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Everything posted by Off_White
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	It's possible I have the number wrong. I had thought that peak was Wahpenayo when I took the photo, but looking in Brown Beckey (tan pebbly surface edition) last night, he remarks on a peak with a number like that south or southwest of Lane, in the description of Lane Peak. It's off the main line of the Tattosh crest, you'd get to it by going over the Lane-Denman saddle and down the other side. The guide mentions some "interesting snow ridges" but says nothing about the obvious gully.
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	They're just training workers for a growth industry.
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	Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper Date: 5/4/2008 Trip Report: Not feeling all that excited about miles of snowed over road plodding to get to my usual season opener on Mt Washington in the Olympics, I cast about for an alternative solo outing and recalled some TR's here for Lane Peak. I did my research and decided to go look at The Zipper. I hemmed and hawed, contemplating bringing my snowboard, some slowshoes, poles, but decided to stay simple and light for a first foray into an unfamiliar spot. In retrospect, poles would have been great, snowshoes might have been handy, and some sliding device could have been entertaining as well, but I appreciated the light pack and had a great day. Here's an overview of the north side of Lane. The three prominent couloirs, left to right, are Lovers Lane, The Zipper (partially hidden and slanting to the left), and The Fly. It was pretty clear that they all were really well filled in. Here's a detail of Lovers Lane and The Zipper taken from the Narada Falls lot, where you can actually see into The Zipper. I left the car at Narada Falls and headed up the slope to intersect the road to Reflection Lakes. The size of the avi debris all over the slope made me a little leery, but all became clear when I popped over onto the road: they have plowed the road down to bare pavement and that was the source of the debris. I walked down the asphalt until it was time to pop over the edge and descend to the creek. With the road not scheduled to open until May 24th, a smart person might park where the Reflection Lakes road leaves the Paradise road and ride a bike. The snow was not as consolidated as I'd hoped, mostly shin deep postholing. At the bottom of the hill I turned right and headed towards the base of the route. As I started up the cone towards the gullies the snow got deeper, more like knee deep, I'd been contemplating doing Lovers Lane instead, since the rock steps on other trip reports were clearly filled in, but the soft snow nixed that idea and I continued around the corner, wallowing away towards The Zipper. It was discouraging that the snow was not firming up as the angle increased. There was a light crust, it had clearly frozen the night before, but it wasn't enough to support anyone. I began to encounter moments of crotch deep despair and engaged in a little internal dialogue. "This sucks, but I'll get to that next chunk of debris." "This sucks, but I'll get around that corner to get a look." "This sucks, but I need the workout." Distracting the Couch Potato with this line of bargaining banter I slowly made my way up the couloir. As you can see, the gully was full and the climbing casual, if laborious. As I got to the upper third, a crust developed that would support me with care, if I took pains not to punch through it. This eased things along until I popped out into the sun at the notch. I relaxed, ate a little, scoped out the views, dried out a sock (Sportiva Trangos are not very waterproof), and waited for the party of five who'd started up the couloir behind me. My crafty plan was to let someone else break trail to the summit. Met the nice party of Mountaineers from Olympia, and naturally had some social overlap with them, though we hadn't met before. They headed up directly towards the summit with a looming rockband, eschewing the traverse across the slushy slope to the summer south gully summit route. The strong sun had softened the snow considerably, and any number of wet snow slides were beginning. I followed the fresh steps up the steep slope, but as a few moats began to appear and it looked like a bottleneck would develop at the rock step, I veered left onto a rock rib and scrambled up some 4th class loose rock to the top of the false summit. From there it was a sweet walk along a snow rib and some more sketchy steep glop, then the summit proper. My old friend and partner on the summit Peak 5919 to the south has an interesting line on it Did I mention wet slides? I plunge stepped down the gushy stuff and encountered the group who was retreating from their nasty rock step (looked sketchy to me when I looked down it) and they traversed over to follow my descent line up to the top. Bidding them farewell, a combination of sitting glissades and sloggy marching led me down to the valley. Where other reports remarked on cliffy zones and bushwacking, I encountered a snow covered BW-0 route with just a little steep snow. I wrapped up with a march back up stream and back up to the road. Walking back along the road I encountered a curious older couple who really wanted to share their excitement about rolling snow balls down the slope below the railing. This was all very charming until the gentleman expressed his wish to have a tire to roll down the hill. Anyway, it was a great day out in the mountains. The snow will only consolidate over the coming weeks, and there's ample coverage to keep this side of Lane Peak appealing for awhile. Gear Notes: Axe Crampons (didn't need 'em this time) Should've brought poles with snow baskets Approach Notes: Parked at Narada falls, went up slope to road, walked on freshly cleared road until road bends to the left. Go over the side, descend to creek, walk down creek valley until below peak.
