Off_White

commando

I'll second this recommendation. Come to think of it, Ivan sort of reminds me of Half Cocked Jack Shaftoe... now this sounds cool! but according to wikipedia, i must be a bizarro-world jack shaftoe as i imagine i'm pretty much the exact opposite of an "illiterate adventurer of great resourcefulness and charisma." Oh, and I don't mean to suggest you've only half a winkie due to an unfortunate attempt to cure the French Pox with a branding iron either, just that you have a reckless slapdash insouciance that could make you a viable successor to the King of the Vagabonds.

Woah, Icegirl surfaces from the depths! PMR's a good outfit

Huh, some uptight dingleberry on a bike yelled at me this morning for running a few red lights in my pickup while on the way to work. I just smiled and waved. I thought it was pretty funny.

I'll second this recommendation. Come to think of it, Ivan sort of reminds me of Half Cocked Jack Shaftoe...

That view down the falls is a great shot, was that Yosemite Falls? Thanks for the pics. You got around to some nice perches. Was this last week? We probably overlapped, did you enjoy some sweet afternoon thunderstorm activity? Edit: ahh, I see the shot down the falls is Nevada Falls, splendid perspective. I bet more than one child passerby got a lecture from the parental units when they spied your antics.

Laid-back style of belaying?!? Is he using the "Hollywood" belay method? I got yer laid back stylee...

You mean that one of MisterE as a happy grubby Camp 4 dirt child?

If tattoos just lasted a year or two, that would be alright, but there's no image that I want to wear for the rest of my life, even though that's represented by a diminishing number. Possibly the best one I ever saw in person was my buddy Lloyd's dad: when he was a little twisted in his shop he'd show you the two propellers, one on each ass cheek, with the phrase "twin screws" inscribed above. As an old submariner, he had lots of tattoos of unknown origin.

I'll use that phrase with an exasperated rasp, and it loosely translates as "fuck me I'm weak." It means I'm giving up. I don't seem to use "tension" much anymore, but still rely on "up rope" (usually shortened to "rope") to mean "pay attention, I've got three feet of slack and that's scary." "Take up the slack" should always be avoided as a phrase, since "slack" means "pay attention, you're holding me too tight and that's scary." When you can hear each other well, lots of variation on the nomenclature works well, but when you get far apart its good to have the classic call and response to fall back on. Farther apart still, the series of rope tugs (I must be more premature than Matt, it only takes 3 tugs with me) is the ticket, with the added implication that one should avoid falling just in case its a simul situation. In that sport situation where the leader has topped out, I never take the leader off belay until we've confirmed that they're going to rap rather than lower, and I make sure to state "okay, you're off belay" when I disconnect just to make sure they're aware of the situation. If they're just untying to thread the rope and plan to lower, I just leave them on.

For a consummate douche, you're a pretty good man Alpinfox. What is the best route at x38? I haven't been there either.

Yup, that one set the standard for online partner meltdown, and a high bar it is

Yep, it's a good one, c'mon out. Riddler is easier than Futility Bill if you ask me, but it's been a few years since I've made a successful bid on either so perhaps

That's a great story Bill.

Its pretty sad. I was just looking at CCH's site yesterday, wondering if they'd gotten their act together. It looked like they had, but then I realized all their info was old and in no way addressed the later failure issues. Thanks for the post Rudy.

Some things are dry: Legends 5.12c Riddler 5.11c Rubber Boa 5.11c Confuscious 5.11c Shaking Hands With The Governor 5.10b (right edge of the flake is wet, but you could work with it) Virgins 5.11c (might have a wet hold on the handrail at the top) Squirt Theory 5.10d (direct finish is wet, you'd have to do the right friction finish) Calvin & Hobbes 5.10b Folks are welcome to come out, but obviously it's a limited offering

We had a fair bit of rain yesterday and the rock is pretty wet on the surface right now, but not actively dripping. It will all depend on whether the sun blazes today or not. I'll post up around 2:00 with an afternoon report.

What a great looking outing, thanks.

Oh, so it's like this season's version of Gollum on the sharp end, thanks for buying me a clue.

It's probably heavy and not very warm, but oh would you score some style points to pull this puppy out of your pack at the bivy. My favorite thing so far this week, good job Tomtom

You know, back in the day, we just called it "the day" and it was full of drivel then too. You know, you're right Bug, just check out these stupid sport climbing TRs like this or this or this! And all that dilettante tutu wearing sport dancing is from just this last week. Bug, I'm so sorry that the sport weenies ruined this site AND peed in your extra fiber bran flakes.

exactly

Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder.

Thanks for sharing, I was just thinking the other day that Mischa's old online topos must be out of date since that area has been reopened. As noted elsewhere, folks should be aware that you're not supposed to leave draws or fixed ropes here, the National Park Service is watching.

Pfft, we used to drop that rig in boy scout canoes all back in teh day 'n shit.