about this because it is too hard to find the perps. If they are smart, they will find a way to make money off the steal and not get caught. Black market, long way away, wait a while, etc. I feel really bad for you as I have loved that shop from the old small space to the new one. Total quality. One of my favorite Redpoint stories was witnessing a dude lobbing off of Heiness Cling full and taking about a 100 footer. I chatted with a guy in Redpoint about it and it turns out it was him! On purpose! Good luck on getting things going again.

These are not all poorly worded comments. These are people that are for the most part outdoor experts and are humans and like freedom and depend on individual responsibility and knowledge for their safety. The AMGA would recommend this if they thought it was really important because they know more about climbing safety than 99.9% of the people on this board. (The remaining .1% post here). Educate and don't legislate and mandate.

If you are going to have single malt there should be NOTHING added. It can't be too strong. Neat means water on the side and not mixed with the scotch because its only there to cleanse the palate between tastes. I prefer the peaty scotches as discussed above but to each their own. Tequila is approaching scotch in quality and attention to OCD alcohol consumers (who have money). St. Andrews is great but Brouwers in Fremont has a whole rack of scotch up to at least 40 yrs. I believe. Take your (full)wallet and have one of their many beers while you ogle the selections. I personally could barely put down my first glass of scotch but have ascended to the level where it just tastes great at the right time and not overdone. But peat is good.

At Granite Mountain, Prescott AZ there is a climb called Beaver Cleaver that starts on a knife edge arete, goes straight up, and doesn't have any pro for 20 ft. or so. I don't know how many women have climbed it but believe me men are at risk as well.

It's always great to get a good TR. You are correct about Cruel Shoes being devious route finding and face climbing and not slabbing, but if you get the urge there is plenty of good slabbing right of Diedre that will put a little charge in most climbers.

I second the opinion that quality is key and not weight. Anybody that worries about a few ounces will reconsider when the shit comes down at night in the mountains with the wrong gear. For a little more weight and money you can get a sack with a single pole at the head end that provides a bit more space.

I am all for safety by any means necessary as a matter of personal responsibility and experience and learning and NOT through legislation. Legislating anything even slightly dangerous will overwhelm our elected officials. Next would be a bill prohibiting 4 cops from being in Starbucks in Seattle at 8:00 a.m. because a freakazoid might walk in and shoot them all. Life is unpredictable. And while we have chatted about this over days, many thousands have died in automobiles or from cancer or heart attacks or drugs or murder or an earthquake in Haiti. I don't want to sound callous but a few climbers on Hood pales in comparison to death and destruction elsewhere. Let climbers be safe by knowledge and experience and DON'T mandate.

Off, I agree with everything you say for this specific case but the implications are big for any adventure sport (surfing, hiking, climbing, skiing, snowboarding, etc.) I agree that they need to be educated and we don't need to demean anybody in office and they have important work to do but if you don't have any experience in the area you shouldn't be touting laws in the area. And to the day I die I will support mankind's pursuit of adventure even if there is risk involved.

These people do not understand the human spirit in the wilderness and climbing. People take risks all the time in all walks of life and are willing to take the risk. Mugs Stump, Alex Lowe, Jonny Copp, and Micah Dash were willing to risk their lives for their passion and paid the ultimate price and I'll bet none of them would have regretted the risk. In the meantime, we have legislation for limiting cell phone use in a car while experts have shown several higher risks (children quarrying in the back seat, eating while driving, applying makeup while driving, adjusting the stereo while driving, etc.) This is bullshit, life is not guaranteed, let people take risks as they choose, and don't legislate it. Alpine hiking and climbing is an adventure and there is no way to ensure safety just as there is no way to ensure that you won't be carjacked or have a home invasion or get in a car wreck. We cannot legislate everything. Life is life and the past and the forever will be with inherent joys and risks in many areas of life. But at the individual's skills and decisions and maybe some luck.

OMG, he looks just like Chris Sharma!

Other reports said he was Matt Miller. The same reports said that temperatures were above freezing and there was water running behind the pillar. However, the taco thread atttests to lots of experience and safe climbing zeal from Miller. But it is ice...

I was thinking that the Jig Saw wall would be good if you could get to the anchors easily. Many Vantage routes have rubble at the top and anchors set lower in solid rock and require hoofing around, leading a neighbor route, and other less than desirable attributes for TR. Party in Your Pants is a good TR with fairly short access back up the chimney and around.

I agree with the above on Icicle post but would add Rotowall for newbs, the Hook Creek Boulder (depending on access), can't remember the name for sure but I think it is Playground Point, and the various crags right across from 8 mile campground

Quite a few in the Icicle if you don't mind hunting and pecking to find the ones with good criteria.

Matt, You can find it all here: http://mikeylikesrocks.com/blog/?p=72 It is a good read and thanks for the link Ben.

The standard is Sharma on Just Do It at Smith. Doffing his jacket partway up 5.14c.

So the Watt's guide is out... that was fast! You can also wear climbing garb in town for full effect. I will never forget seeing some dude wearing his Royal Robbins rock shoes around campus for ultimate posing.

I have a Friend #4 from the very first year they were offered and still use it (new webbing every few years of course). It is remarkable how little the basic design has changed over the years. Jardine, despite eccentricities, revolutionized protection. I also have some nuts from the first year Chouinard offered them after the catalogue with the article on the push toward clean climbing.

I have just a few comments on this (haven't read all the posts though): 1)I have watched many people do pullups who cheat (not full extension at the bottom and don't go chin over the bar). If you want to quote numbers you have to do them proper. 2)Frenchies and lock offs seem to be more applicable to climbing. 3)I went through a pullup regimen and ended up with elbow tendinitis- I recovered but never go beyond parallel of upper arm to the floor as beyond it really stresses the joints and tendons.