lunger

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Girth Pillar via lower N Ridge Date: 7/27/2007 Trip Report: A couple days ago, Kevin N. and I found this route in great shape. Seems a bit has been written here before; I'll echo the general sentiment that the Pillar features some of the finest rock climbing in the Cascades. 3 pitches of steep, sustained, and thought-provoking climbing in stupendous position--words and pictures fail. Go climb it. Left Mountaineers Cr to climb the lower N Ridge (fun rock by itself), then gained the Ice Cliff Gl above the calving seracs. Surmounted minor firn/neve difficulties to make good time to the pillar (hit the base of the business mid-morning, and Stuart greeted us w/ an impressive clamor of snow shedding from the NE Face slabs). I drew the first pitch, which had negligible wetness, fun moves and a good wake-up call for the steepness above. Kevin sent the p.2 crux on-sight, and I followed cleanly--we were stoked. The third and last pillar-pitch rocks--high mountain woody time. The Sherpa Glacier descent is probably past its prime, but we had the glacier gear along, and 'twas nice to get our dried husks out of the sun. Currently the descent--fairly technical with hard snow and loose rock--was probably more taxing for me than the ascent (fatigue?). Rapped once to clear a 'shrund, burning some of our booty. (We netted 8 stoppers and 2 'biners, one a bitchin'...neutrino! On the Girth Pillar! Imagine that.) I'd be curious if anybody can corroborate AlpineDave's posting in another thread: " I'm surprised no one has mentioned rapping one of the buttresses further East from the Sherpa glacier. I've read a report of people climbing close to the base of the West Ridge of Sherpa, and then rapping down to the basin below. Sounded pretty strait forward, with maybe 8-10 single rope rapps at existing stations. " I've not done the NW Buttress descent, but am casting about for the best option this time of year. The Teanaway/Ingall's approach would've been WAY hot late last week, and didn't fit well w/ our plans. We didn't see any humans on the N side. For several hours during the climb, a hummingbird accompanied us with its sound effects--cool. Hiked down in the cool of the early evening. Encountered a porcupine, and a beautiful, resident buck both on way up and down. On the wildlife topic, the friendly bugs also embraced us with open mandibles and proboscises, always spurring action. Arrived in der hamlet w/ a flat tire to fix, just past kitchen closings. Contented w/ the Champagne of Beers and chips for the tired drive home. Kevin passed out in the passenger seat; I only passed out once (Chevy Chase style), luckily while stopped at a Monroe traffic light. Some pics, a few more in the gallery: leaving rock for the glacier: step of vertical snow: Pillar shots were challenging, with sunlit glaciers and shadowed climbers. You photog's out there please chime in w/ advice on how to get a good shot in these conditions, sans flash. One attempt yielded an impressionistic result--the blur appropriately connoting K's speed (and steeze): K following p1: This pic's for the special edifier (caption = "not exit 38"): sendbot: a more chill portion of the descent: go that way: Gear Notes: medium large rack was good to have.

tried pm but no go. interested in ltweight therma, and z rest. will try pm later w/ details

more importantly...forget it.

Right on, Jon, way to put together some long days! No BMW required. Looking over at the Star/Oval area, I wouldn't have guessed at the lacustrine beauty. I hope to get out with you on this and the 'next 50' project...strategy: save a relatively easy one for your 100th birthday.

Hansel; so hot right now. which route(s) has(ve) the cool-looking chimneys and squeezes? nice day on the upper walls yesterday, despite some mugginess.

right on fellas! envious.

funny report. i agree--Sessions are 11 ounces each. we're onto you weird hat folk. never trust a gypsy, rotary, or whatever.

yes you are--you love ow/squeeze chims with spice...and the topper 20' of hand/fistcrack makes that pitch oh so worthwhile. Ross is so generous, he let me lead the 2p of off-size fun in exchange for taking the .11 block of 2 pitches up top: a STEEP pitch of stellar and varied fingers and hands; then the wild 'jump on the fumble' move, a strenuous undercling fling to embrace the football chockstone. this was a fun route! a couple pics here, and a couple more in the gallery: "intimidating-looking" L-facing chimney etc: Ross follows p2: Here's the novel football (too busy belaying this strenuous lead to get an action pic): cool cannonhole in big kanga:

Yeah, there were probably 3 20-meter stretches that were decent climbing. (The info. we had was sketchy and conflicting; not to imply that we'd have hit it right w/ perfect info. anyway.) I drew a decent section of steep fingers (maybe 9/10-) and then fun hands (in hindsight, it gets better in recollection all the time, of course.) The best stretch was probably this last headwall pitch, that Ross led at approx .10+: and the next best pitch, downclimbing the descent gully:

right on Ross, thanks for the pics...and the CDs, invaluable for the long drive back! Pos Vibes = spectacular; 'unreal' does describe the high quality of climbing on the Hulk. highly recommend it as a worthy trip from the Valley, or from anywhere for that matter!

cool! thanks for the info!

i can't seem to get PM's to work. re: 7.5 W montrails unless these run small, i'll buy 'em. not sure if my paypal acct still active, but can send check. or meet in seattle, if you are in vicinity.

