lunger

definitely respect. route description should include the moves to surmount the head-high mound of kitty litter. photos are in the latter part of this post here g-horn NE arete on right skyline

haha. ahem. nice description. reads a little like a chipmunk's nether-emissions. very fun route. improbably moderate. some photos, including route lines, here and here and here's the upper face for aspiring adventure-climbers

Nice work, love that area. Scuttlebutt is that the W or SW ridge is the best descent--perhaps go with single-rope raps to limit hassles? I've gone down the S face 'successfully' (ended up soloing a full rope length of the SF chimney to unstick a rap--young and dumber) and don't really recommend it.

Outstanding pics and report! I wondered how the approach from that direction would go. And Agnes is a compelling looking peak. I was on Sinister a few days before, and really enjoyed the same climb you guys did--any sign of my tracks remain? Seems like the snowpack was finally consolidating and changing pretty fast. Some views of the area from the perspective of the Ptarmigan Traverse: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=21521.0 The picasa link there has more pics, including Agnes.

scenic - climbing trick peak, garibaldi provincial park alpine - pete h on recent ptarmigan ridge mt rainier excursion cragging - lele on e buttress middle cathedral, el cap background skiing - dr s on nf shuksan, price lake backdrop humor - a reluctant ratweasel supermodel

Please advise, couldn't get through every post to see the expiry--is it too late to enter? I would like to upload some photos tomorrow (7/15).

You've prob already seen a second report here: http://forestmcbrian.com/?p=391 And I returned yesterday from the traverse and it is still lots of snow, much of it yet in the process of consolidating--more like May conditions. Good skiing.

Great pics, Dan!! This was a fantastic climb. Thanks for writing up our trip--I also put up some pics over here: http://skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=252 Unfortunately didn't get many skiing pics.

no bolt nazi here, but i tend to agree with the emissions of the rodent-arse. the climb is excellent in its current state. but not a danger route (based on my memories of the climb, at least). that said, i respect the FAs decision. and this is one hypocrite that'd probably enjoy rapping after the first 5, as also agree that the pitches above are not particularly aesthetic. is this (bolted, chained rap anchors) the first step toward D-tail as a cragging destination? heckuva crag--could see gobs of nice 5-8 pitch lines over on that NE buttress...

love that Centerfold--sustained, varied, challenging, fun--thanks for the pics!

all good suggestions. i'd add the W ridge of Thomson, mostly running, with a few pitches of rock. straight from the first Snoq Pass exit. The Red/Lundin/Mt Snoq (or vice-versa) traverse is an entertaining romp too.

Edited to let the record correctly reflect that indeed there is a register up there, according to my pardner.

That was a ton o'fun, Dan. Thanks for the pics. I posted a few on a TR over on Sky's site too. http://skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118

nice trip, K. looks like you caught good ski conditions.

Dan: great descriptive efforts for an indescribably great (I also lack the words) trip! a few of my pics. N side of the big dog: Tony, w/ Dan in distance: Casey's first turns from c. 13K, below the icy 'schrund: More skiing. The first is Tony perched above the shield with 5K of exposure to the Carbon Glacier below: few more: Liberty Ridge pics

great send. really enjoyed the writing in that last paragraph.

bowline on a bight (i recall john long called it the "atomic clip"?) is quick, simple and has worked well for me for years. the 'ears' are adjustable to equalize toward direction of pull, but not self-equalizing by design. dress properly, as always. the knot.

right on, Dan, dig that line. We noticed it looked nicely skiable when up there last weekend to climb NE Buttress on Colchuck. Should've brought skis too. and thanks telemarker, I was trying to remember the name of that feature...hard to believe someone would BASE off that thing!

awesome.

fwiw, if you are interested in any of this stuff, a testimonial: i bought from this guy and rec'd the goods next day. v. efficient.

Curious--what US size are your feet? I am in the market for a pair, but forget what Euro size I wear in those stretchy slipper-lasted types...

yes, informative thread, thanks. curious what headlamps you guys use for night climbing? I've found mine barely adequate, looking for a vetted upgrade. any ideas appreciated.

4 minutes I don't regret. Looks like you caught it in fine shape, very nice.

good call Noah, that climb is longer and more difficult than the NW Face of SEWS, has interesting and aesthetic climbing, and in a more alpine setting than some others listed. Not to disparage the list, I think it's a good one. so, propose 25. Big Kangaroo South Face Right (Kearney-Thomas) .11-

That's my favorite song. I always ask them to turn it up in the weight room, it really pisses me off.