bigwalling
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Everything posted by bigwalling
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[TR] Mt. Garfield- Infinite Bliss 5/15/2004
bigwalling replied to Adventurewagen's topic in Alpine Lakes
even drunken midgets can climb A2!!!!!! Not sure how a midget would fair on a pitch I would have to topstep on! Maybe some cheatstick time or super long hammer. -
No, not trying to get free cam hooks, I have enough of those anyways. I just really like the looks of old hangers. My wall in my bedroom is pretty boring right now except for the Half Dome poster. Or maybe they'll end up protecting some slab climbing while trying to get to some aid seam.
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Put up a new route that was nice and easy. Lots of moss was cleaned and more needs to be. I also trundled 2 good size rocks like 80-100 pounds each. No bolts were placed, but most future routes will require them. It's on this section.
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If this is the wall I think it is I always wanted to check it out. Last time I was in that area was the fall and I didn't see an easy way to get to the wall.
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Aid Climbing Partner Needed! Sundays-weds free.
bigwalling replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climbing Partners
I might hang with ya sometime. But I can't get there till the afternoon due to school. That's still enough time to get in several pitchs on the lower wall. -
Anyone have old leeper hangers they want to get rid of? Or any other junky hangers?
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1,2,3 will cover the thin stuff. 4 and 5 are big but still usefull. I think on the last climb me and a buddy did we placed every size. Or maybe not I can't remember. They are kinda weird to remove. I bet they fix easy. But just yank up on them and then pull the trigger. At least that worked for the ones that were kinda stuck for me.
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This would take a while for me to write all that shit but I'll mention my favorite stuff. Ball nuts, hb offsets, modified talons, aliens, beaks and blades, and heads are always cool.
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is it okay to be truly critical of a shop here?
bigwalling replied to Beck's topic in Local Gear Shops
Didn't you bitch about this a while ago? Do you really have that much desire to live? -
Damn, this makes me miss training. I had goals to meet to! I messed up my shoulder, so it's all aid for a while. But I used to do weighted dead hangs. Most of the time with 2 hands, but I was starting to do it with one and lighter weights. I'd also do campus type stuff on all those edges on my hangboard. All I know is I realied on my fingers for everything, that was how I got up my hardest problems, which aren't that hard though. Now I'm really pissed I'm hurt.
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Hasn't Cole done the Force in yos? I think that is confermed V11. All I know is his problem looked hard and is hard, maybe not a V13 but WHO REALLY CARES. This is why I won't rate aid climbs I put up, cause in the end you just look like a lier.
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Wow, now that's a tall climber, now the weight seems a lot smaller. I bet you could drill a kick ass rivet ladder. I would call up Metolius, if they say you are too big, then that is a scary system. I think something is messed up. I hate the adjustable stuff, when everyone was raving about it, I bought some adjustable daisys. After about a year I got so pissed one day I wanted to chuck them off the wall. I could get it to realease easy enough. I now am back with regular daisys. But never did they slip and I weighted around 200 when I started using them. Anyone want to buy some adjustables daisys?
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That is messed up! My buddy doesn't have that happen. 230 pounds, wow, have fun on the #1 heads. I'd be scared out of my mind, I used to weigh 215, but now I'm 160. Hopefully you aren't physically able to lose that much weight! I hear Wally Barker is over 200, he's way badass aid climber, doing A5 at that weight is bound to be a massive freak fest.
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I don't own a headlamp, I tumble down upper wall trail in the dark. It sometimes hurts, but most of the time it's just an assplant into a fern.
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online alpine training guides?
bigwalling replied to Eugenian's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
I think Alex has one on his page. Not sure what his page is. -
Proabably Cole's problem at Goldbar. V13 or something, it looked pretty hard, I didn't even try.
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http://gripped.com/forum/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=8&tid=6609
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This is some funny shit. Pink V2, that thing is kinda fun. There is a cool V4 I think orange and white. Cool jump involved.
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That will be nice to bolt on the lead. 12 with a bolt kit and other shit. Sounds nice at least.
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Cramer, you have to know something? Makes Attractive Nuisance look easy.
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For aid Kohl and Gerberding. Many hard aid routes!
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I'd get a 70m. Pitches are getting longer and longer. But that is also mostly on really hard stuff so a 60m will work.
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That new aid route on Mt. Index. Was in one of the American Alpine Journals.
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Hmm, I saw you on this and would have sworn I had done the whole first pitch, but now I'm thinking not. Last time I was up there I wanted to do that little face with the head seam. I wanted to try it clean but didn't think it would go. So I just down climbed. I want to go back and check it out since this was some time ago. Not sure what to tell you about the regular route. Maybe I did the Narrow Arrow Direct or something. It has always looked very cool to free climb. I'll have to try it this spring, since someone has now raved about it. I sure didn't see ya talk it up in the guide. I do have one question for you colt. What was the person with you doing? Looked to slow to be cleaning. Kinda looked like you were instructing them? j
