lunger

right on, Dan, dig that line. We noticed it looked nicely skiable when up there last weekend to climb NE Buttress on Colchuck. Should've brought skis too. and thanks telemarker, I was trying to remember the name of that feature...hard to believe someone would BASE off that thing!

awesome.

fwiw, if you are interested in any of this stuff, a testimonial: i bought from this guy and rec'd the goods next day. v. efficient.

Curious--what US size are your feet? I am in the market for a pair, but forget what Euro size I wear in those stretchy slipper-lasted types...

yes, informative thread, thanks. curious what headlamps you guys use for night climbing? I've found mine barely adequate, looking for a vetted upgrade. any ideas appreciated.

4 minutes I don't regret. Looks like you caught it in fine shape, very nice.

good call Noah, that climb is longer and more difficult than the NW Face of SEWS, has interesting and aesthetic climbing, and in a more alpine setting than some others listed. Not to disparage the list, I think it's a good one. so, propose 25. Big Kangaroo South Face Right (Kearney-Thomas) .11-

That's my favorite song. I always ask them to turn it up in the weight room, it really pisses me off.

Trip: enchantments hike - south face prusik climb - beckey-davis Date: 10/10/2009 Trip Report: Sky persuaded me to take a day off work to climb something S-facing, hoping for sun. We left a cold Stuart lake trailhead at around 430a, & arrived at the base of Prusik under still-cloudy skies and snowflakes. So, waited/shivered for over 3 hours until the slowly teasing sun warmed the rock. We actually had intended to climb Solid Gold, which appears stellar, but the waning day and cold temps persuaded us to motor up something more modest. The route features good rock and climbing, and we finished up a Libra-esque splitter thin-hands crack that directly hits the summit. A few pics of a ripper day. few more pics Gear Notes: too much, turns out. Approach Notes: approached via everybody's favorite Asgard Pass, toured out via Snow Lakes. some snow and ice on the ever-treacherous pass...

good one 'staafl. pms, you called me out--i've not climbed any other alpine rock in the Cascades this year. did enjoy an opposite experience (clean rock, chill approach, civil company) on Whitney and Russell in July, but mostly just worked this summer. even though the climbing could've been better, it's a beautiful area, and an enjoyable weekend jaunt. more pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ewehrly/2009_09_12RoostNEFace?feat=directlink

given rolf's woefully inadequate TR, I will try to up the hype quotient. yeah, his backberry wasn't working, so we couldn't tweet the minutiae of our epic ascent, including helmet-cam footage of our bm's. first, this is my favorite alpine rock climb in the Cascades all year. The route we did on the NE Face of The Roost, "Fowl Play", is likely an FA because there's no one else stupid enough to try it. However, we were enticed by pics (e.g., Scurlock) that make it an attractive nuisance: And here's a shot I took after our ascent, route follows approx. left-hand skyline: Looking up at the climb in the wee hours, after a scenic and supercool bivy above the col between the ROost and Glee: pitch 2: pitch 4, brushy galore: nice views anyway: pitch 8 (crux) required terror control; impressive lead by ratweasel. looking down at our "climbing" route from top p. 9, haha: the route features overhanging tree pulling, the occasional dirt-mantling and less occasional gear, and even some steep fun face-climbing protected by excavated cracks. pure glee. as noted, should clean up nicely with more traffic--go get it!

will be curious to hear what you find. as i recall, Beckey used "evil" in his description of the face...

of course, poor word choice, i wasn't there, so "the rockfall was likely..." was just trying to clarify that if there were rockfall or trundling, it would need to be that peak, and NOT Dragontail. and home-whinger did say he saw two guys on a face...

the trundling was likely off a route on Enchantment Peak, which does abut the Aasgard trail...

all due respect kyle, but reading ivan's gonzo mtnrng lit, i doubt anybody has an "identical experience" to his unique prism ride...

good work--entertaining write-up. failing on a rock-star pose, ha.

nice tr, complete w/ non-sequitur pics. That 3rd pitch does look cool. love the kitty litter 'round there, odious & odiferous. Ross and I climbed a route between El Gato and Stellar Eclipse that was so good, we gave it 2 names: Sphincter-the-Shits (sounds like the latter route we sought and missed) and Menage a Choss--the latter more acceptable for public consumption. thanks for the alt descent info., Off, sounds nicer than that gully.

b. midweek, several times, i've had 100% luck getting permits via the lottery at the Leavenworth ranger station when it opens. c. you will want crampons and axe for Sherpa descent that time of year. as indicated above, might have to rap a considerable 'schrund.

good work and pics of that excellent rock--that route forces you into some sorta zone, eh?

cool climb! and i like the descriptive language in the write-up. the picture of Jens is hilarious, I've seen that wild-eyed look in pardners before. Pete and I talked about going after that years ago, but time and gumption never quite intersected...way to get after it. strong work fellas.

cool vid perspective dan, looks like a fun ski. quickens my rot at the computer screen.

Great TR! Classic NW climbing.

good eyes--the first 1/3 took us about 1/2 the time, methodical and mildly ponderous mixed climbing. we took about 4.5 hours total, including crampon field repair. so i'd estimate that passing that last noticeable constriction (that i think you reference) took us nearly to the 2 hour mark. would've taken longer if we'd roped up, which we were on the verge of doing. (cbcbd -- thanks for the info.)

Ripper!

Nice work you guys, sounds like "fun." Too bad you've not built that tram yet. Looks like you had some pretty good ski conditions up high. I've wanted to climb Gardner for years, looks like a cool place and a high peak w/ unique views into the Cascades.