Off_White

Uhm, because you don't climb?

Nice pics, its good to see that area again. I almost bought property at the mouth of Lundy canyon long ago. I still love that eastern scarp, but it would've been too cold & lonely in the long run. Looks like maybe you forgot the corkscrew?

I just got to spend a week climbing in The Valley with my darling baby boy. Here's a shot on top of Lembert in Tuoloumne on the way home.

Nah, these days (by his own admission) Jim uses tape, and to quote Dick Cilley, "Tape is aid." Men in the prior generation have always been manlier, I believe Plato has a rant about the softness of the younger generation. Nonetheless, I bet Lynn Hill could've waxed Plato's ass. Hell, even I was harder in the last generation: I was just down in the Valley repeating some old moderate classics and happily plugging cams into cracks, glad that I wasn't fiddling with a small rack of nuts like when I'd last led those routes 30 odd years ago. Back then I believe I was glad I didn't have a small rack of pins.

Oh, now that's a damn shame. Understandable though I suppose, last Memorial Day Weekend we wound up farther along that road than ever before and wound up with a shit heap of a site, spent a solid half hour in the morning picking up other people's debris, beer cans, etc.

For those in the Olympia area, the Wednesday climbing gig in Tenino (as found in the Events forum) is a good test drive venue. Granted, you've pretty much got to be able to scrape up easy 5.10 to have fun, but it's a low key group atmosphere and a chance to see others in action with no real commitment. A number of folks have paired up for trips elsewhere after meeting here, but no marriages yet, not even any tawdry affairs unless it's Doug's ever deepening fondness for my dog.

start here, then work your way up.

Is being all polite 'n shit on the Taco chafing your unruly bits?

I mostly bivy with a Vanagon, so bear that in mind. I've camped somewhere near the outlet end, on some penninsula. I can't recall if it was a real campground or not, I don't recall paying, but it was late in the season a good decade ago. There's an okay free forest service land bivy across the street from Goose Egg, next to where a dirt road heads south off the pavement. Decent water from the spring on the far side of the road. Further down canyon, there's a dirt road off the highway to the south, while you're on the stretch of road between bridges and on the south bank of the river. Take that road up hill, stay right at the intersection, and it will drop back down to the river. Numerous free bivy sites here. Higher up, you can drive up the road towards Lava Point, ample free forest service bivy locations there too. Plenty of FS campgrounds in the canyon too, but I hates to pay, and they're nothing special. Lots and lots of great climbing. The Bend is a fine choice for crack stuff in the up to 5.10 range, though there are wonderful routes at pretty much every crag in the canyon. If its hot, consider Wildcat Wall higher up, but I don't think there's much in terms of a low key warm up route. I always see snakes going to that crag. Ride The Lightning on Goose Egg is a good introduction to the rock - not at all a sport route despite the presence of bolts. It's a great adventure route, has it's share of suspect rock and demands a certain delicacy, absolutely don't get on it if someone is above you on the route. Bring tennies for the walk off. Have fun, you'll love it.

I don't believe there was anything random about that you grudge packer.

Pie pretty much always trumps cake.

commando

I'll second this recommendation. Come to think of it, Ivan sort of reminds me of Half Cocked Jack Shaftoe... now this sounds cool! but according to wikipedia, i must be a bizarro-world jack shaftoe as i imagine i'm pretty much the exact opposite of an "illiterate adventurer of great resourcefulness and charisma." Oh, and I don't mean to suggest you've only half a winkie due to an unfortunate attempt to cure the French Pox with a branding iron either, just that you have a reckless slapdash insouciance that could make you a viable successor to the King of the Vagabonds.

Woah, Icegirl surfaces from the depths! PMR's a good outfit

Huh, some uptight dingleberry on a bike yelled at me this morning for running a few red lights in my pickup while on the way to work. I just smiled and waved. I thought it was pretty funny.

I'll second this recommendation. Come to think of it, Ivan sort of reminds me of Half Cocked Jack Shaftoe...

After five years, the gear has been replaced. I'd guess the whole point would be causing the guy trouble or following the thread back to whoever deserves the grilling.

I don't get the impression that our Pindude is the vigilante sort, but Steve should definitely pursue some legal action. The story smells funny, but the time lag is a little bizarre. I'd say get contact info from the craigslist poster and have a conversation with local law enforcement regarding how to proceed. Intimidation and recovery is an option, but better to bring big friends rather than a baseball bat, I'm sure a Seattle area posse could be assembled. What's Dane up to? Assaulting a scummy thief is still assault though, unless you catch them in your house.

That view down the falls is a great shot, was that Yosemite Falls? Thanks for the pics. You got around to some nice perches. Was this last week? We probably overlapped, did you enjoy some sweet afternoon thunderstorm activity? Edit: ahh, I see the shot down the falls is Nevada Falls, splendid perspective. I bet more than one child passerby got a lecture from the parental units when they spied your antics.

Laid-back style of belaying?!? Is he using the "Hollywood" belay method? I got yer laid back stylee...

You mean that one of MisterE as a happy grubby Camp 4 dirt child?

If tattoos just lasted a year or two, that would be alright, but there's no image that I want to wear for the rest of my life, even though that's represented by a diminishing number. Possibly the best one I ever saw in person was my buddy Lloyd's dad: when he was a little twisted in his shop he'd show you the two propellers, one on each ass cheek, with the phrase "twin screws" inscribed above. As an old submariner, he had lots of tattoos of unknown origin.

I'll use that phrase with an exasperated rasp, and it loosely translates as "fuck me I'm weak." It means I'm giving up. I don't seem to use "tension" much anymore, but still rely on "up rope" (usually shortened to "rope") to mean "pay attention, I've got three feet of slack and that's scary." "Take up the slack" should always be avoided as a phrase, since "slack" means "pay attention, you're holding me too tight and that's scary." When you can hear each other well, lots of variation on the nomenclature works well, but when you get far apart its good to have the classic call and response to fall back on. Farther apart still, the series of rope tugs (I must be more premature than Matt, it only takes 3 tugs with me) is the ticket, with the added implication that one should avoid falling just in case its a simul situation. In that sport situation where the leader has topped out, I never take the leader off belay until we've confirmed that they're going to rap rather than lower, and I make sure to state "okay, you're off belay" when I disconnect just to make sure they're aware of the situation. If they're just untying to thread the rope and plan to lower, I just leave them on.

For a consummate douche, you're a pretty good man Alpinfox. What is the best route at x38? I haven't been there either.