lunger

Nice work gents. Doing the climb and the de-proach in one day is burly. We didn't have enough Knob Creek to pull that off. Yeah, that corner fist crack pitch stands out, though many of its inferior kin offer stupendous position. A couple weeks ago we had clear skies (and hot!) which afforded spectacular views of Redoubt, et. al. Glad you guys enjoyed the route; I agree an outing on Bear has a wild feel, but even better, wild huckleberries!

"We simply lived in the mountains for 3 days;" heck yeah, nice TR.

tangent: best to approach N Central Rib via Triumph pass or from NE ridge notch? anybody know? sounds from above like T. Pass is sucky... thanks in advance.

thanks Squid! Just the kind of stuff I'm looking for, even if it turns out gay. Muscle cramps are an unhappy condition. I'll look forward to your findings.

Yes, I believe we started left of you, but sounds like our routes intersected at the mossy corner. I wish we had Kearney's text at the time; we were running off my late and lazy handwritten notes from Beckey's 2nd edition. Sketchy info., said start was 100' E of SGC; our initial start was just R of the water streak. At any rate, your pic appears a compelling line!

thanks for the crib notes re: electrolytes. for me, long vertical day + heat + limited water = eventual hand cramps. i conclude that prob. need more salts like those you list. will check that hammer gel. drink mixes (e.g. perpetuem) require carrying a container, while i prefer a bladder--not conducive to mixing. sugar hinders endurance performance? don't you need both simple and complex carbs for enduro? i should take the time to research this stuff...

great flick. i had a powergel burst too. messy. does that hammer stuff have electrolytes? it seems i need more of those on long days...

down cascadian, hit ingalls, you hang a right, up hill for a little while (ymmv, depending on how much you wander r or l after dumping outta the couliour), then an obvious fork L at a sign, to Long's. another question: is it Long pass or Long's pass? variously signed and shown on maps, i wonder if it's a person Long, or Long pass as in a long-ish feature? historians? peru, your post above makes me laugh, knowing that you did N ridge + in good time, go tug yourself...

nice work fellas! specialed and i climbed this route a week ago wednesday--exact same car-car time, but from Teanaway side. i suppose longer distance from that side (?) offset by comparatively straightforward descent. we enjoyed the route! after some glacier/moat shenanigans, we went up a corner which had an adjacent fixed line. we stacked the rope on a ledge--did you see that? the ledge was directly above two staggered L-facing corners. from your pic, it appears we did not climb the same first rock pitch as you guys. how far left of Stuart Glacier Couliour did you start? i wonder how much the route had been climbed previous to our parties; special led a mossy corner p. 2 and sent down a rain of mung. i drew that sweet corner mid-height, and excavated some placements, which you probably noticed. ross, i too climbed too high in the corner, then traversed an undercling to the r-facing on the left, recommended fun. special has some pics from that route that he might find time to post, but we just returned from Bear Mtn last night, and generally feel like jello.

Jay - outstanding. Mike, you confuse the origin with the need. The will to overman requires the overcoming of fear, as you state. N. has some pearls. Another N. aphorism: Tourists: they climb mountains like animals, stupid and sweating; one has forgotten to tell them that there are beautiful views on the way up.

great TR and route! we used alum poons 'bout a month ago, and they were sufficient. (beta alert: don't read if you don't want it) while we generally stayed right on the ridge crest for this trip, we did not traverse the steep n-facing snow slope. but at this point (if i correctly recall), we opted for an easier scramble s-side. this is prob. a desirable way for those sketched by steep snow and/or conditions. fwiw. and gear: we brought passive stuff w/ tri-cams for larger cracks. good times in the recollection!

superb pics. right on pax

naw, we took a tour 'round Stuart parts. great day yesterday w/ the indefatigable mr. peru. that wine spires traverse looks tasty though

i gave it stars? how'd that happen? given the poster's previous pseudonym, 3 turds maybe.

nice pics. i take back what i said above, your first p. looks different.

ha ha, nice work. your description of the first pitch matches our first p., grassy groove; then better (cleaner) climbing above. we should compare notes sometime. glad you and the reticent one "enjoyed" it.

here, here! in addition to stocking the good stuff, Jim et. al. take good care post-sale as well. on numerous occasions they've quickly made things right when things break. discriminating heads and shoulders above Return Every Item, Inc.

thanks for that info., have wondered re: history. separately, having another look at that picture, I'm not convinced my previous statements are accurate. another dome in the immediate foreground of Gunn might be the one I'm thinking of. if I recall correctly, we followed Beckey's manual and it seemed about right. a v. fun day.

climbed it two years ago. as tramp said, follow the track up as best you can--i don't recall any continuous gully travel. pretty sure our route crested the ridge (and dropped into the basin) to the right of the rock dome in the far right of your pic. pretty place up there. there's a satellite peak further right of your pic that's a quick scramble, and holds some aircraft wreckage.

as of yesterday, a little snow lingered on Vesper's N-face ledges, but I'd wager you'll have relatively dry rock by the 4th. Sperry is pretty much snow-free.

nice work! the upper rock appears decent. the approach sounds taxing. looks like the brush was BW2?

do either of you leave from seattle? I have a little time off, but temporarily w/o transport. not interested in prusik though, repeated there recently. although prob. mooted by logistics or snow, my daytrip wishlist includes a.) n-s traverse of the 5 wa pass spires, and b.) backbone on d-tail. have fun on prusik if you guys go that direction.

my car's in the shop, many friends are up at squamish. i don't need a ride back. will share expenses and driving up there. with some of you headed up for roc-fest, etc., thought this worth a try. the bus take 6 hours, and while cheap (32), it's a bus. shoot me a pm. thx.

what forrest said, except maybe for first sentence. the 4th p. of centerfold is no harder than the second, though it's a crack v. face comparison. the nose at castle rock at 10d might be a benchmark contender, though the business is only like 50'.

i agree with the comments above (re: the climbing on the route), better than thin red for sure, and a good day-climb if you're up to it. suggestion: take some big gear and climb the offwidth a few pitches up, high quality thrutching, more direct and likely more aesthetic than the manky-looking corner and subsequent traverse (this is speculation--didn't climb the corner). have fun