Alpinfox

Jeez!!! You are makin' me work here! The yellow dots are our off-route belay spots on the way UP. We rappeled further to climber's left in the large corner/dihedral system; the "shadowy area". The highest yellow dot was a bunch of slings around a horn. I backed this up with a piece of the stuck rope we took from the crack. It's a bombproof belay/rap station. One biner left there. 35m below this and off to the climber's right was the first bolted rap station. Two new 3/8" bolts with Fixe hangers and rings. About 10m below that was a single bolt. About 10m below the single bolt was another single bolt. We rapped off of that single bolt leaving a biner (backed it up with gear in the crack for first rappeler). 35m below that single bolt was another two bolt rap anchor. A 30m rap from there got us to a ledge about 15-20m above the ground marked "End of Rap" in my picture. I found a rusty, bent, 1/4 spinner there. WHEW! BTW: For some reason the changes I made to the above attachment weren't showing up on the upload, so I changed the file name and re-attached it to the post above. It seems to be working now. I'll attach it to this post as well for convenience, but they are the same thing.

From the highest yellow dot we rappelled pretty much straight down the large "Super-dihedral" on the western side of the south face. We were too far west to be on the SB route. I edited the above attachment to show where our rappel ended. Take a look.

Sizzy, See attachment. LFC = Left Facing Corner GAoBA = General Area of Bad-Assedness. The GAoBA is visible as the very steep (overhanging) white headwall above me in the rappelling picture ("Pax on second rappel"). End of Rap = Guess.

Actually, we only found three nuts, 5 biners (two of which we left behind on rappels), the rope (which was non-usable but I carried out), and four (usable) sewn slings. One of the belays had four spectra slings that were totally decayed. I'd never seen spectra slings that old/sunbleached. A couple were almost completely unravelled and looked like hair. I have attached a version of the above picture showing our (MY) poor route finding. Also, here is Marcel Duchamp's painting of the South Face:

Gary, You got lost on the SF of Prusik!?!?!? BWAHAHAHA! You should have made sure your partner didn't leave this in the car: And here is Alex's version (to save you the trouble of clicking back and forth):

and this from cc.com's resident "expert" on physics/chem too! Hey, here is an experiment. Put some water in your ice cube tray and wait for it to partially freeze (unfrozen water trapped inside an ice shell). Then get a needle and poke a hole into the free water. Put it back in the freezer. Thank you for allow ScienceFox to post.

Is the Western Mountaineering "Beothuk" advertised on the MEC website the same thing as the Ultralite? It looks the same. Why would they have a different name for it in Cannuckia? WM Beothuk at MEC

This is what I would get: Western Mountaineering Highlite. Rated to 40 degrees and weighs 16oz. Doesn't have a water resistant shell, but I wouldn't trust a dryloft (or similar) shell on it's own to keep me dry anyway. Bring a bivy sack or tarp. I have the WM Ultralite (20degrees, 1lb,11oz) and I like it, but I'd like to get a Highlite for summer. I've heard they are a little tight, so if you are a big guy that might be a concern. I hardly ever zip my bag all the way up in the summer anyway. Nunatak makes some really lightweight bags too. You can check out the WM bags and the Nunatak bags at Jim Nelson's shop www.promountainsports.com Marmot Hydrogen and Mtn Hardware Phantom are good lightweight production bags.

Oh, sorry I wasn't at the computer to respond to your comment right away, I was lounging on the couch and planning a climbing trip for tomorrow and the weekend. Sucks being unemployed. BWAHAHAHA!

Quit yer jobs and go climbing. SLACKERS UNITE!!!

OK. I'll handle not hiring the sherpas and arranging for the oxygen bottles to not be delivered to Katmandu. Maybe we can get Annabelle to join our expedition!

Is she free during the week and does she like to climb? Give her my numbah wouldja?

I don't know what I was thinking last night (), but Exit 38 is NOT an acceptable alternative. Who's up for doing an approach hike this evening to someplace with a view, watching some meteors, and then doing a climb tomorrow? It could be a mellow walk-up or something more technical. How about Ingalls Peak? Do I have to go solo?

There is always TOMORROW

Tomorrow (Wednesday) night there will be lots of shooting stars. I plan to be outside, in "the great wide open" watching them. It would be fun to do some climbing tomorrow to get ready for the show. Index or something alpine would be prime. Exit 38 or maybe even Snoqualamie Pass unusuals (what's out there?) are acceptable alternatives.

Boldly sucking the way no man has sucked before.

or a wolf telling you about a fox?

I don't think 007 will approve of those PAY TO DRINK establishments. Didn't you see his/her previous post?:

You heard wrong dirt-neck. The Alpinfox is in top form.

BWAHAHAHA!

Dude, That is totally not true. As part of my research toward my PhD in altitudazamazization, I lived on the summit of PP for a summer and I didn't see Wild Billy's grave anywhere, nor have I ever heard of him being buried there. Sheesh! Way to diseminate bad beta! You probably got 007's hopes up too. Shame on you.

LOOK OUT KIDS! THAT EGG DOESN'T LOOK STABLE!!! "The Vegreville Pysanka took two years to develop and was designed using the first computer modeling of an egg. " WHOA!!! High tech!

A not-so-close friend of mine's parents live in Edmonton. You could visit them? Just tell 'em I sent ya. edit: More helpful tips: I could also ask him what high school he went to and you could visit there... I think it would be a blast! Just pm me for details.

I have a PhD in altitudamization, and I can say that altitude has been known to last in da human body for up to 17 years. Fact.