lunger

right on fellas, cool line! and great shots.

Hey Pax! Yeah, that peak is pleasing to the eye. We had some gear, and encountered some spicy sections where we talked about it, but never did bust out the rope on the ascent. The cruxes were mercifully short. We belayed the ski off the summit to stomp on what appeared a big nasty slab. Fortunately, we were able to downclimb the dicy sections so didn't have to rap.

Casey had other obligations, unfortunately, & had to bail. haha. Posted over there to hopefully get some news re: whether this had been climbed or skied before. Also the east face is a fun and accessible climb w/ or w/o skis. Seems the North Face gets all the attention, but with this so close to the road, who knows...

Trip: Greybeard Peak - East Face Date: 5/16/2009 Trip Report: Dan Helmstadter and I climbed and skied the East Face of Greybeard (on maps appears as eastern terminus of Ragged ridge just E of Easy Pass, elevation 7965’) on Saturday. I haven't seen any record of this being climbed or skied; would be curious to hear if any of you have heard tales. The climb alone as a moderate alpine objective is worthy and recommended; its proximity to the road makes it that much more appealing. A few weeks ago, somebody had posted a shot of this face, unnamed, on a report from Cutthroat (I think)—looked intriguingly possible. Then last week a couple buddies and I were on Mt Hardy and noticed the east face looking pretty fat—perhaps probable. Greybeard East and North Faces: The obligatory Scurlock photo: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/53643445 On Friday evening I drove up towards Swamp Creek and saw that the face had melted out some from a week ago, but still appeared relatively do-able. What the heck, give it a try and if it’s not good, bail or descend some other aspect (the southwest is more mellow)… evening east face We started climbing from 6100’ at around 3:30am after a solid freeze, and availed ourselves of a NE-facing couloir to gain a rib and ultimately the east face proper. Runnels in the couloir initially made for ready sticks with axes and crampons, but abruptly morphed into chunder-wonder variability. The climbing on the ribs and faces above was often steep and entertaining; I recall at one point left hand to rock hold, right hand to axe in snice, left foot post-holed, and right foot kicked into ice—what was next was a guess. Route-finding slowed us down a bit, as did two crampon failures for Dan, which he handily repaired. Luckily, clouds kept the sun at bay, urging us upward. above the couloir difficulties on the face last stretch to summit The views from the summit didn’t disappoint. Goode et al Dan and Black Peak sunlit Mt Logan, Arriva foreground Jack Mtn S Face w/ lenticular and Crater Peak The skiing was classic “spring variable”. We had gained the summit at a bit before 8, and as it had been cloudy all morning, waited for the sun to come out and work some magic on the icy patina found on most of the snow we had climbed. When the sun finally came out full-force at 11 a.m., it was forceful, and our worry turned from too crusty to too soft. For the most part we enjoyed soft-snow turns on the face. up at summit turns We had to down-climb a couple sections due to either grave avy conditions or too-rocky chocolate-chip sections. We finally jumped a little step to finish the c. 1700'face, and skied a ridge feature to my bivy site at 6100’, making for a c. 1900’ run. link1 link2 Perhaps this face will come into better shape (i.e., ski-able in full) in future years after a more robust snowfall for this area. Taken later that afternoon with Rainier in hand: route up in red, down in green edit: guess I used the wrong "shortcut" for showing images. will try to fix later...if any of you mods have helpful suggestions...

DB, here's some beta. Bring lots of small gear. Might want pins too. The climbing is on really good, somewhat compact granite (as you can gather). The first pitch (or somewhere down low) has the psych crux, you climb above your last little piece enough to warrant concern, as you must traverse left (not too high like Gratz) around a bulge/arete, making use of secure-to-some knobs. but usually the .10 cruxes are short, with lots of .9 climbing. this from my creaky memory, so caveat emptor--and you paid nothing. 5 pitches of awesome followed by rambly shite, I imagine like the upper reaches of serpentine (have not climbed), no fin finisher like backbone. still, a fun outing. get on the wall early (of course)--we heard some little bullets whizzing by as the temps rose, but the big overhang above seems to spit them well clear of you. have fun, and report back! by the way hello Ivan, that was a hell of party--didn't know you got sick later.

