matt_warfield

Who needs dogs when we get snafflehounds for free to eat your food and destroy your gear. They don't need a leash and need little care.

Don't go solo and have a boulder roll onto your wrist.

Think about it every time you do Givler's Crack.

Dean Potter would just cast off with a parapente.

Despite the naysayers, dogs bring a lot to the table when well attended to. At Smith I ran into a dog who was a cross between a Bassett hound and a St. Bernard. (The male was the Bassett). It was very well behaved, ridiculous looking, and the owners treated everything fine. It depends on the dog, the location, and the owners. All three are crucial.

Because it's out of reach for most of us mere mortals. Also, some of us don't find that "fun". And in climbing, it doesn't have to be fun to be fun.

Ironically Peter got questioned by The Man about why anybody would be walking up the road or trail in the middle of the night. Concerns about regulations really crimp creativity in the outdoor world. And I understand Croft has another level. But there are plenty of people that post on this site that could or have done huge one day trips that don't require permits.

I got the scoop on this route in 2004 on my honeymoon from some dude named Mark Allen, who suggested it as an alternative to other popular moderate routes in WA Pass area. It turns out he knew what he was talking about since he knew about the FA but I dragged my wife up Liberty Bell instead. It was the third wife whom I thought would enjoy a rock climbing adventure as a honeymoon. I am currently single.

I saw a climber take a 100 foot fall on Heinous Cling full at Smith. All bolted routes are not casual. 5.15b would not exist without reasonably placed bolts. Realization (first 5.15a) is a whole different animal than Serpentine Arete as are the thousands of easier bolted routes that have made so many climbers happy. Live and let live: such an easy concept but rarely followed.

Years ago I went to the Snow Creek TH to go climbing and every single car had been broken into. Stuart TH as well is a target as it is more isolated. My car got broken into in broad daylight at Vantage, stereo stolen, I replaced it and had it stolen the same day it was installed at Exit 38. All trailheads and parking areas are vulnerable. These things can happen in 5 minutes. Patrols are rarely going to catch it. The key is to have a crappy car with no stereo and nothing of value inside. And understand that it is a risk that comes with outdoor activity.

Just turn a multiday trip into a one day trip. Peter Croft started at the road on Icicle, hiked up to Stuart TH, free solo'd N. Ridge of Stuart complete then Dragontail then Prusik. All in one day. An inspiration for us all and no permit required.

Ivan, As it was described to me, you have to be on the Dragontail/Stuart ridgeline to avoid the permit but there were few rangers on the Backbone route or Serpentine. The devil is in the details.

Be fit, do not camp (the biggest impact and requires no permit) and leave no trace. This is what experienced wilderness people do.

What, no Cruel Shoes or Grand Wall or Exasporator (full)? You have to keep experiencing the joys of Squamish. Keep working.

Wonderful. Look forward to having a grandaughter someday. It may blow your mind.

Gary, Sometimes I can't resist a dry fly drifting right by my mouth. Climbing involves many risks, and for trad and alpine folks that can and will involve loss of gear. Somebody spent hundreds or thousands of dollars preparing and getting to their climb so the price of hardware is mininmal. It is called booty and you should treat it as such.

Duly noted. I appreciate accurate information. But it was an event in Canada by someone with cajones down to the knees.

At each end of the social spectrum there is a leisure class, quoting a prominent Yosemite veteran. Guess which end climbers are on. In the middle are the rest of us.

Let us not forget about our Canadian neighbors like Sandford, Croft (to begin with), Stanhope, Trotter, Beckham, and many others who cut their teeth in Squamish which is just a somewhat smaller version of Yosemite but have done a whole lot of 5.11 onsight on slabs, cracks of all sizes, sport, and etc. A key example is the first ascent of Pipeline, 5.10d sandbag offwidth that was done free solo. Pussies need not apply. Even Raindawg would approve. And I agree with Rumr's list but must correct that it is Mikey and not Mike. I might add Burdo to the list.

What I know for sure is that ivan kicks everyone's ass at humor regardless of the type or difficulty of climbing.

For more good granite in the mountains and with your skill level, give The Diamond in CO a try or some sweet Sierra stuff like Incredible Hulk. The Casual Route on the Diamond was named because same Fowler free solo'd it and described it as such.

If you spent 4 years with good and competent guides you would not have to ask this question or many others. One or at most several days with a real guide or experienced partner is more valuable than can be easily expressed on the internet. Next best is to sort the wheat from the chaff on this site as some very good climbers are willing to help if you can sort them out and are willing to pay attention.

Congats to Robert for the video, Rudy for the genes and support, and especially Drew for being the climber. Also note the support credit on the vid: checking account, credit cards, paycheck.

!!! until the Phoenix

And Colorado sure as hell isn't the only area with such characters!