matt_warfield

We'll miss your thoughtful posts here. The biggest risk to hikers is gaping around at the top and falling off rather than climbing the wall. No signs up there that I have seen. Hikers heading up the ledge at the base to gawk can be an issue but climbers and their dogs and not hikers appear to be the most at risk but also the least likely to complain and sue. My favorite part is the handicapped parking spots at a site with little if any reasonable potential for disabled folks to head up the trail or do anything else in the vicinity.

Big deal. I ticked that granite problem onsight years ago.

Stop into North Cascades Mountain Guides in Mazama. They can provide lots of info on Methow people, routes, and areas.

Tape is of little use because its got axle grease too.

Thanks Jay. Also got up Spearhead and Petit Grepon and some stuff on Lumpy. There is a ridiculous amount of rock in Rocky Mountain National Park and in Colorado in general.

Trip: Colorado - Casual Route and Birds of Fire Date: 8/10/2005 Trip Report: A Tale of Two Killer Alpine Walls in Colorado Pictures are from Mountain Project since camera was lost (see report) Longs Peak, Diamond, Casual Route (IV, 5.10a) They say that the most active social scene in Estes Park after midnight in the summer is the Longs Peak trailhead. So there my partner and I were at 2:00 a.m. preparing to climb the Diamond car-to-car that day. Picture of The Diamond, the 1000' foot Diagonal is below and not pictured, from Mountain Project Off we went, storming up the trail by headlamp. At the Boulderfield, we paused and chatted for a bit before being accosted by a sleeping hiker (common camping spot for the walkup trail up Longs) who indicated his desire to fight anybody making noise around the sleepers. We pointed out that he was camping on a trail frequented by nighttime travelers and that perhaps he should shut the f*** up. Then we moved on. We got to Chasm view to rappel in to Broadway as the shorter North Chimney approach involves snow/ice and loose rock. It was just getting light as we started the rappels to Broadway, the ledge system splitting the Diagonal and the Diamond on the east face of Longs. Sunrise found us on the first pitch broken pillar. Then, superb 5.9 crack led to a 100' foot 5.7 traverse with poor protection. The meat of the climb is spectacular climbing up a dihedral with sharp incuts on the face, leading to a moderate 5.8 rating although the altitude will have you huffing and puffing most likely and most agree the altitude makes things feel a number grade harder. More crack, a strenuous squeeze chimney, and the crux led to Table Ledge. From afar, Table Ledge (really a crack for most of its width) is very obvious but when on face, you wonder where the hell it is first time up cuz you can't see it. A very exposed belay led to a very unfortunate dropping of my lumbar pack. The dropped pack went 800' to Broadway without hitting the rock (the Diamond is steep) then bounced down Fields chimney. Ah screw it. U-oh, wallet, car keys, camera are in there. Gotta go back. After summiting, we retraced our steps and rapped back to Broadway and then down Fields, eventually finding the pack 1500' below the drop site, and the attached water bottle (still intact and in my memento section) on the glacier 2000' below the drop site. The wallet and keys were OK but the camera was not surprisingly toast. In the meantime, our attempt to be below treeline by early afternoon to avoid storms had been derailed by the drop and lightning was starting to happen. Luckily none near us and we made the trailhead in time for happy hour About 18 miles, 5000' vertical, and 800' of killer climbing. Note: The route got its name when Charlie Fowler free solo'd it and when asked how it went, he said "casual". The original name was dumped in favor of the current name. Chiefshead, Northwest Face, Birds of Fire (IV, 5.11a R) The face with the route depicted from Mountain Project Another early start. The eight mile approach was lenghthened by two miles because of a road closure but we were psyched for another car-to-car event. The approach was uneventful except for some steep annoying snow and a moat to get on the route. (I tolerate snow but love alpine rock). As soon as we were established on the wall, a marmot started racing up the glacier toward my pack. I tried air to ground defense with rocks but the snafflehound soon figured I was a poor shot and advanced. I figured my pack was going to suffer and we went on about the cimb. This climb is primarily bolted, but it ain't no weinie roast. There are about 30 bolts in 8 pitches and full 200' 5.9 pitches have just a few bolts. Also, for 'dawg and ilk's information, nobody on earth except those cimbing the route can see the bolts. In fact, when on route you can't see them until 10' away and it is easy to get off route where you don't see them at all, in part due to trembling knees. Even hardcore trad folks have admitted it is a fine route. Anyway crack and thought provoking face lead to a very thin crux move. Several pitches of thin, devious, and mind blowingly excellent face cimbing lead to an upper dihedral which is skirted on the left. The route is then rappeled. My pack, amazingly enough, just had one small chew hole in it. Thanks snaffle! After walking out, we got on a tourist bus, stinky and with our packs jammed into the seat in front but with the biggest shit eating grins one could imagine. Around 20 miles, 5000' vertical, 1000' climbing Gear Notes Casual 2 ropes and full alpine rack take tool or sharp rock and butt-clench ability if taking North Chimney approach MMA skills if belligerent hikers are encountered don't drop the pack if you plan on dropping the pack, keep keys and wallet on person Birds 2 ropes, quickdraws, small rack don't forget sunglasses (I did) cuz its light granite and catches sun comfy shoes cuz its a long climb with a lot of thin face These are two of the finest alpine walls in N. america. Go get some.