Nice work! I remember finishing up that thing after the Grand years ago, and thinking 'twas kinda spicy for a bolt-clipping finish--thanks for removing some of the abundant loose rock. Particularly memorable was during that harder stretch of relatively steep face climbing well above a bolt on p. 2, happened upon 2 falcons perched, just blinking at me. (There were no falcons expected at the time, no closure, etc.) The only way to go was between them, but they peeled off when i drew within 5 feet of 'em. Pretty cool but a bit concerning--if they had wanted to mess with me, would've been a long ride...

Nice pics! yesterday morning Casey and I skied the Slot and then the Phantom, and it was ALL GOOD. the Slot had the deepest and lightest pow i've ever seen in it. and the Phantom, as you depict above, was also deeee-luxe. pretty sure it was your tracks we saw. back to work by 11a; damn i love Seattle.

S O L D

holy crap the cheese crowd is slacking "the one having the most fun" sunk to the lowest low, pls put me outta my misery

ripper report, well written--captured the essence of alpine elation.

I've got an offer for the bindings that's > $200, but would rather sell the whole package together. Somebody should rock this do-it-all setup.

right on dan, nice report and looks like some fun skiing.

Contact me via PM. Gear for sale: Atomic Kailas backcountry skis, 174cm, 88mm underfoot (bought new 2007) Dynafit Classic bindings (purchased new 2006) BD Ascension skins (purchased new 2006), cut for above skis. Whole package = $400. Buyer pays shipping, if any--I can meet folks that live in Seattle area. Price is a good deal; if they don't sell, will be my backup rig and/or spare binding parts. Reason for replacement: finally caved in and bought boots that don't molest my feet, and in shopping process was lured by a seductive gypsy into a whole new setup. General condition: The skis have lots of life left, and have been freshly tuned. The bindings are also in good shape, and probably worth >$200 on their own. The bindings are mounted for a Garmont Megaride 28.5 boot, which I believe is 318mm in length. If your boot doesn't fit, usually you can remount by simply moving the toe-piece. The skins still stick well, and the middle strip still covering the glue can be removed once you reach the limits of the currently exposed glue. Mini-review, for what it's worth: The Kailas skis are awesome. I've been surprised that at 174cm, these skied very well for my 175ish pounds + 10-40 lbs on the back. Lightweight, quick turning, stable, good edging power in firm conditions, and float well for their size. More here: http://www.telemarkski.com/html/rvw_atomic_kailas.html Dynafit bindings = the standard. BD Ascension skins reputedly have the best glue. If you don't like the clipfix, you can retro fit the tail attachment to your preference. In sum, this setup has seen some fun, but holds more in store for whoever picks these up. Kailas topsheets also visible(?) here, in the BYS couloir off NF of Shuksan: bases - typical nicks and scratches You know they're good skis when they make a hack appear a passable skier: Dynafit Classic bindings BD Ascension skins Combo got my decrepit booty up here (Mt. Logan):

right on Dan, nice report. looks spicy. way to keep stacking up adventures.

as advertised and promptly shipped. thanks.

yep, as advertised and promptly shipped. thanks.

go tell somebody who cares, rat "firs", "alpine chicken syndrome", ha! congrats, looks kick-ass

In deed.

holy shite G after more info...

more like 10a doofus would also like to hear the name from the source. definitely more difficult than sloe children. if S.C. is 10d, then 11- seems reasonable.

HANSEL - so hot right now great times, thanks to all that provided entertainment, visual and gustatory. great beer and stories too--the old video was cool, funny how some things have changed and some have stayed the same...

i will be there and drink for 3. will bring 1, possibly more. Enchants through hike/run def. appeals if weather marginal. extra purty up there this time of year. porter, if there's time i might put in a few pics...

also agree. for those that complain re: ease/speed of placement: consider them a lightweight alternative to cams to use at belay anchors. and of course, there's the occasional pocket or irregular/flared crack that ONLY a tri-cam can secure. $.02. also curious to hear about these smaller ones. likely nuts fit the bill in those sizes...

super cool--great report. sounds and looks like stellar climbing. Prusik granite, daaaaamnnnn!

humorous report with good shots of the Snoqualmie Pickets. proud puppy--i laughed at the triple rations title...my dog echoes that sentiment.