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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. Voile split decision board on Seattle Craigslist edit - It's not mine.
  2. Here is a picture of Pandome from 1/22/04:
  3. Climbing is cool.
  4. I think I can out-gun you Klenker, you take that pic down and I'll take this one down:
  5. Hey isn't Hibox right next to "Three Queens"? I see two queens, where's the other one. Just kidding. Nice pictures guys.
  6. A couple of summers ago I hiked a two-week long section of the PCT down in California starting at the south end of Lake Tahoe and ending about 200 miles north near a town called Quincy, CA. Before heading home, my partner and I hung out in Quincy for a couple of days because it was such a cool town. We spent the night in a public park on the north side of town and in the morning were washing up in the restrooms when we spotted this guy who looked like a "fellow traveller". He had one of those BMW motorcycles that are made for road/dirt, a bunch of panier bags and stuff, and looked like he hadn't shaved in quite a while. I started chatting with him and he said that he was from Germany and had flown over to Toronto with his bike and started riding around North America. He had gone south to Florida, then northwest to Alaska, and was then on his way south to South America. His plan was to go all the way to Tierra del Fuego! I noticed he was hobbling a bit and that he had a bandage on his foot, so I asked him what happened. "Well, last night I was sleeping in my sleeping bag up on that hill (he pointed behind us to a small hill above the public park) when I woke up to find a bear biting down on my heel. I screamed and the bear ran off" I wasn't so sure about his story, but he pulled off the bandage to reveal a couple of puncture wounds on his foot and the next day we saw a little article about the incident in the local paper. Crazy. You meet a lot of "interesting" people on the PCT.
  7. Apparently not. quote from somewhere: Presidents Clinton and Reagan saw seven Cabinet seats change hands after they won new terms, President Nixon nine and Presidents Truman and Johnson four each.
  8. I think it's Phoenix Crack in Yosemite. First 13a ever climbed. FA by Ray Jardine, 1977.
  9. What is going on in the Bush cabinet? Are the large number of resignations we are seeing at the end of this presidential term unprecedented? There are only 15 department executives, so we have >50% turnover. Is Bush asking these people to leave so he can replace them with better ass-kissers or people with more extreme right-wing fascist (KK ) views such as his own? Or are they leaving because they are disgusted with Bush? Or do they just want to retire to Florida and play golf? What is going on? On the way out: Dept. of State (Colin Powell) Dept. of Homeland Security (Tom Ridge) Dept. of Health & Human Services (Tommy Thompson) Dept. of Education (Rod Page) Dept. of Agriculture (Ann Veneman) Dept. of Energy (Spencer Abraham) Dept. of Justice (Asscroft) Dept. of Treasury -probable (Snow)
  10. Sport: a locking biner on a good bolt is ideal. A non-locking biner is fine too. If you are really worried about the bolt, leave another biner on the second highest bolt in case the higher bolt fails. If you are really cheap, or have lots of time, you could put a piece of webbing through the bolt and rap off of it instead of using a biner, but DO NOT LOWER OFF OF WEBBING. The friction could cut the webbing. Trad: It's ideal to find a tree or big rock/horn you can sling and rap/lower from. Again, DO NOT LOWER OFF OF WEBBING OR CORDELETTE. Rappel only. If you must leave gear, leave the cheapest gear that will make a safe anchor. One bomber nut and a biner is probably the cheapest thing you can leave, but you might not feel comfortable rapping/lowering from a single piece. Do whatever it takes to make a safe anchor, even if that means leaving multiple cams. Your life is worth more than any gear (unless you are a republican voter) and that way you make the booty hounds very happy. You may be able to come back the next day (or the next year!) and get the gear, but the point is that you are still alive.
  11. One of my other talents is that I can do a great impression of "HAL" from the 2001 movie. I figure that would come in handy for idling away the 50 year-long approach flight.
  12. There are some great Xmas presents available at Target.com these days. Who knew they were so progressive!?!? edit: Damn, they removed it. The link in my post used to go to a listing for "Marijuana" on the Target.com website. I guess one of their web developers played a little joke. The description was pretty funny and it was listed in the "Entertainment" section.
