matt_warfield

It's a really fun place to go for tequila, sun, fishing, etc. but if you really want to go rock climbing, you will BE at Josh as Cabo is a tit on a boar hog in comparison. When in Rome, do as the Romans do and in Cabo it ain't rock climbing.

I agree as well. Cascades alpine has a whole different flavor than the High Sierra and Yosemite. For clean hard climbing, cragging may suit him better.

Skaha, Leavenworth, Smith Don't pick too many. I know you like variety but getting to know any one of those locations well will fill up not only a spring but years of outings. All of these areas have many crags and subareas that reward knowledge of the area with great climbing and less thumbing through the book, scoping, and thrashing.

I have not climbed Mescalito but do know that, as was mentioned above, single or several pitch climbs of any rating are not proper preparation for Grade VI on the Captain. You should go early or extend your trip and train in Yosemite on Grade IV and Grade V to build your skills. Otherwise you WILL be schooled. This response is assuming this is a serious post. I mean Pioneer Route is a bolt ladder for Christ's sake.

Or V+, 5.6+

I just hate those difficult ground avoidance moves. Put that together with tricky walking and its definitely one for the ages.

right because accidents like the Vance Atkins one from he 90s where he broke off a big hold which broke his belayers arm, then fell on his belayer since he was no longer belayed, breaking his leg and rupturing the belayer's spleen, don't kill anybody so they are acceptable right? vantage is a pile. it will never in a trillion years magically turn into solid rock. Yes, a pile just like Glacier Point Apron. Face it, as other posters have suggested, rock fall and loose holds are a part of the climbing life and I will still say that dangerous rock fall at Vantage per climbing day is not that much different than at other areas of all kinds of rock. To be truly safe, stay home in a rocking chair and risk a heart attack and a life limited by fear of risk.

A friend forgot to put his GriGri in checked luggage and ended up with it in his carry on bag. This was a few years back (post 9/2001 but pre underwear bomber) but consider the confusion of explaining the purpose of a high density metal device with some strange purpose to a security person. He finessed his way through it but who knows what would happen now.

I know it has happened (e.g. Medicine Man at the Feathers) but is not as common as the rumor mill states. I have taken and belayed many falls and have never experienced it. Much depends on the experience of the route developer in placing bolts in solid rock and if one can't do that then don't put the route in.

I am sorry for all of your experiences but I have climbed at Vantage for hundreds of days over 15 years and have never been threatened by rock fall. Stay away from the pillar tops, belay off to the side, avoid crowded areas, and check holds on suspect pillar walls like Sunshine Wall. You are still likely more vulnerable to people dislodging rocks from the top or access trails/ledges. Helmets are good but Vantage gets a bad rep. Of course its not granite but is still much safer than most alpine climbs.

My congrats as well as I have seen him in action. However, he did fall asleep during the Justin Sjong slideshow so he still needs training on the "total" climbing experience.

From Granite Mountain in Arizona: "Granite Jungle" which is a squeeze chimney "Coke Bottle" which is a chimney with a narrow exit "Beaver Cleaver" which is a face climb directly above a sharp arete "Thin Slice of Humble Pie" which is a thin face climb "Slide Action Traction" which is a slippery slab/face "Bleak Streak" which is a runout face climb

Minimal trad at E32 and E38 unless you want to incorporate bolts in your practice. Plus wet. I concur with RuMR because the last I heard there are quite a few cracks at Index. Try Great Northern Slab area first.

When in doubt, talk to the Mayor of Smith (Ian) who knows all. Or Redpoint, but they are a bit busy right now...

I agree with noggin. The FA was done without realizing they were in wilderness but it seems ridiculous to chop the route and then reestablish it by drilling by hand which in MOP would not happen. What is done is done and folks are really enjoying the climb. And the FA team is responsible for a huge number of routes enjoyed by many. It was an honest mistake that required a huge commitment.

I'm with Dane on this one. Better to ask people who know their shit rather than the alternative.

Gadd recently did a 24 hr. ice session on TR in Ouray, doing 194 laps with about 25,000 ft. of vertical. I would definiely look at his regimen for endurance.

I agree with TimL. Treat the gym as a place to train and not tick hard lines at least not one after the other. Identify holds that don't work for you and skip those routes. It could be sharpness or shape or whatnot but figure out which ones work. Lots of mileage on routes under your outdoor standard could be your goal and save your fingers.

My last car had 240K and doing well until it got nicknamed "The Deer Killer" during an unfortunate incident at night on the way to Smith Rock and started developing electrical problems. My current car is at about 180K but the odomometer quit functioning at 169K so just an estimate. But it got stolen a couple of times last year and is showing its age. Glad you had a good trip for some backcountry action in a beautiful area.

I had my car stolen last year (recovered after a few days) and the perps tried to get the stereo but just disabled it and took everything in the glove box, disabled the sunroof so it now leaks, and ran the hell out of the car. The reason this belongs in this thread is that in the back seat were a pair of panties so I assumed a rack was involved at some point. Insurance was never involved as I felt it was a fair trade.

You can't underestimate how much you will learn from a guide in one trip. They have spent years learning and gaining experience. You get knowledge and success in most cases while others wallow in inexperience and doubt and don't get either. Good luck.

You got that right. The first time you ask if a woman is pregnant and they say they aren't might be your last day on earth.

And since you are just getting started, you have to think about the broad range of climbing possibilities (bouldering, sport climbing, crag climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, scrambling) and decide where your interests lie.

Well Colin is a great role model for you younguns. He is occasionally around at cc.com events so keep your eyes peeled. I started climbing in my teens and have enjoyed decades of it. Be safe and look forward to a lifetime of fun.

It is a great goal but Colins don't just grow on trees.