bigwalling

i will be there all summer... this is the last thing i want to do! I will fuck my liver up while hooking instead.

ya, it goes clean no problem! There was a screw driver at the top of first pitch last weekend. I think... i have yet to find it in my stuff so maybe i was just too fucked up.

you can climb el cap... even if you havne't done a wall. Trust me!

i was on my way out there after school... but forgot a collet for my drill... so i went hiking to baring mountain.

Wow... i'm totally out for this shit! Wear a helmet wtf?!?! I don't wear one these days. Aid is so much better with booze. This guy is light!

i failed my first belay test years ago... i belayed like an aider.

dru... you mean you are really going to go and read that shit???

fuck that would be way fucked if true... but anything is possbile. My yellow alein got fucked up in a dasiy fall... it bent the metal part right below the top weld thing. I bent it back to make it work and bought another one. But it fully breaking... that seems unlikely.

nope not me... dragon is likely slimey as fuck on 2nd pitch.

or take a 50 footer and almost deck... no it is good climb, i just think the others are better! Ya it is good on cam hooks... Good 3 easy ones are, Iron Horse, Stern Farmer and City Park. That is a good learning day for sure. My learning circut was always had Iron Horse in it.

City Park is the least fun of all those.

was there to day bitch

that guide will work if it is the Cummins one

If you don't have brass nuts... some stuff will maybe not even be possible. I'm not sure tho. City Park is the worst of them all IMHO. High on the list is the Narrow Arrow route mentioned above. Here is a list of good ones. -Iron Horse ok -Arachnid Arch ok -10% ok -Stern Farmer good -City Park kinda lame -Narrow Arrow variation good! -Narrow Arrow Direct ok -Shirley good!

arch... do you mean south seas???

fuck that shit... chuck is nice and all but fuck

I use a single yates ladder which is clipped to a bent gate petzl spirit as is the daisy(regular style). I test a lot of times on the daisy. Offset... that isn't really a problem. I sometimes clip the second aider to the peice but a lot of the time I just stand in one. Adjustable aiders make no sense for real aid climbing, you have to climb up and down the aiders sometimes to test the gear, I don't see how adjustables would be faster. Please show me guys doing hard routes with these. I think you will be hard pressed to find anyone. With the yates you don't even have to look at your feet a lot of the time. Here is a picture of Ammon useing the same system... he is where i got the idea from.

I use 2 yates ladders on everything I do. I hate adjustable daisys too. So naturally I will never touch these adjustable aiders and will continue to think they are retarded. I've met a fair number of "good" aiders and they all seem to think they are a joke. How would this happen??? I always have the daisy attached to the biner. I don't know any really fast aid climbers using them. But whatever works for ya.

If any one wants a one way trip to the valley around june 10th i will be heading down.

nope, this one is way sicker than zenyatta. 3rd pitch of tempest. Jerry Dodrill photo.

ha, looks kinda hard

are you leaveing the sky hook as pro? On aid or free? I'm hoping free cause that is one long sling on it!!!

ya, bottom 2 pitches are all I've done... several times. They are both good and can be made into one pitch. There is like 5 fixed heads on the 2nd pitch so bring some extra. Would like to go higher sometime and replace the bolts. Opps I don't know shit about the one at smith!

RIP

i might be up for it PM me