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	What, are you just trolling for some love and affection? Rudy's just a gang of one, pay him no mind, I like you just the way you are.
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	Heh. You should have checked out the Spring Picnic.
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				Pictures requested: East Butt SEWS and Mt. Index
Off_White replied to Alpinfox's topic in Climber's Board
Have you got the negative Joe? It can be scanned and made pretty high resolution. That does have the makings of a good beta shot for a book. - 
	I think you're stretching it.
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				Pictures requested: East Butt SEWS and Mt. Index
Off_White replied to Alpinfox's topic in Climber's Board
it takes a sharp photographic skill-set like joshk's in order to render me palatable to the naked eye! better that than he should render you palatable to the eye, naked. - 
	Riverside, as in California? It's the hot end of LA county, that's for sure. Rubidoux is right there, it'll offer boulder problems sure to give you callouses and polish up your dime edge skills. Plenty of good rock not too far away at Josh and Tahquitz/Suicide. You could hit up Will Strickland, he's in that neck of the woods these days and might be able to help you with the housing question.
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	What Pax, was this the pre-show stoke bump? Nice to see some of these on the screen last night at the picnic, definitely had me daydreaming about the Sierra.
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	So this guy was totally, uhm, "gorked" on shrooms, at one with the universe, when a sudden enlightenment overwhelms him, his moment of clarity when the answer to all the world's ills came to him with devastating force. He was stunned at how simple the solution was, so he wrote it down to be sure he could bring it back from the depths of his ecstatic orbit. The next morning he looked at his piece of paper, which simply said , "say please"
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	Report from a friend who went on 4/21 said road was closed by snow around 2400' and there were 5' (yes, five feet) of snow at the lower trailhead. Only the top of the signboard was showing there.
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	That was me that shunted it down here, seemed like the direction it was headed, and likely the spirit in which it was started. My apologies if I acted precipitously. A serious eating disorder thread in the fitness forum is not a bad idea, I've known several climbers with real issues around food.
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	Kurt, I think it's time for a ski descent of Chain Reaction.
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				best of cc.com [TR] I Love the Desert - 4/28/2008
Off_White replied to joepuryear's topic in The rest of the US and International.
I saw this one over on Supertopo and was hoping we'd get our own copy. Truly delicious TR with fantasy projects for all levels of climbers. Six stars indeed. - 
	Wow Pete, that's neat!
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	Well, their vote for Obama coupled with their house will probably still do more for the environment than your vote for McCain coupled with your bicycle.
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	Dude, middle management doesn't do production.
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	So for instance, under that definition, the Rupal Face is moderate? Huntington in winter? To be more serious, using that criteria, Astroman belongs pretty high on the list.
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				what to climb this weekend at Tahquitz/Suicide CA
Off_White replied to bwrts's topic in Climber's Board
Yeah, inquiring minds want to know. Sorry, I saw this too late to put in my 2 cents. Are you likely to be returning? Between this and Leviathan Dome, you seem to be ranging far afield from the local sandbox, whats up? - 
	Anyone from Olympia interested in carpooling?
 