  13. Hello sir, I would like to be considered as a team member for the Olympus expedition. My qualifications inlcude having once eaten (and enjoyed) a package of astronaut ice cream and having only a mild fear of enclosed spaces. Oh, and I've climbed some stuff too. Please advise me on the training regimen I should begin for this trip.
  14. I would think it would also be difficult to prusik past such knots. Probably not a big deal if there is only one or two of them though. I like F8's tip about a knot close to the climber to quickly clip to an anchor.
  15. The drytooling area in the Alpental valley is called "Rap Wall". It is above source lake at the head of the valley. There are four or five routes from M5 to Mhard. jja's picture from a few days ago: There is a picture of Roger Strong climbing there in the most recent R&I magazine although R&I messed up his name and said that Alpental Valley was in Alaska. Cheers.
  16. I camped on the mountain and enjoyed it. Saw a pine martin and did quite a bit of trundling . It was a nice place to hang out and I hoped we'd get to see some of the UFOs that live in the mountain, but no such luck. When I hiked the route in late June a few years ago, this gear would not have allowed one to get to the summit - it was too cold and windy. A decent insulating layer, warm hat, gloves, and good wind shells were required for the upper reaches of the mtn due to wind. I don't know exactly how much more driving the CC route requires vs the AG route, but my guess is 1.5-2 hours. I have "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" that provided servicable driving directions, but I don't have it with me right now. I think it's worth the extra driving.
  17. Go back to hippie land you commie!
  18. A -20deg synthetic bag must be ENORMOUS! Try doing a search for "Denali Gear" on this website and you'll find several threads. Griz is correct that there is a large temp and storm difference between early May and late May. For late May/early June, when most people do the W. Butt, A Parbat parka should be fine, but I'd definitely take a couple of layers to go underneath it. Any plastic boots with intuition liners would be fine and overboots would make them even more fine.
  19. So what is the quota? I trimmed mine down to < 50, is that good enough?
  20. I used to live WITH a volcano! Lowell, Thanks for the info. It was a great program; really fun to watch. I hope you don't mind that I have drawn attention to it even though I don't think you have anything to be embarrassed about.
  21. Thanks for the correction Mr. Klenke. Allow me to reply in kind by highlighting you're grammaticular error above. "DAMN IT JIM! I'M AN ENGINEER, NOT A ENGLISH TEACHER!"
  22. Had a hankerin' for some outdoor rock climbing. I guess I haven't admitted that winter is here and that I should be going ice climbing. Sat climbed at Royal Columns (Tieton) with Squid. A bit chilly and DAMN did the sun go down early! Enjoyed the swingin' nightlife of Natchez! Sun climbed at "The Cave" (Tieton) which is south/southwest facing, so we thought we'd have some sun and warmth, but it was a bit cloudy and chilly. Good stuff there including some licheny cracks that we top roped that weren't in the book. Fun! A pic of Squid on some climb at the columns:
  23. I was purusing the Seattle Public Library's catalog for climbing related items and came across a video called "Golden Horn". I put it on hold and within a week it was waiting for me at my local library branch. I just watched it and would recommend it to all of you. It is from a TV series called "Exploration Northwest" hosted by Don McCune and this particular episode features Gordy and Lowell Skoog making the first ascent of Golden Horn's north face with a camera crew led by Carl Skoog in 1979! It was really cool to see some of the gear they were wearing/carrying - EB's with high wool socks and knickers, 1st generation friends, etc. There isn't much information about Golden Horn in my first edition red Beckey, but it looks like a pretty cool peak in the WA Pass area, despite some crappy rock. However, it lists the first ascensionists as Gordon Skoog and Jim Walseth. Who is this Jim guy? Was he one of the camera crew? Why isn't Lowell and the rest of the camera crew listed? Care to comment Lowell?
  24. Files should be less than 100kb. You can open it in MS Paint or Photoshop and resize it. I hope when the gallery comes back the pictures will still be there!?!?? Last 25 posts search?
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