matt_warfield

Or V+, 5.6+

I just hate those difficult ground avoidance moves. Put that together with tricky walking and its definitely one for the ages.

right because accidents like the Vance Atkins one from he 90s where he broke off a big hold which broke his belayers arm, then fell on his belayer since he was no longer belayed, breaking his leg and rupturing the belayer's spleen, don't kill anybody so they are acceptable right? vantage is a pile. it will never in a trillion years magically turn into solid rock. Yes, a pile just like Glacier Point Apron. Face it, as other posters have suggested, rock fall and loose holds are a part of the climbing life and I will still say that dangerous rock fall at Vantage per climbing day is not that much different than at other areas of all kinds of rock. To be truly safe, stay home in a rocking chair and risk a heart attack and a life limited by fear of risk.

A friend forgot to put his GriGri in checked luggage and ended up with it in his carry on bag. This was a few years back (post 9/2001 but pre underwear bomber) but consider the confusion of explaining the purpose of a high density metal device with some strange purpose to a security person. He finessed his way through it but who knows what would happen now.

I know it has happened (e.g. Medicine Man at the Feathers) but is not as common as the rumor mill states. I have taken and belayed many falls and have never experienced it. Much depends on the experience of the route developer in placing bolts in solid rock and if one can't do that then don't put the route in.

I am sorry for all of your experiences but I have climbed at Vantage for hundreds of days over 15 years and have never been threatened by rock fall. Stay away from the pillar tops, belay off to the side, avoid crowded areas, and check holds on suspect pillar walls like Sunshine Wall. You are still likely more vulnerable to people dislodging rocks from the top or access trails/ledges. Helmets are good but Vantage gets a bad rep. Of course its not granite but is still much safer than most alpine climbs.

My congrats as well as I have seen him in action. However, he did fall asleep during the Justin Sjong slideshow so he still needs training on the "total" climbing experience.

From Granite Mountain in Arizona: "Granite Jungle" which is a squeeze chimney "Coke Bottle" which is a chimney with a narrow exit "Beaver Cleaver" which is a face climb directly above a sharp arete "Thin Slice of Humble Pie" which is a thin face climb "Slide Action Traction" which is a slippery slab/face "Bleak Streak" which is a runout face climb

Minimal trad at E32 and E38 unless you want to incorporate bolts in your practice. Plus wet. I concur with RuMR because the last I heard there are quite a few cracks at Index. Try Great Northern Slab area first.

When in doubt, talk to the Mayor of Smith (Ian) who knows all. Or Redpoint, but they are a bit busy right now...

I agree with noggin. The FA was done without realizing they were in wilderness but it seems ridiculous to chop the route and then reestablish it by drilling by hand which in MOP would not happen. What is done is done and folks are really enjoying the climb. And the FA team is responsible for a huge number of routes enjoyed by many. It was an honest mistake that required a huge commitment.

I'm with Dane on this one. Better to ask people who know their shit rather than the alternative.

Gadd recently did a 24 hr. ice session on TR in Ouray, doing 194 laps with about 25,000 ft. of vertical. I would definiely look at his regimen for endurance.

I agree with TimL. Treat the gym as a place to train and not tick hard lines at least not one after the other. Identify holds that don't work for you and skip those routes. It could be sharpness or shape or whatnot but figure out which ones work. Lots of mileage on routes under your outdoor standard could be your goal and save your fingers.

My last car had 240K and doing well until it got nicknamed "The Deer Killer" during an unfortunate incident at night on the way to Smith Rock and started developing electrical problems. My current car is at about 180K but the odomometer quit functioning at 169K so just an estimate. But it got stolen a couple of times last year and is showing its age. Glad you had a good trip for some backcountry action in a beautiful area.

I had my car stolen last year (recovered after a few days) and the perps tried to get the stereo but just disabled it and took everything in the glove box, disabled the sunroof so it now leaks, and ran the hell out of the car. The reason this belongs in this thread is that in the back seat were a pair of panties so I assumed a rack was involved at some point. Insurance was never involved as I felt it was a fair trade.

You can't underestimate how much you will learn from a guide in one trip. They have spent years learning and gaining experience. You get knowledge and success in most cases while others wallow in inexperience and doubt and don't get either. Good luck.

You got that right. The first time you ask if a woman is pregnant and they say they aren't might be your last day on earth.

And since you are just getting started, you have to think about the broad range of climbing possibilities (bouldering, sport climbing, crag climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, scrambling) and decide where your interests lie.

Well Colin is a great role model for you younguns. He is occasionally around at cc.com events so keep your eyes peeled. I started climbing in my teens and have enjoyed decades of it. Be safe and look forward to a lifetime of fun.

It is a great goal but Colins don't just grow on trees.

The bending over thing with falling rock or ice exposing the neck is similar to somebody above yelling "rock" and instinctively looking up, exposing the face. And not to dis helmets in any way but climbing still has its dangers. A number of years ago at Vantage a climber with a helmet was killed or seriously hurt by a rock that hit just under the helmet at the temple.

With one car then you can choose Whatcom Pass as a logical end point after starting at Hanegan TH and then retrace your steps.

Trip: Squamish various - several Date: 1/20/2010 Trip Report: Just for the stoke, I have some fond memories of Squamish climbing. Taking my son there where he was old enough to drink in BC but not in the US. We watched World Cup soccer, drank beer, and then he led every pitch of Diedre the next day. We only had to wait an hour or so at the base! Climbed Angels Crest and took about 50 pictures before discovering on the summit that there was no film in the camera. I did some guided climbing with Jim Sandford, which was phenomenal. I climbed with him 5 days after he established the first 5.14 in Canada at Chek. I did the Grand Wall and Cruel Shoes among other climbs with him. We did Centerfold and at the base two dudes were asking for beta and wondering whether the advice was good. I walked to my pack and showed them the cover photo of Jim on the guidebook. Enough said. After Cruel Shoes, we are back at the parking lot and nobody recognizes Jim as one of the top rock climbers in N. America but are all grouped around two hot chicks who did the climb just before us. Ha! I saw the photo of the Split Pillar on the cover of Mountain magazine in the 80's I believe and I made it a goal to get on it. After following through (first the Pillar and then Grand Wall a couple of years later) I went into town and saw a poster of the Pillar in a bookstore. I asked the staff if they had one for sale. No, but they did call guidebook author Kevin McClane and gave me the phone to find out if he had any. No, out of print. They ended up giving me the one they had on the wall. You just gotta love small towns... Bellygood: easy but lots of exposure and not a good place for a misstep. Climbing at Smoke Bluffs before all of the houses crowded the area. Doing BC style A0 which makes total sense when you get so much good climbing otherwise. Like Klahanie Crack where you get gorgeous 5.7 jamming but use a tree root to reach the anchors without stressing. And Spit Pillar/Grand Wall where a couple of bolt ladders access some of the best climbing on granite. My only complaint is the lack of an IPA at the Howe Sound Brewery (at least then).

Stim is a great example but he did feel his age when he did Illusion Dweller (Patagucci ad) and was honest in print about the limitations of age at that level of climbing. Beckey has had a monstrous career but still takes a few days off in the mountains. Getting older is about staying in the best shape you can but recognizing that it has an effect. Bachar.