Off_White

[video:youtube] I thought this was worth reviving the thread.

Nah, he's been up all night.

You mean Netanyahu isn't a liar?

Hey FW, here's your Solyndra, put into perspective by Krugman: (I lifted the whole text from NYT and put it here so no one has to potentially deal with their paywall)

There are a lot of ways to do this, here's what I'm using. I adopted it from Dan McDevitt, a pretty darn safety conscious individual with decades of experience, and he seems to think its the safest way to climb, safer than a belayer even. Rope set up: single line clipped to the top of the anchor. I use a length of static rope, no stretch involved. Two devices: Top one is a Microcender (made by petzl now, used to be by rock exotica I think) and the bottom is a handle less ascender, like the Petzl Basic or a Camp Solo . Here's a picture of the basic set up: The Microcender clips to your belay/rappel look with a locking biner. The DMM Belaymaster has a clip dohickey that prevents cross loading. There is a loop of 9/16 webbing through the clip in of the Microcender that is connected to a chest harness (what I'm using), or just a pair of slings over your shoulder (what Dan uses). The only purpose of this shoulder rig is to hold the Microcender upright, its not load bearing and it doesn't prevent the Microcender from grabbing. Here's a picture showing the back up ascender, Dan is cleverly pointing out where the rope goes, again attached with a locking biner. The top device grabs with a notched cam, similar to an old Gibbs type ascender. The bottom device grips with teeth, lik an old Jumar. I like that there are two different types of mechanism. In use, just coil up the bottom end of the rope or clip some weight to it to hold it in place. As you climb, both devices smoothly slide up the rope, and with the shoulder rig the Microcender (primary device) grabs as soon as you weight it, there's no slack in the system. It doesn't work well to go up and down a 10' section and work it into submission, but that's not really what I use it for. Descending, I clip in to the anchor with my daisy. Then the lower device comes off. Pulling up on the anchor to unweight the Microcender, I lift the cam and lower down back onto the daisy. Microcender comes off, Gri Gri goes on for easy peasy single rope rappel. Just one solution that works for me and I feel comfortable with. Your method may differ and be just as good.

I'm just teasing you Colin, you've done great with the new handle and I've got no complaints, I just think you should know better than responding to Rob.

Colin Colin Colin, you'll never make the grade as a reticent hardman until you figure out that less is more. The real hard folks don't spray much and never seem to be all that impressed with their bad selves.

I'm with you guys on that, and I've been around the block enough to know my ability to climb a project I've worked out the choreography for doesn't mean I really climb that grade out in the real world. It is sure fun though to have put all the pieces together and be able to lead smoothly through sections that once kicked your ass.

You should lose the misspelling of climbing with a y that you're doing wherever the word crops up on the site.

He's still around here too, different name and more subdued. I suppose getting grief from Hank Caylor and Jack Roberts constitutes moving up in the world.

It's just too bad he looks so sketched... I assume you're being sarcastic, he sort of made it look like it should be downrated to 5.8. That feet cutting loose at the end was pure theater, he's obviously got strength to burn, even at the lip.

Oooh, way to start a rumor Sherri!

CPB does avoid copyright issues though, I've gotta give him that.

I'm just wondering if I'm going to be able to buy a pair to Grandstones at Target now...

Its kind of amazing, given the number of times he's done that route, that he still uses tick marks for the jams. Awful soundtrack.

I thought that too. Perhaps Crusher has had his naming skills expand due to his long time residence in the US...

That new crag near Rainier looks pretty damn great, though I've only seen pictures - missed the trip out there that the local crew made back in August.

Of course, its not just PA. Here's an article from High Country News regarding the issue in Wyoming. HCN Article They've got a lot more on the issue on their website. Unlike oil fracking, its not just water they're pumping down there, they don't even want to tell you everything involved.

I agree Sobo, and the odd thing is that a 98' drop is a pretty big deal and worthy of respect, even if its not the current record. Why try the hype and spin when the truth is nothing to be ashamed of?

I can attest to the fact that Matt makes awesome eggnog, glad you got a little love from The Splendid Table.

You haven't actually met Fairweather, have you? He may not be Mr. 5.13, but "big fat gut" doesn't apply.

Well, points to you and Bill for stepping up in Plaidman's defense. I doubt that's the real Chongo posting up, he's too bitter and coherent.

Here's a link to a Supertopo Thread that posted up Dale Bard's 1978 article "Pumping Cracks" from the Great Pacific Ironworks catalog. This is a great crack climbing 101 education. Pumping Cracks

Yeah yeah, we happy few and all that. Kenneth does love him some Shakespeare, but that was a great film. Victors do try and write the history, don't they? Mission accomplished.

Oh, right, that. Grandstones didn't fit me right, but I'm eager to try the Anasazi hightop. Five Ten shoes usually suit me, but this year's Evolv Pontas Lace has made me a believer so I'm curious to see their new product.