Go for a reality TV show. Gotta be as good as the Kardashians

Or Vantage. Stay in Levenworth and take day trips when the weather indicates.

And points to Dave for blessing us not with endless spray but with perspective on the route with his 34th post.

Chronic is always dry.

Not to disrupt the current discussion but spotting is a skill that requires careful thought and continuous attention to the consequences of a fall from any position on the problem.

That's "Super Dave" for the uninitiated.

I've been a few places and done a few climbs.

Escape harm in a current court case Get a quickie divorce for cheap while under no-contact order Try to find stolen items from storage Quit marrying crazy women (see items 1-3 above cuz it seriously screws with climbing) Get back to climbing but keep looking at the pictures from my two best climbs ever: Diamond- Long's Peak (may be a TR if I have time) Grand Wall- Squamish

Next time your rappeling prusik just cut em down and carry them out. just leave one or two new runners behind. then again this qoute may be a joke I cant tell sometimes? Cut the rap slings on Prusik. The W. Ridge can be downclimbed. It was a joke. My attempt at sarcastic humor was to poke fun at a subject that will never be resolved. Meanwhile most of us live and let live. Sharma has done many 5.15s with hanging draws while others spray 5.15.

What soulreaper said. Viewers please separate wheat from chaff. And we need to pay attention to real problems like fixed rappel anchors on Prusik Peak. So unsightly.....

Lungs with legs.

Cord Man, I think you really have the right idea to get ready for the big stone. Peruse your earlier thread and I think you will find some good routes at Index to hone your skills. Like was said before, big walls have a lot of logistics so work hard on cleaning, hauling, and overall efficiency. Find a partner with experience and you will greatly benefit. Or swallow some ego and hire a guide. Good luck on your preparations and on the proj down south.

And then there is the thread about a missing hanger. Wonder how Kayfire feels about that.

What they said, plus: Some of the best food and entertainment in the world is in Vegas. You must prioritize with your limited rest days (which likely will not be that restful). Stay in a cheap place but visit the classic high end casinos for full entertainment value. Play only blackjack and craps for the best odds (and sports if you think you are astute), run for your lives from slots, roulette and other brain dead games (unless the clientele is enticing enough). Buy a condo with your winnings due to the market crash down there. Go to Spearmint Rhino and take plenty of small bills. Oh and do some climbing! Epinephrine after an all nighter in the casinos is full value. Place a bet for me on how many years it takes for Sharma's 15b to be repeated on Charleston (or is it Clark) (i'll say 3 years). If Adam Ondra isn't excluded, cut the time in half. Have fun!

As Hugh indicated, there is some good rock on the Baja Peninsula but the walls around the Arch at Cabo look great from afar but upon close inspection are loose and scaly as Gspotter alluded to. Leave the gear at home and have fun with booze, dancing, sun, sand, paragliding, the quest for marlin, trying to avoid beggars and time share salespersons (same gene pool but different incomes), and best of all the in-the-pool happy hours and the all you can drink booze cruises! J-Tree or other venues are waiting for you on return or once the hangover subsides. And flashclimber, kudos for your avatar, you can become the new Couloir of cc.com.

You seem to assume that those that urge a cautious approach building big wall skills prior to El Cap Grade VI are just sitting at the computer and dogging you. Perhaps this is their way to help you enjoy your experience more instead of cheerleading you into a potential epic. You asked for advice and you got it from some experienced people. After you get on the route you can go back over this thread and decide what was good beta and what was bad. Regardless, enjoy your preparation and good luck on the climb. Your enthusiasm and determination will serve you well.

"climbing studs" This equates to knowledge + experience + skill set. CC.com runs the gamut and it is everyone's responsibilty to ferret out information that they believe in a thread such as this.

I agree with Sherri and Ivan, who both always deliver the humor and a 4 dimensional viewpoint. It is all about that curious mix of information and entertainment that keeps bringing us back. BTW, I did a TR on Classic Crack in Leavenworth, all 50 feet of it and ended up with over 5000 page views. I guess some folks enjoyed. Anybody remember Uncle Tricky? His TRs were the bomb for humor.

I agree completely. I used to go for sale ropes which were usually from a miscellaneous provider and usually butt ugly. I decided to pay a bit more for the consistent quality of Mammut.