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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. ?? How am I supposed to leave the belay? I dunno.... Ask Zeno .
  2. I'm probably headin' down to the crick in a week or so. What is the best guidebook available for the area? Anybody have one they would be willing to loan out? Any recommended side trips/must sees/must dos between here and there? Websites with good IC info/pictures? And of course, route recommendations? I definitely WON'T be climbing either of these : but these look SWEET!:
  3. OK. So if soaking cams in boiling water works, and if soaking them in white gas works, how about soaking them in boiling white gas? That ougta work REEEEL GOOD eh? Anyway, what specific brands of wax-based or graphite-based lubes have people used for cams besides the specially packaged (i.e. really expensive) stuff like Metolius cam lube? Where did you get it? Is the wax-based better than the graphite?
  4. Scott, Who took the pic? Is "Dan Hughes" a cc.comer? This is one of my favorite rock climbin' pics ever.... just curious.
  5. You probably just need some STOKE!!! See if this does it for ya. "This"
  6. Alpinfox

    F'n dogs

    The dog should be put down and the dog's owner(s) should be fined and forced to pay any/all medical bills.
  7. Woah.... well I guess we all had some "crazy college days" didn't we?
  8. Sweet Baby Jeeebus! What did you type into Google to find this gem? What kind of post-glasnost, Chernobyled, burning man freak show is that?
  9. MMMmmm..... Sugar-glazed pistons....
  10. Alpinfox

    8=D O Thread

    I think this cryptic missive has something to do with MisterE's plans for the Smiff rope up?
  11. Alpinfox

    PDX bar scene

    Pick up a copy of "Barfly" magazine at just about any PDX bar. Good reviews of bars/taverns/etc. Barfly It's been a while since I lived in PDX and I mostly hung out in SE, but I remember Berbatti's Pan as a good downtown music venue. Drink some PBR in the Lutz! Or maybe you are too somistophomicated for that?
  12. It's obvious to me from the tone of your post and your description of events that you are/were a pretty considerate guy. Starting up a single-pitch route when the team ahead is not yet finished would generally be pretty annoying because the first team would have to rap on top of the second team. However, in the case of Karate Krack where the rappel does not go down the route, this is no big deal. I don't think you did anything wrong, but if the woman seemed nervous/scared on the climb (shaky follower), I probably would have given her more space. Congrats to your wife on her first 5.10 trad lead!!
  13. Yeah, but not for CONTENT I bet. I wanna see the SINGLE POST that can get someone banned based on its own merit. Should be very entertaining. For any potential contestants, I recommend a quart of Cuervo as preparatory "research".
  14. This sounds like a challenge. Who can write a SINGLE POST that will get them banned?
  15. Hyponatremic goats: Can you find Catbirdseat?:
  16. Individual loops on a daisy are not very strong (some manufacturers list ~3 or 4kN). A modest lead fall can EASILY generate that much force. This would cause extension of the anchor system. Whether that "zippering" of the daisy would act like a screamer and dissipate some energy or result in the anchor pro being subjected to a larger force is something that someone with a better physics background than myself will have to answer.
  17. Boil some water, add a little dishsoap, stick the cam in there and work the trigger back and forth. You can scrub with an old toothbrush at this point. Might help. Rinse well. Lubricate with WD40 or silicone spray. That's what I do. It seems to work pretty well.
  18. A few other memorable outtakes: Cowboy W: "I know what those troops are going through! I watch TV!!!". _________ Lehrer: (question to Bush, something about North Korean nuclear weapons) W: "Look! Saddam was a threat!" _______
  19. Alpinfox

    Funny

  20. In a show of solidarity, and for the good of the nation, I will be urging all of my delegates to cast their votes for WILL STRICKLAND FOR PRESIDENT 2004!!!!
  21. I liked the part(s) where W just stared at the camera like a deer in the headlights... and then started talking about "messed mixages". Interesting that he still hasn't learned how to pronounce "nuclear", despite the fact that he puppets Kerry in saying that nuclear proliferation is the most important threat to homeland security. W made surprisingly few grammatical errors and only misused a few words. A marked improvement. A synopsis: Cowboy W: "vote for me OR YER GONNA DIE!!!!" Yalie boy Kerry: "I can't believe I have to 'debate' this ass-clown"
  22. I think the long length of a cordellete would make it very unwieldy and cumbersome to use as a prusik. Why not just carry a smaller piece of cord for your prusik? Or, buy a couple of tiblocs.
  23. I think the saying goes, "if you are having fun, you are the climber". Something like that...
  24. I took this picture about 24hrs ago:
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