ivan

word - i pretty much always do this - also since i'm a very large mammal i usually use 2 biners for increasing the friction which reinforces getting both ropes through the device and through a biner and onto the harness rappeling sucks (unless it's monkey face!)

preferably self-portraits i assume?

keg o' ipa to celebrate on the summit mayhaps?

gross

stay low - the moats on the other side of yocum's are apt to be quite large now - bring a helmet!

iain got nearly cashiered on it round this time of year a few years ago i seem to recollect - from out my window still appears alright currently but pretty much any route on hood is far more enjoyable done in winter or spring - this is the time for alpine roc goddammit! if you must have volcano shite then perhaps rainier is better rght now...

yeah - but yer so much less apt to have a sweet w/ em!

and art gilkey!

97% of all statistics are made up on the spot i solo plenty - but generally stuff that i've done previously and well below my limit - i won't die soloing but more probably while cleaning my fahqing roof drunk as a lord

friday at beacon anyone? perfect weather currently...nice n' cool for the Big Pump - afternoon/evening's alright...

stll closed as of sunday and wll reman that way at least another 10 days or so 'd wager - you can call the hood rver ranger staton f you wanna have a more offcally clue-less person tell you the same

but my question was would you do battle - not critque - there is no questioning our right to harsh on and use non-violent means to discourage behaviors in the international world that are reprehensible to us - as for the wife-immolation thang the british were in fact in the wrong in colonializing india and all the postives they did there were outweighed by the evils of commercial exploitation the positives were intended to justify - would india be right to subjugate our own nation in the interest of imposing vegetaranism on us? many there deeply feel the practice of harming animals horribly wrong...i sorta dig on sutee too as insurance against my wife fahqing murdering me - a more probably occurence every passing day of summer!

So if you had a daughter engaged in a divorce proceeding brought about by a husband who claimed infidelity, and you had to decide whether the case would be tried in a Western court, or in a court which enforced Sharia law - you'd flip a coin? Ditto for deciding whether a suitcase nuke would end up in the hands of a Baptist congregation in Lubbock Texas, or in a Mosque in northeastern Pakistan? Riiiight. so are you prepared to do battle w/ every culture that rejects our values?

charlie didn't get much r'n'r - he was dug in too deep or moving too fast - his idea of a vacation was a bowl of cold rice and a little rat meat - he had only 2 ways home - death...or victory

reminds me of the time the vigilant canadian border folk seriously tried sweating us for smuggling dope iNTO maple-syrup land - there's a powerful genius at labor for you!

same pile of shit i believe i saw sunday on the way down the spur and i wouldn't mess w/ dem prospecting-era beyotches climbers or not - might suppose me testicles were fahqing golden nuggets and fahq up the whole space-time continium

well - if chix in woolen dresses were doing it en masse in the 1880's and it scares you off you might as well hand in your crampons!

shiiiiiiit - you'd appreciate a good piece of prime-rib when you got one!

If you pay for the peak fees and transportation costs I'll aspire to climb K2, and I'll even let your "doctor" do tests and shit. big ditto on that - i'll even wear a dress for the woman role if harry's locked up the guy role

not nearly enough profanity for what would ostensibly be me grande bill! bottom line dad is the patriarch's of the big stone want to mantain the mystery of ths route - bring nuts and lotza draws - expect 4 pitches plus a long simul climb off - half the pitches are gear and the other half old-school sport - the last 2 pitches are full rope lengths

do the spur next - for the full experience bivi around 9000 and get a very early start so the descent's done befroe the sun softens up the route - tech difficulty is similar to s side - elliot has a lot of glacier travel so requires more diligence

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re: sunshine route - the current track goes up left of horseshoe rock (thus exposing itself to icefall off the upper elliot - about 30 minutes after running through the hundred feet of exposed area it was swept by an iceblock bigger than ron jeremy's cock - quite sobering) - there's a bridge necessary to get left of the horseshoe that very likely won't be there after this coming weekend and will require travel well off to the right of horseshoes where there are currently at least 3 other options for getting onto the ridge - might well only be the lowest still around if this heat continues for 10 more days we descended the cooper spur - great fun to cover so much of the mountain in one day - currently you can regain the elliot just below the middle icefall directly from the middle of the spur trail requiring only about 300 feet of climbing to return to camp below the snowdome

did the sunshine route last sunday and it was in fine shape and tremendously superior to the shit s side - do that instead and be sure to be high on the mtn by sunup as it's sloppy early

there are several tr's on this one - highly recommend you listen to matt's advice and do it soon! josh and i did it last year at the begining of august and fahqing died int he tremendous heat and from no snow on route to quench our horrid thirst - very fun but unless yer some mutant such as colin there's no way you nail it in a day - the descent was a bitch too and would be tre diffcult at night!