matt_warfield

todd skinner knows what to do about that..... and did it on a neighboring crack

My thing 1 is old enough to drink so kind of forgot about that. Thanks for the memories though

how many "things" are there? Add 'em all up and you have every things?

how many "things" are there?

lg you can get on the bolt ladder start to godzilla to get a good taste of well protected index 5.10- to avoid surprises on other index bolted climbs

I agree with erik. even really high end slipper climbers keep 'em comfy for most routes, but have a really tight pair for the hardest ones. besides, if they're comfy, they don't stretch as much. I tried 5.10 first but they just don't fit my feet regardless of size. Cobras are the deal for me.

well I agree on that. got the 50 fave climbs calendar up and if roxanna brock falls off epinephrine wearing her shorts and tank she's losing lots of skin. but she doesn't fall. the joy is in the upward movement in chimneys or the lack thereof!

anybody that loves that initial chimney on s. face should really just continue on chimneying up burgner-stanley for full value and skip b-d. And don't forget to skip some pro too because b-s chimney pitches are too well protected

Thanks for the comments Caveman. We're getting on it primarily because of Kearney's recommendation so we'll see how it goes. We're going to skip the chimney and take the 5.8 variation just left. I expect the summit crack to be stiff but hope the 2 pitches off Snafflehound are stellar.

I can appreciate that there are those that neither believe in nor participate in the permit system. However, I always try for permits in advance and, if successful, do it that way so you don't have to act like a fugitive. I have been in there about 6 times now over 10 years or so and was only forced to be dissident once. I was already in earlier this year (an embarrassment of riches for my group this year on permits) and appreciated being the only ones on Prusik on a weekend.

No problem bp- I know you were just funning me. It's not like I haven't seen that ANY subject can be turned into sexual banter here. Besides, there would be no hanky panky on the first night- you know, performance issues. And the second night it would be only with permit holders- I'm sure that is in the USFS regulations somewhere!

Sure, that's cool. We'll try to be extra careful with all the rubble on Snafflehound Ledge- depending on how much more shit you fling! Seriously, who cares how "permitted" you are. Once you get there and touch that golden granite, you're in heaven whether you got paper or no

Does that mean that all of you hardmen (or women) also ignore the permit system in Boston Basin and elsewhere in Washington? Are the trail-cops more wily and hardy in some other places? Anybody been arrested? And I can play the game if necessary. Got away with a "daytrip" into Dragontail starting at about 4:00 p.m. a few years back. No rangers bivvied up on the peak.....

My party of 4 has turned into a party of 2 for the Enchantments (Snow Creek entry/exit) over 9/7-9/10 (3 nights). Is there a party of 2 that would like to "join" our party and use the remaining 2 permits? We're going in early on 9/7 (6:00 a.m. ish). We would prefer 2 lovely ladies, or next best 2 ugly guys (to reduce competition for lovely ladies already in the basin), but will accept inquries from other interested parties as well. We don't really want competition on the S. Face Beckey-Davis route on Prusik Pk. on Sunday, but otherwise don't care what the joining party's agenda is, as long as they abide by the regulations and don't bring heat on us. Contact me at mjw4169@yahoo.com matt warfield

Advance permits "sell-out" for the whole summer season soon after the March 1 acceptance date. You have a reasonable chance for lottery permits on a daily basis, especially for just 2 people. Lotteries happen each day: check the Wenatchee National Forest Service web site. Plan on staying around Leavenworth for a couple days so you can try again if you don't get one initially. And the rangers do check permits regularly.

I'm planning a trip to Sharkfin Tower to do the ridge route and the rap-off face pitches. Searching this site, I found some references from last year to removeable bolts on the face pitches. I find it hard to believe that Nelson wouldn't mention this important fact in his Select guide, so thought I'd query the troops on this subject. I'm new at this site but have enjoyed the info and banter.