"The following morning, Don took advantage of two skiers' steps (thanks, guys) to climb Snowfield’s NW face, while..." That was us, you're welcome. Nice trip and report! Looking S from Snowfield def. inspires an urge to return for a tour akin to yours--views hard to beat.

(g)ripper!

hadn't seen these until now, sweet pics! finally the Goldilocks conditions--glad i was there for too little, too much, not just right. riiiiiiggght. bugger!

so that's what the kids are calling it these days. hope to catch you guys there tonight.

wow, tough acts to follow. here's my 11th hour submission--too late to get to my other computer for better... scenic - from this January - winter sunrise on EMS, D Needle, El Dorado skiing - lucky shot - on NF Shuksan, Price Lake background humor - Sky in lately purchased fireman's $10 hard hat atop Chianti craggin' - Direct E Buttress Middle Cathedral - El Cap back alpine - Fin-top traverse, Backbone Ridge on Dragontail - always pretty Colchuck Lake in background

thanks for the pics, i dig the climbing in that canyon. have also been forced to detour around a mature moose en route to a.m. climbing there--intimidating creatures!

on this topic, happened to get this apropos piece just today: THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST ACCORDING TO JEFF FOXWORTHY 1. You know the state flower (Mildew). 2. You feel guilty throwing aluminum cans or paper in the trash. 3. Use the statement "sun break" and know what it means 4. You know more than 10 ways to order coffee. 5. You know more people who own boats rather than air conditioners. 6. You feel overdressed wearing a suit to a nice restaurant. 7. You stand on a deserted corner in the rain waiting for the "Walk" Signal. 8. You consider that if it has no snow or has not recently erupted, it is not a real mountain. 9. You can taste the difference between Starbucks, Seattle's Best, and Veneto's. 10. You know the difference between Chinook, Coho and Sockeye salmon. 11. You know how to pronounce Sequim, Puyallup, Issaquah, Oregon, Yakima and Willamette. 12. You consider swimming an indoor sport. 13. You can tell the difference between Japanese, Chinese and Thai food. 14. In winter, you go to work in the dark and come home in the dark while only working eight-hour days. 15. You never go camping without waterproof matches and a poncho. 16. You are not fazed by "Today's forecast: showers followed by rain," and "Tomorrow's forecast: rain followed by showers." 17. You have no concept of humidity without precipitation. 18. You know that Boring is a town in Oregon and not just a state of mind. 19. You can point to at least two volcanoes, even if you cannot see through the cloud cover. 20. You notice, "The mountain is out" when it is a pretty day and you can actually see it. 21. You put on your shorts when the temperature gets above 50, but still wear your hiking boots and parka 22. You switch to your sandals when it gets about 60, but keep the socks on. 23. You have actually used your mountain bike on a mountain. 24. You think people who use umbrellas are either wimps or tourists. 25. You buy new sunglasses every year, because you cannot find the old ones after such a long time. 26. You measure distance in hours. 27. You often switch from "heat" to "a/c" in the same day. 28. You design your kid's Halloween costume to fit under a raincoat. 29. You know all the important seasons: Almost Winter, Winter, Still Raining (Spring), Road Construction (Summer), Deer & Elk season (Fall). 30. You actually understood these jokes and will probably forward them

booker

right on man!

my bad, but not so bad: just looked at the map, and it was >1200', sucka. approx .5 mi short of Marble creek bridge. woulda been higher and dryer (wetter? stuck, anyway) had I listened to you.

2 days ago, got stymied in a Subaru ~ 1600' or so, i.e. ~ 6-7 mi. up the Cascade R. Rd. Prob. a little melt since, and higher clearance would do some better.

right on Colin--looks like a surreal experience.

nicshe work. "a giant among our people," har har! way to tend them rabbits, george and lennie, Lilliputian and Brobdingnagian punks...